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#115960 31/07/22 06:05 PM
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
I swapped this nice mower for an old Villiers engine..... And a carb for my Pope mower...
Looks rough, but I will get motor going and put it on big wheel Victa.....
It's a 60's mower. two stroke.
Rattle gunned off top and bottom nuts today , and head. Rings Ok, bore Ok. bearings OK.
Looking for forward to fun and challenge.........

bit crazy? speedy

Attached Images
IMG_20220730_171629.jpg (160.7 KB, 166 downloads)
IMG_20220730_171714.jpg (124.51 KB, 164 downloads)
IMG_20220730_171645.jpg (154.34 KB, 164 downloads)

........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466
Likes: 143
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Does it have spark speedy? that might be a problem

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
haven't got that far yet.


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 637
Likes: 3
Senior Contributor
Early Pope mowers are getting so hard to come by. I'm sure you will get this one going speedy, but it will take time and a lot of work. I will post some photos soon of my Pope rebuild using parts from the early 60s to the mid-70s, and with a few repurposed parts from Victa, Briggs and Stratton and Tecumseh, other parts entirely re-engineered. Yep, I have finally completed this project. It took me 6 months!

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
Got the motor off base today, turns over, I sprayed some WD40 to get into bearings and past rings.... turned over a few times, didn't see spark, but I need to take flywheel off. It's an USA made Phelon FG 5152 magneto...Villiers used these as well.


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
Here's where I'm up to...................
heat. WD40. light levers....... heat wd40... there is no holes to put a puller in....... so I will let wd40 soat in under a bit of pressure... i don't to bugger it up.

speedy

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........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,050
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
It's usually easier to drill the 3 holes and tap them to 1/4 unc Speedy. 33. 3 mm from centre hole to centre hole

I also have one of these Pope motors but never had a chance to look at it.

I'll most likely convert my Pope engine to Honda electronic coil if it fits.


Cheers
Max.

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speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
Thanks Max, I'll do that.... too much risk of breaking something and it's all a good exercise......
cheers
speedy


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
speedy, see if you can work out where the coil is and try not to drill into it because the coil might be ok to use with a module and usually if you hit the coil it breaks the drill bit

Joined: Jan 2015
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speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
yes..... gently..
softly softly catchee monkey
speedy


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2015
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speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
morning Max,
why wouldn't I drill the holes in those raised pieces. It looks like that's why they are there.
speedy


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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi speedy,
you want the holes fairly close to the shaft to get maximum pressure on the taper. The further out you go the greater the risk splitting the wheel

Joined: Sep 2015
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Hi Speedy and Norm,

Some of the flywheels have a centre steel insert with the taper so you wouldn't want to drill into that and weaken the taper support or
weaken the alloy taper on the alloy flywheel ,the measurement is where the factory drills the later alloy flywheel and as Norm said
going out further could break the flywheel ,the alloy centre flywheel comes off really easily with the puller with the 3 holes.

The other way to remove them is to put the nut flush with the end of the crank then hold two levers that are levering on the
flywheel and at the same time hit the flywheel nut with a hammer.The motor must be off the ground to do this and is not easily done
by one person but I've done it this way a few times.

The drilling method saves time for the next time the flywheel is removed.

Cheers
Max.

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,050
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Not much alloy thickness in these types of flywheels when using a puller from the outer rim.

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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
I'll drill in correct position. Yes Max I usually use the two levers and hammer. But don't want to smash it....
I'm getting attached to it now.......
speedy

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IMG_20220807_140615.jpg (170.01 KB, 105 downloads)
IMG_20220806_170128.jpg (188.45 KB, 105 downloads)
Last edited by speedy; 07/08/22 04:19 PM.

........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 219
Likes: 10
Apprentice level 3
To use the inner holes as designed I’ve found it’s best to start with a thru tap (in 1/4”) and then move to a bottoming tap. The thru tap should only be turned through four turns or it will punch through and create an opening for gunk to get into the electrics. I apply a bit of rocol rtd during tapping which allow me to easily pick up the swarf with a rag.

I have a harmonic balancer puller that I use to remove the flywheels; the one I use is an older unit and is smaller than some of those commonly sold today. The bigger modern models don’t let the bolts get close enough together or let you easily use the 1/4” bolts.

Another thing is to apply penetrant to the thread a couple of days before, this helps a lot. The sleeve on the flywheel can corrode and bond with the crankshaft and the penetrant helps.

If I feel any resistance I back off straight away and use heat differential to help me out. I then choose to do the job early in the day as it gets pretty chilly in my workshop overnight and the whole mower is cold. Having put the puller in my deep freeze overnight I use my heat gun to warm the flywheel. The heat expands the flywheel relative to the crankshaft and the puller works more efficiently.

I haven’t broken a flywheel in a while, I’m much more cautious since early motors and spare parts got scarce.

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
Morning Ironbark, I have a Ford harmonic balancer puller as well. I have used it with 1/4 bolts on other flywheels.
I've heated and let WD40 run down crack..... a few times...... I'm not in a hurry.
There's not much data around about this old Phelon magneto.... but I bet it's the condenser.........
speedy


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi speedy,
and if it is the condenser just replace it with an ignition module

Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 637
Likes: 3
Senior Contributor
I thought I might have trouble getting my old Pope flywheel off. Believe it or not it simply lifted off in my hands. It is an earlier model than speedy's however.

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
won't come off. I'll leave it under pressure for a while.
speedy

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