OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Question on Digging Equipment Rotary Hoes & Tillers Giantz tiller

This tiller starts easily using a drill but when trying to pull start it just lifts it off the ground. Just wondering if anybody knows if these have a decomp valve somewhere on them?

Hi Norm

Most dont - really does wonders for pull start longevity.

If it does it will be on the pull start side of the head facing upright

If its under about 66cc it wont have one

I bought about the last ozito 52cc once in the state for $52 on bunnings tier 3 clearance - I think i paid too much haha

To start it, you tie the throttle lever on, place left hand on top of motor to hold it down and start pulling.

Manual says dont hold throttle - but it will start 5 pulls with throttle or 15 without so I tie it open

Hi Tyler,
it starts easily with the drill but trying to pull start it it kicks hard and lifts it up in the air, pretty much the same as a mower with no blade carrier. I don't know how they get the extra spinning weight on the crank I might have to look at that somehow. The crank doesn't get any extra weight till you engage the tiller but I doubt that would make any difference. Maybe I could fill the starter cup with lead

Yep thats how my one is Norm, no reciprocating mass to help it. same with those 70cc '10 in 1' brushcutters sold on ebay - real hard to pull

If you dont get a decent speed on the pull it will lock and kick back

I had my homelite hedger kick back so hard the other day it broke the starter

I will look at it tomorrow Tyler , just thinking I might make a cup on the outside of the cup as well and fill that with lead, sounds easy but I will look at the idea tomorrow. If I can get a couple of hundred grams on it it should make a lot of difference

I will look at it tomorrow Tyler , just thinking I might make a cup on the outside of the cup as well and fill that with lead, sounds easy but I will look at the idea tomorrow. If I can get a couple of hundred grams on it it should make a lot of difference

G'day Norm and Tyler,


I would usually disconnect the spark plug lead and pull the starter handle a few times, this will tell you if it's kicking back from high
compression and not enough rotating mass or if the plug is firing before top dead centre and pulling the starter handle out
of your hand ,when it's a compression problem with not enough rotating mass the handle just stops when trying to start but
advanced timing will pull the starter rope back a lot more.

If it's more of a spark problem so the starter handle is not pulling out of your hand with the plug lead off then I would
gap the coil further away from the flywheel magnets ,this will retard the spark a little so it's not trying to turn backwards
when firing.

I've had quite a few newish motors kick back and when I check the gap on the coil to the magnets the factory has
assembled the coil too close to the magnets and it's made the starting a lot better after increasing the gap.

On some engines it may be worth putting a thicker cylinder base gasket on to reduce the compression but this will
effect port timing.

Cheers
Max.

Thanks Max, all good ideas I will give them a try

Added 214 grams to the underside of the pull start, opened the coil gap up and not the slightest improvement. It drill starts ok so I guess that is how he is going to have to start it. These Chinese rubbish things are just a waste of time even looking at, from now I will will just adopt the Ranchouse attitude, "don't bring that rubbish in here"

Hi Norm,

I guess you would have already checked that the flywheel key wasn't broken ,sometimes the flywheel is a
little loose on the key when you go to install the flywheel so I like to turn the flywheel to the most non advanced
timing position as possible then tighten the flywheel nut. The other way to do this is to grind down the thickness
of the key a little so you have movement or even remove the key completely and change the timing and see if
you get no kick back when starting and running then make the key fit in the best position that the motor works.

If you had an old spare flywheel you could file the keyway out to get less advanced timing ,but not worth
damaging the original flywheel if this doesn't work.

If it was a timing issue you could mark top dead centre on the flywheel and motor with white paint and
check with a timing light with the engine running or check with the timing light with the plug out and the
drill to turn the motor over.

I've seen a few motors back fire from a faulty spark plug or a faulty coil.

My neighbor has a 52cc line trimmer and he broke the flywheel so I gave him another flywheel and he broke that one too,
it turned out the starter would jam up when running ,so I then gave him another starter but had no
more flywheels that size. A lot of these Chinese parts are poorly made .

Cheers
Max.

Hi Max,
I'm not even sure how to get to the flywheel looks like a big job to split it just to see if it the problem , but to me it is a compression problem as it isn't really a kickback the motor won't pull over compression, not that it matters now as it has broken the wires in the pull start and at $90 for another pull start I have told the bloke to drill start it or chuck it in the scrap bin. I'm done with Chinese junk