Need help?


Search OutdoorKing by entering Key Words Below



Who's Online Now
0 members (), 388 guests, and 64 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Online Spare Parts


Online Store


Newest Topics
666 The Beast
by maxwestern - 24/06/24 10:19 PM
Four(4) Ring Main Jet Availability
by Jeffery - 20/06/24 11:36 AM
When did China start making PT engines for Victa?
by Jeffery - 18/06/24 02:12 PM
What Colour Was the Old Power Torque Mufflers?
by Jeffery - 16/06/24 08:30 AM
Victa Pro 550 Mulch
by Jeffery - 26/05/24 07:43 PM
Husqvarna Rancher 50 Oil Vent
by MowingManiac - 18/05/24 11:23 AM
Victa: The Triplets
by Polybus - 13/05/14 08:28 PM
Topic Replies
666 The Beast
by maxwestern - 24/06/24 10:19 PM
Identifying Victa Carby Jets
by maxwestern - 22/06/24 12:59 AM
Four(4) Ring Main Jet Availability
by maxwestern - 21/06/24 05:54 PM
What Colour Was the Old Power Torque Mufflers?
by bigted - 20/06/24 11:03 PM
When did China start making PT engines for Victa?
by maxwestern - 19/06/24 10:06 PM
Husqvarna Rancher 50 Oil Vent
by MowingManiac - 07/06/24 01:05 PM
Victa Pro 550 Mulch
by Bruce - 03/06/24 11:01 PM
Victa: The Triplets
by maxwestern - 30/05/24 10:40 PM
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Hop To
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
Novice
Hi everyone, I am having a few issues with the carby on my 1968 New Utility with the 160cc engine.

I'm new to the world of Victa so would appreciate any advice.

The mower was running well but after a few hours of use would not start. I have confirmed it has a good spark (and new spark plug) so have assumed it is a fuel issue.

Anyway I removed the carby and found the float bowl gasket has deteriorated, so a new gasket is definitely required. The tickler is also leaking fuel out of the bleed hole? No amount of jiggling will stop the fuel flowing.

Some photo's attached for reference.

So my questions:

1. Is this a G2 or G3 carby? (The metal governor vain suggests G2 so I have read?)
2. All of the parts diagrams I have found online show a pin holding the float and needle in place - my float has no such pin. Does the float and needle look to be the correct version?
3. What is the correct part number for float and needle for this carby?
4. The tickler does has a (broken) rubber o-ring on the outside under the spring, however I can not understand how that would effect the tickler leaking from the bleed hole.
5. Is it possible that the leak is being caused by the old damage bowl gasket not sealing correctly?

Thanks all for any advice.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 542
Likes: 13
wce Offline
Qualified Senior
Hi Tomkatoz

Most likely cause is the float needle not seating correctly allowing an unrestricted amount of fuel into the bowl.

Cheers
wce

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 542
Likes: 13
wce Offline
Qualified Senior
A less likely cause is the float is no longer air tight and is sinking in the bowl, it will have fuel visible in it if that's the case. Hold it under in a jar of water and check for air bubbles.

Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
Novice
Thanks I checked the float and all is OK.

The needle just sit very loosely in that small bracket on the float - does that sound right or are typically a firmer fit?

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 542
Likes: 13
wce Offline
Qualified Senior
They are not a tight fit, the problem is usually at the other end of the needle which shuts the fuel flow off. Looks like there might be a build up of gunk on the needle and body, give it a clean off and check the needle end for wear, clean out where the needle goes in and clean the seat as well, make sure the needle can move freely, sometimes that will fix the issue. I'm sure one of the other members with a lot more experience on these carbs will chime in on this one.

Cheers

Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 80
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi wce and Tomkatoz

Firstly, I will say that twice I am reassembled these and somehow jammed the float in a partly downwards position, so maybe thats the problem

As wce has said, I would be looking at the needle or needle seat. First, get a bit of light valve grinding paste (or even a bit of copper anti seize if thats all you have) on a q-tip cotton ear bud and push it up the hole the needle goes up. When it bottoms out, apply light pressure and spin the qtip back and forth. You are lightly lapping the seat and will clear it up.

Then spray out with degreaser and clean cotton bud. Now reassemble without the bowl and apply light pressure to hold the needle valve shut. It should hopefully not be leaking.


These parts are starting to get a bit scarce, I would personally do an order from Bruce at ODK as he still has all the parts.

A needle https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/engines...re-parts/victa-g3-needle-cr03265-cam1739
A needle Seat https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/engines...rts/victa-g3-needle-seat-cr03282-cam1740

A jet o-ring https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/engines...rts/victa-fuel-tap-o-ring-ha25048-ptc807

Bowl gasket https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/engines...ets/victa-g3-carby-bowl-cr03269a-140-063

Note the fuel tap oring is same as the jet one.

The jet o ring being perished will mean it sucks air past instead of fuel up the main jet

Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
Novice
Thanks Tyler for the helpful info.

New needle seems to have worked however fuel now weeping very slightly from the tickler, leading me to believe the ticker itself isn't sealing correctly.

The spring seems fine with plenty of tension on the tickler stem. Should there be an o-ring in the ticker seat? There doesn't appear to be anything inside the seat there - only the washers on the outside under the spring.

The engine briefly fires but then dies on first pull as I suspect the carby is flooding due to the fuel weeping through the bowl?

Lastly how are the jets removed from the body of the carby - they appear to be a push in fit?

Thanks for your help.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by tomkatoz; 20/11/21 02:16 PM.
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
G'day Tomkatoz , wce and Tyler

This Carby is a G2 ,normally not worth fixing as the metal flag is heavy and wears in the shaft and the governor
gears strip,mostly all got replaced years ago with the G3 but even now people recommend replacing the barrel and carby to G4.

https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/identify-victa/victa-70-80-series/

I personally would not bother fixing the G2 ,I would just buy another mower for parts with a G3 or G4, people
are always giving them away.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hillarys/lawn-mowers/victa-corvette/1285227210

You can repair the G2 but for the time and cost you may as well update the carby for free.

Cheers
Max.

Attached Images
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
Novice
Thanks Max.

Sounds like it could be the way to go. Do the G4's fit direct on the old engines? (mine's a 1968)

Last edited by tomkatoz; 20/11/21 04:21 PM.
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 164
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Originally Posted by tomkatoz
Thanks Max.

Sounds like it could be the way to go. Do the G4's fit direct on the old engines? (mine's a 1968)

You have to change the engine barrel for one that takes the G4/LM carby. NormK a member here, made an adapter to fit them on at one stage.
The G4/LM is so prolific and simpler to dismantle and rebuild with far less parts.


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 151
Likes: 4
Apprentice level 2
Hi Everyone,

I think I come up with prototype for G2 G3 carburetor needle which really works great. With the original plastic needle, no matter how hard I push the float in and using a leak detector gauge, still leaks air and gauge needle drops. With the prototype nitrile rubber tip needle fitted with brass bushing, even a slight push, pressure holds at 15psi without movement of pressure. I hope everyone will support my new prototype LM/G4 needle lever which will be out on the market early next year.

CM

Attached Images
IMG_20211120_211357.jpg (148.77 KB, 77 downloads)
IMG_20211120_210844.jpg (145.61 KB, 77 downloads)
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
G'day Tomkatoz , wce , , Mf and Cm

Depending on what barrel you are using would require an adaptor or not for using the G4 / LM carby,

I think the plastic manifold flange connector can be stuck on with JB Weld.

Back to the G2 tomkatoz ,I would first check if the flag shaft is excessively worn by trying to push the flag from side
to side ,if there is movement this can cause the gears to strip or disengage meaning no throttle control. ( like in the pic below)

If the carby is still leaking out the primer shaft or overflow orifice then the needle and seat are not shutting off,
the primer rod could be corroded causing the shaft to not fully seat up the shafts hole ,you may need to
clean the primer shaft or work it free with wd40.If this is the problem like in the pic below the stuck primer rod
stops the float rising to turn the fuel supply off.

I would also blow through the two main jet supply ports just to know there are no blockages.

To test if the needle and seat work you should be able to blow air in the fuel line connector
while holding the needle in with your finger or a small screw driver if air is blowing through
then the needle and seat are leaking and need replacing.

If the governor gears are not working ,the cheapest option would be to replace the carby.

Cheers
Max.

Attached Images
G2 a11aa.jpg (52.89 KB, 71 downloads)
G2 a11.jpg (52.53 KB, 72 downloads)
G2aaaaaaa.jpg (95.25 KB, 73 downloads)
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 49
Likes: 8
Novice
Hi Carbymaster-
When your new metal G3 needles come out, I would definitely buy at least 4 of them, as I have a number of G3 carnies with the old plastic needles in them.
Although the plastic needles on G3 carbs work OK, new metal ones would probably prevent failure in the near future.
Regards
Kirk ( twostroker)

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 164
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Wouldn't the market be limited. I can understand developing this for the G4/LM as there are still plenty out there inv everyday use and this provides (or attempts to) a way to make the two stroke Victas a more viable preposition to keep on the road instead of giving up on them due to a needle.
Doing one for a G3 is getting in boutique territory.


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 49
Likes: 8
Novice
Hello Carbymaster
I would be interested in your metal nitrile tipped G3 needle valves when they’re available. Can you advise as to how they will be made available to the public?
Here’s hoping your invention sells to a lot of Victa enthusiasists.

Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 151
Likes: 4
Apprentice level 2
Hi 2stroker,

Mowerfreak is right. There is no much G2 and G3 engines on the road unlike the LM/G4 engines. To get this needle manufactured, I need to order 1,000pcs. The metal needle that I used to replace the plastic needle for G3 is a standard Tilotson needle which is straight replacement and pretty much the same dimensions except I have added a 5mm copper bushing. You can also used the spring that comes with it. We have this needles.

CM

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,467
Likes: 143
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Max,
The big problem with fitting a G4/LM adapter to the spigot type barrel is you need a lathe to bore the fitting so it can fit the spigot, not something everybody has access to

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
I'd forgotten how you did that Norm ,I remembered some JB Weld was used ,did the JB Weld work well ?
I see no reason why the JB Weld would fail.

Looks like the vacuum pipe is cut off the intake on the cylinder and the plastic spigot slides over the hole.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/101221/lm-carby.html

I guess it shouldn't cost too much to pay someone to machine out the spigot if you don't have a lathe.

Cheers
Max.

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,467
Likes: 143
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi Max,
not sure if the JB Weld held never heard from anyone that I had sold them to. Vacuum pipe is pulled out and adapter slips right on over the hole. I forget what temp JB is good for but I think it is about 400 degrees

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Hi Norm must be OK, I'm sure someone would have returned the mower for a repair if the spigot had came loose by now.

Original J-B Weld can withstand a constant temperature of 260 degrees Celsius or 10 min at 315 degrees.

Cheers
Max.


Moderated by  bigted, Bruce, CyberJack, Gadge, Mr Davis 

Link Copied to Clipboard
ShoutChat
Comment Guidelines: Do post respectful and insightful comments. Don't flame, hate, spam.
Newest Members
84Krus7y, djel, John - 400 Olympic, Spunti, Turbosparow
16,816 Registered Users
Forum Statistics
Forums145
Topics12,722
Posts104,683
Members16,817
Most Online2,545
Dec 23rd, 2019
OutdoorKing Showcase
20 Bucks from FB Marketplace
20 Bucks from FB Marketplace
by Return Rider, February 20
Victa Cortina 2 Shed Find
Victa Cortina 2 Shed Find
by Return Rider, January 25
My Rover Baron 45
My Rover Baron 45
by Maxwell_Rover_Baron, April 16
SHOWCASE - Precision Mowers - 2021
SHOWCASE - Precision Mowers - 2021
by CyberJack, April 14
SHOWCASE – Atco Rotary – Paul C - 2020
SHOWCASE – Atco Rotary – Paul C - 2020
by CyberJack, December 28
HOME |CONTACT US
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5
(Release build 20201027)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 7.4.33 Page Time: 0.053s Queries: 60 (0.042s) Memory: 0.7753 MB (Peak: 0.9030 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2024-06-24 19:18:34 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS