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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,048
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Just looks like the puller having a coarse thread will give you less mechanical advantage Speedy.

The one I just used had a much finer thread and with the 12 inch shifter the flywheel popped off , I usually drill and tap
the holes all the way through but this one was not right through ,didn't even use WD40 ,the steel centered morse tapers
I will discard and replace the flywheel with the alloy centered one .

The GCV 160 coil should fit well on these engines.

Cheers
Max.

Attached Images
Pope z.jpg (91.95 KB, 150 downloads)
Pope z1.jpg (103.16 KB, 150 downloads)
Pope Z2.jpg (111.64 KB, 149 downloads)
Membership information
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
Tried a difernet puller today..... no luck, but left it under pressure...
speedy

Attached Images
puller2.jpg (192.79 KB, 141 downloads)

........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,048
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
I'd go back to the car balancer remover tool Speedy and just hold the remover tool with vice grips and then tighten
the bolt as much as you can or just use a rattle gun on the car balancer remover puller bolt.

I haven't broken one of these alloy taperd flywheels yet this way, but when pulling the flywheel from the outer edges
they can break.

The one I removed took a fair amount of effort on the 12 inch shifter when tightening the puller bolt ,they always
take a fair amount of force to remove the flywheel from a taper.

Cheers
Max.

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
yes I was going to go back to old ford puller.....


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466
Likes: 143
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
speedy, and when you have the puller tight, give the tightening bolt a hit with a hammer, that usually breaks them free

Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 637
Likes: 3
Senior Contributor
Must be like some of those old Southern Cross flywheels. They can stick there like they are welded. It will come free eventually and when it does it will let you know, although some come off more with a whimper than a bang.

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 210
Likes: 4
Apprentice level 3
Hi Speedy,

Try heating the flywheel with a heat gun or hair drier, that may help. cheers


"Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten"
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
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speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
thanks FG, been doing that.... today I held flywheel in fingers as mate hit nut on sharf with a few blows....... it's gotta go soon. There's a cam sleeve inside and a square pin that lockes all together, and some rust that has welded it........ soaking with WD49 heat . knocks
speedy


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
1 member likes this: FAST GRASS
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 219
Likes: 10
Apprentice level 3
I guess it probably doesn’t get that cold in Bundaberg but if you try it first thing in the morning when it’s coolest, freeze the extractor bolt in your deep freeze beforehand and use the heat gun on the flywheel that’d improve your chances of freeing it up.

They do get rusted on occasionally. I used to muck about with old cars a fair bit and found there was a crc penetrant product that worked a lot better than WD40. I can’t remember the specific label but I’d give rusty bolts and such a squirt every day for a few days and then found I had many fewer threads to rework and stud extractor kits were less frequently required.

The risky approach is to use an impact gun as that delivers shocks as it winds, risky because I’ve seen them pull the centre out.

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,048
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Originally Posted by Ironbark
The risky approach is to use an impact gun as that delivers shocks as it winds, risky because I’ve seen them pull the centre out.

The flywheel with the steel centre, tapered insert can easily get stuck tight to the crankshaft but even when the alloy flywheel centre
is corroded I've still never had one break .

I usually replace all the steel tapered centre flywheels with the alloy ones as they are much easier to remove and this is
what Villiers also did on their engines so the problem must have been well known.

Cheers
Max.

Attached Images
flywheel steel 1.jpga.jpga1.jpg (68.1 KB, 98 downloads)
flywheel alloy 1.jpga.jpga.jpga.jpg (77.48 KB, 98 downloads)
flywheel 1.jpga.jpg (73.24 KB, 98 downloads)
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 219
Likes: 10
Apprentice level 3
At least in our climate I think more advanced corrosion tends to happen when the mower has been allowed to get wet either through being left in weather or inappropriate washing particularly in seaside conditions. In any case, it seems that the more exposed damaged mowers have the steel “cast in” sleeve bond to the shaft when there’s been a solution to promote corrosion.

I had a ‘75 Victa I rescued from a beachside place where the centre tore out. That machine was perhaps the most corroded alloy-based Victa I’ve come across.

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 210
Likes: 4
Apprentice level 3
Hi Speedy and Max,

For what is worth the straight finned flywheel takes noticeably more power to spin than the curved one. It also pushes a lot more air. We noticed this when racing Kirby KAV87's etc. on karts, they used the same flywheels. For racing we preferred the steel centred ones as they were more durable when being "punished"

Love the Pope, keep up the good work!

Regards,

FG


"Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten"
1 member likes this: maxwestern
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
Well I bought a can of new WD40 penetrant........ I'll give a dose every few days.......
Here's an old pic for you FG

Attached Images
IMG_20220821_071442.jpg (182.85 KB, 89 downloads)
go cart Pope.jpg (92.81 KB, 89 downloads)

........................Keep your blades sharp......................
2 members like this: maxwestern, FAST GRASS
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
4 weeks , sprayed WD40 penetrant. Setup ford puller, heat, bit of pressure on the centre screw................ one almighty crack and it came apart, I wasn't even touching it.
Points were set to 48 th", so faced them with sandpaper and set to 20th". nice big blue spark..... not bad for about 57 years old
Cleaned them up, put flywheel on, head on and cleaned carb, made a gasket.....
I'd like to decoke rings and grooves, but they look clean. don't want to risk breaking a ring, but it looks like Victa 125cc rings would fit. A victa piston fits, but could not use because of the domed top.

I put one of those starter cups on, so I could start it with a rope......You don't have and springs to bugger up....... ha ha
speedy

Attached Images
IMG_20220903_103059.jpg (201.3 KB, 71 downloads)
IMG_20220903_103300.jpg (245.61 KB, 73 downloads)
IMG_20220903_103700.jpg (309.38 KB, 70 downloads)
IMG_20220903_141528.jpg (170.74 KB, 70 downloads)
IMG_20220903_141538.jpg (204.24 KB, 70 downloads)

........................Keep your blades sharp......................
1 member likes this: FAST GRASS
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
I just want to see if the motor runs, so I put it on a Victa base.Doubled the spacers. Had to drill one hole. It has four bolts. I wonder if those spacers and 4 bolts will be strong enough. It's a 125cc engine.

I have to make a muffler. I'll try to fit a B&S one I have. Do you think it would start without a muffler..... maybe a long pipe just to test it.......
speedy

Attached Images
IMG_20220919_154659.jpg (170.61 KB, 60 downloads)
IMG_20220919_155653.jpg (173.49 KB, 59 downloads)

........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466
Likes: 143
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Bolts and spacers will be fine speedy, but don't forget to put a blade carrier on it , kickback might be severe otherwise

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
I got the B&S mufler welded and the Victa disk welded to the Pope flat boss.
test run today. It kicked over and ran well. Let it warm up as probably had not for 20 years....
It blew some smoke. and the Zenith carb worked. The butterfly changed the revs like it should.
I messed up the camera so only got a short video.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/fPnI45mUJRo

Started it again to get better video and it looks like a spark problem, maybe a short .



At least she woke up.......
speedy

Last edited by speedy; 26/11/22 03:17 PM.

........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
I noticed the fuel line disconnected, and the disk nut loosened.... Fixed those and try again.
I ran but something is wrong.
I think carburation, spark and maybe exhaust backpressure........

I can check points, put Victa carb on, and put a tin can over mufffler to make more pressure.....
Anyway here's the test run
https://youtube.com/shorts/DVn8ioLeKYU


speedy


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
Tightened the blade disk, and took flywheel off to test spark......... spark plug nearly fell out.... stupid......
It ran ok, but a bit rough. I suspect the 4 stroke muffler is giving the wrong pressure to the engine......
Don't know much about that, but i know 2 stroke motorbikes can be really affected by the muffler.......


speedy


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 32
speedy Offline OP
Junior Technician
Test 6 with Victa LM carb...... Nothing else would fit. Still a problem, throttle movement didn't affect revs...
Just wanted to see if it would work.......
I want to get the Zenith going.......



cheers speedy


........................Keep your blades sharp......................
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