I just pulled a 2 speed Honda out of the shed to have a look at and get it going, I new it had had ethanol fuel in it when I looked at it quickly 6 months ago. Today I checked the oil which was very clean but I had to drain 650mm out of it before I could get it to stop smoking. Is it too hard for people these days to just Google how much oil to put in a motor mower or how to read the oil level on the dipstick, it isn't too complicated. Anyway I have a nice running GXV140 motor sitting here now, and I think the 2 speed might be working as well, it seems to engage ok. Bit of a win here
Hi AVB, I don't think people were this dumb years ago. People have so much information at their fingertips these days there is really no excuse for making silly mistakes like this. I obviously ended up with this mower because it was smoking like a bush fire. At least with me smoking up the shed every so often the spiders move out, they don't like it
I've been given a few mowers that were overfilled and when the owner gave me the mower they said their son has overfilled the engine with oil , so I think people just don't care about doing any maintenance they just use equipment and throw it away when it's a few years old ,I guess that's consumerism these days.
I've spoken to a few people that can't change a spark plug and don't know how to undo a bolt ,I don't think they want to know how to repair something when they can just buy new equipment .
What really surprises my Max is the disregard so many people have for Hondas, bit of maintenance and they will go for years. I pulled three out of the shed yesterday and with a carby clean all fired up with no problems. Much cheaper than buying a new Honda
Speaking of, I have a Briggs Quantum.with a filth ridden carby that was full of greeny brown sediment and foul smelling old petrol. I pulled the bowl off as well as the needle and float and shot cleaner through all the holes I could see. Made no difference. Motor refused to fire and only does so when you give a squirt of ether. I notice petrol oozes out the primer bulb as well.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
It was shockingly dirty inside. The jet looked clear when I peeked.
Thanks loads for the info and link. I was going to look into a new carb until NormK mentioned his dislike of the primer system. Unfortunately it's difficult to convert to choke as the primer is part of the filter housing.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Sorry MF, but it is easy when you have boxes of Briggs bits and on that mower I had fitted a new carby which ran ok but needed a squirt of starter fluid to get it going. I had just pulled all the choke assembly and carby of a Briggs that started and ran fine but was smokey so it was pretty straight forward
...on that mower I had fitted a new carby which ran ok but needed a squirt of starter fluid to get it going. I had just pulled all the choke assembly and carby of a Briggs that started and ran fine but was smokey so it was pretty straight forward
Sounds like I need to change it over to choke system somehow.
Here's a Briggs I've got from the 80s with a choke system. If it were to bolt on, I'd also need to fit all the plastic covers and fuel tank from the older engine as the filter housing is longer than the primer bulb housing.
It all seems too much trouble and I certainly don't want to spend on a new carby only for the primer not to do it's job.
Pictures showing the old engine and the mower with the Quantum.
Last edited by Mowerfreak; 08/01/2306:45 PM.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Hi MF, if you open the throttle, does it close the choke butterfly If so ok and you may be able to use the existing filter housing, just ignore the primer but then you would still need to get a new choke type carby The other alternative is to get one of the carbys Tyler put up and take a chance that it works
The main problem I have had with getting these to prime is the bowl lip being too high and bottoming out on the carby body before sealing the o-ring (hence the pressure leaks out before it can force fuel up the venturi. Test this by tipping it on its side and seeing if petrol leaks out of the bowl seal. Found this is common on chinese quantums.
I ground the lip down on a flat surface with sand paper and it worked
The other is needing 2x gaskets on the air filter housing and evenly torquing down the bolts progressively. The crap plastic housing warps and the air pressure leaks
The other is needing 2x gaskets on the air filter housing and evenly torquing down the bolts progressively. The crap plastic housing warps and the air pressure leaks
I guess the new carb comes with only one gasket or with non?
The existing one forget it as it has an 8mm piece missing. Maybe a call to the mower shop will be required to get the extra gasket.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
I'm guessing that 10 pack is about the same cost as a single one in a mower shop, or at the very least represents way better value than one or two at a retail outlet. EDIT: I was only going to go ahead with trying a new carburettor if the cost is below $20. Getting the gaskets will blow that out. Maybe it's just not worth it, especially as this engine is likely to be Chinese made, being on a Tornado base.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
MF, I usually give them a squirt of starter fluid and if it fires and sounds ok no rattles or bangs then I usually try to get them running. I probably have 10 Quantams here that I have test run and seem ok but all will need carbys to get them running again
I wouldn't spend money on these mowers as you spend more time fixing them than what they are worth .
I would make a gasket, the gasket paper 30 cm x 100 cm is around $27 on eBay and will last you a few years or just cut a gasket from a cardboard cereal box..
Out of hundreds of mowers I mostly never have to change a carby unless it's broken or worn out , the first thing I do is remove the bowl clean the parts ,if there is a jet in the bowl bolt clean that as well ,then poke some fuse wire up the main jet to clear any blockages ,no amount of compressed air or cleaning fluid will clear this jet sometimes only a bit of fuse wire or a oxy tip cleaner will clear a stubborn blockage .
Even if the rest of the carby is blocked up after cleaning the main jet and fuel bowl area, without taking the carby off ,the motor will run fine in full throttle position ,as long as the needle and seat are working.
If the carby is completely gummed up you may need to pull the needle out and clean the needle and seat.
To test if the needle and seat are working you turn the fuel on with the carby bowl off and hold the float up with your fingers if no fuel leaks then it's shutting off fine then move the float down and make sure fuel is flowing well into the carby then push the float up again to make sure the flow of fuel stops.
It's interesting just by cleaning those parts I mentioned and if the mower still doesn't run right on idle and intermediate stages in the carby but rums fine on full throttle ,just by using BP Ultimate 98 and after a couple times of mowing the lawns on full throttle the rest of the carby has cleaned itself out with the cleaning additives in the fuel and now the mower will idle fine and run fine in all throttle positions.
Most of the time I don't need to remove these types of carbies as I also blow compressed air down all the orifices as well and that's enough to fix them.
I guess if you can sell a mower for $100. that you got for free then spending $30 isn't too bad ,but I see people selling good mowers for $60 now and even a $10 to $20 old Victa 2 stroke will last a very long time.
