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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
I just fitted a replacement carburetor and at first it wouldn't start, only firing up after using ether spray.
Then it revved too high at full throttle and then found it won't shut down.
The mower has sat in a damp shed without being started in years. Has that caused the kill switch to fail somehow!

How do I best adjust the over revving? The motor sounds good otherwise.

Here's a picture with it's new carburettor.

Attached Images
IMG_20221030_200511_copy_960x542.jpg (47.15 KB, 90 downloads)

Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,092
Likes: 81
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
MF, there is a plastic microswitch which I have had a few fail. I find taking the little rubber boot off it and spraying around the plunger with contact cleaner wile pressing it helps.

With regard to overrevving, look under the carby and back, there are 2x phillips head screws. ignore the one closest to the motor, but screw in the outer one - this will lower top speed

1 member likes this: Mowerfreak
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,092
Likes: 81
SENIOR TECHNICIAN

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
I have fixed the stop switch. I cleaned the connectors and gave it a spurt of contact clean in the gap between the button and the body of the kill switch module.
I also un bent a linkage that wasn't activating the choke properly, so it now starts without requiring starter spray.

Originally Posted by Tyler
With regard to overrevving, look under the carby and back, there are 2x phillips head screws. ignore the one closest to the motor, but screw in the outer one - this will lower top speed

I made the mistake of screwing in the second (black plastic) screw on the front of the carby itself and wondered why the lower revs raised, then re-read what you said and it finally clicked what you meant.
I used my electronic tacho for the first time since ordering it months ago and now have it maxing out at 3060 RPM. It must have been close to 6K before because when I first reduced it, I thought it was ok but was still too high doing 3700.

Engine now sorted. A very quiet smooth motor. Many thanks Tyler.

I had two V40s to choose from to work on but decided on this one as the other has leaked quite a bit of oil from the bottom (main seal it looks like) and all over the blade disc during prolonged storage.


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Below is the second V40 Victa. It appears to have totally drained the oil through the seal at the bottom.
Is there hope I can fix it by getting it running again? An additive like Wynn's stop leak perhaps, or is it done for without a tear down?

That's why I think it was thrown away. I did get it running when I first found it, but the carby needed work. Engine wasn't making any undue noises.

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IMG_20221107_124309_copy_960x542.jpg (109.68 KB, 53 downloads)

Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,653
Likes: 163
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
MF,
I haven't tried replacing the bottom seal on one of these but usually you can prise/pull it out and replace it. You have nothing to loose anyway.

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,224
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Hi MF ,Tyler and Norm,

I would normally sharpen a small nail on the grinder and hit 2 holes in the seal then use a slide hammer to pull the seal ,if
it starts to come out on an angle you swap the puller to the other hole in the seal to pull the seal out evenly .

Not sure were you can get cheap slide hammers these days ,I know Kmart sold them many years ago for around $10.

A self taper and vice grips may work to pull the seal out.

Cheers
Max.

Attached Images
crank seal.jpg (13.74 KB, 45 downloads)
slide hammer puller.jpg (13.09 KB, 43 downloads)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi maxwestern and NormK,

I'll see how I go. There's hope yet for the old anchor.
Should I attempt to clean out the carby or just replace it?


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,224
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Hi MF, just clean out the carby as long as it's not too badly corroded on the inside from having water in the fuel bowl .
Some of these I've had to dismantle the fuel tap and clean that out as well.

Cheers
max.

1 member likes this: Mowerfreak
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi maxwestern,

do you know where I can get a new lower crank seal for V40 as I can't find any listed on EBay. Carbs and starters are no problem.


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,224
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Hi Mf,

Bearing shops would have a seal or ring a local mower shop ,if you get the seal out and measure the seal size eBay should have the seal
or get the equivalent Honda seal from eBay.

Specifications
Description:Honda and Victa Oil Seal
Replaces OEM:Honda: 91252-888-003, 91201-ZG9-U71
Fits:Bottom Crankshaft Seal on models - GV150, GXV120, GXV140, HR194, HR214, HRM215 Harmony, HRU194 Buffalo, HRU195 Buffalo (China), HRU195D Mulch, HRU195M Buffalo, HRU214 Buffalo, UT215 Utility Mower.
Fits:Top Crankshaft Seal on models - GXV160, GXV160K1, HRC216K1 & HRC216K2 Commercial Mowers, HUT216 Utility Mower.
Fits:Drive shaft Seal on models - HRU215 Buffalo, HRU215M Buffalo models
Fits:Reduction Cover Seal on models - GX120K1, GX120U1, GX160K1, GX160U1 models.
Fits:Also fits Victa V40 engine models as the PTO seal.
Brand:Honda - Non Genuine,
Product Line:Seal, oil,

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/325363125509

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130611803434

https://www.hendersonmowers.com.au/...---victa-oil-seal-suits-selected-models.

Cheers
Max.


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