I have a power torque Victa. I was using it and all of a sudden, the engine stoped. I had no spark. I changed the coil and the ignition module. whilst I was doing all this, I rebuilt the decompressor and cleaned out the carburettor and changed the starter o seal. I now start it and smoke comes out from the decompressor as it starts.
It retracts as go to start it and almost breaks my fingers and cannot start it.
I had the disc on but then I took it off and tried to start it and it was the same. my fingers still feel numb and sore. How does the blade disc effect the starting. I am thinking it is to do with the flywheel timing but not sure.
It is the extra weight it needs to get it spinning and yes it takes some time for your fingers to stop hurting, we have all been caught out over the years
thank you. is there any way to put the disc on. I would usually line up the nut with the blade boss and tighten it. I really doubt the flywheel has moved so it must be the disc.
Flywheel can't move it has a flat side on it, the disc must be tight, the washer must fit on the lugs on the blade boss and then the nut tightened up. Can you get it tight enough without a rattle gun, I'm not sure, never tried. Others here may know if you can
Either that or take off both blades and rig up a brace that fits the blade carrier using a piece of wood and two bolts in the position of the blades. Get a long ring spanner, (I use one from the tractor tools) and you can use your foot on the spanner and pull back on the piece of wood. Works a charm.
Thanks everyone. I will put on the blade disc. Is there any specific way it needs to be on in relation to the piston timing position as the disc is oval. Thanks
This is maybe something to do with the ignition coil orientation as I had customer who asked for suggestions through our Not Allowed online enquiry with the same issue after he replaced with PT ignition coil it kick back when started. Try to change the orientation of coil or try with old used ignition coil and original used ignition module if it does same thing.
CM
Last edited by Bruce; 09/03/2207:27 PM. Reason: Advertising Breach
I suppose I can’t blame you for trying to plug your business but it looks a bit poor form to me. Especially as Norm has already provided the most likely issue and your reply acts like the thread was terra nullius.
I just fitted the blade disc and no kick back. it started but ran rough and then would not start. I still have a spark on the spark plug. I have been looking at the carbs master and will be rebuilding the carburettor properly. I have never worked on power torque engines or g4/LM carburettors before. learning as I go. the videos are helpful however the coil has nothing to do with it as it only goes in one way and you set the depth. the blade disc can go in any way and the orientation does not matter as Norm had told me and as I tried it out today. This only leaves me to rebuild the carburettor.
The most important thing with the carby is the float needle, don't waste time with the plastic ones, you must use a viton tipped one. The float needle is 90% of the carby problems
In your efforts to rebuild the carby, remember that service part CR03773A is designed as a whole unit replacement for the carby. Consider the cost of the entire replacement vs trying to work with what you have. Please don't misunderstand, we're all about that service life and replacing the $2 O ring and fixing things, but consider that it may take several parts, several tries, and that may still not resolve the issue, and you may then bite the bullet and buy a new carby, which also may not resolve the issue because the issue was something else that has been missed. So just consider your options
I rebuilt the carburettor. It still won’t start however no kick back. The compression is 79 so probably why it won’t start. They should be 100psi to start shouldn’t they?
I have a new set of 160cc rings. What would be the best way to change the rings to fix it. On the old ones you would just in bolt the head and pull out the block. It looks like the whole engine needs to be pulled apart to replace the rings.
dmitr 79 psi is good if using the tester with the longer rubber tube ,I have had tons of mowers that run at 50 psi. From memory the short tester will be about 10 psi more. I've seen a lot of mowers that people use until they are down to 40 psi and had mowers run for 10 years at 50 psi as long as the bore and rings aren't scored.
I usually run them on start ya bastard and if it runs then it must be a carby fuel related problem ,if it doesn't run on starter fluid it's spark or crank seal problem or blocked muffler or port.
I usually make sure the 3 starter bolts aren't loose because if they are loose the crankcase can leak.
There are 2 seals that must seal on the starter ,one is the starter housing large o ring ,the other is a seal in the centre of the starter then a bearing seal under the motor.
One way of checking if the crankcase seals are leaking is a Vacuum test.
Some times when the crank seals are bad you can put some oil in the plug hole then replace the plug ,spin the motor over and oil leaks onto the outside crankshaft near the blade plate ,a little difficult to see with a powertorque motor as the flywheel is in the way and is why a leak down test would be better.
If I want to rule out the decompressor valve as a problem I would remove it and put a spark plug in the hole for testing.
