OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines B&S 80202-0839-01 ignition upgrade

G'day all.

I was gifted a Rover Thoroughbred 16" reel mower a few weeks back. It was running, but it hasn't seen a lot of love over the years, so I figured I'd give it a good clean up and replace some bits and pieces.

The engine is a Briggs & Stratton 80202-0839-01 (3 horsepower). I discovered that the HT lead to the spark plug had been snapped where it attaches to the coil, and had then been 'siliconed' back into place. I was originally going to replace the coil and retain the breaker/points ignition system, but figured it might be easier (and cheaper) to upgrade the ignition and get rid of the need for the points.

I am trying to work out exactly which part I will need to replace the original coil, but I am having no luck tracking down a part number. The part number I have for the original coil is 298502.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Greg

PN 591420 is the upgrade coil.

Greg, another thing to note (since the new genuine coils are quite expensive) besides aftermarket, you do have the option of pulling a used coil off of any general 148cc briggs, be it a vertical or horizontal shaft made between say 1983 (when they brought out magnetron) to about 2011.

All the ones (for example 3.5 classic, 375 sprint, 450 series, etc) all used that #420 coil from memory, and if you time it right you could probably pick one up free.

Note - Quantum is different

Hey Greg, Sometimes the lead screws into the coil. Try unscrewing it and put another lead in.....
might work.
speedy

Here is a link to the new COIL CLICK HERE

Greg-the most economical way to solve your question is:
1.Ensure your broken coil is good. Get a self tapping screw that conducts well, and screw it into where the original coil broke off.
2.Set a multimeter to the 20 k ohm setting and connect the 2 wires from multimeter to the screw and the earth wire from the coil. If unsure of earth, just use the shorter one.
3 As long as the multimeter gives a reading of about 8 or less k ohms, it should be ok, so you can use it. Hook up some thicker than normal wire to the screw, and tape it up/use heatshrink to strengthen.
4. Purchase an ignition coil. They are readily available online for about 20-30$
4 Install ignition coil in the well that held the points and condenser. Just cut the wire that goes to the breaker points and join to the coil. Bolt the coil to a hole so it earths. Might have to drill one in the stator plate.
5 put your coil back onto E core
Your engine now has electronic ignition.

Bruce I believe the OP was wanting to upgrade to eliminate the points and condenser.

As a side note if the coil presently on the engine is like the Stens 460-014 or the newer electronic Stens 7600-9001 coil, the high tension lead (plug wire) is replaceable; just takes a little work digging out the old lead lead. ON the two fore mention coils the down inside the wire connector is a pin in the middle sticks into the wire. All you to do after cleaning the old wire is use a little epoxy as you install the new wire. to both hold it in place and to seal it against moisture.

Also to note that new Magnetron coil require the flywheel to be spun at least 350 rpm vs the old points system speed of 250 rpm but produces a much more reliable spark timing.

Thanks AVB for the heads up.

Here is a link to a module that should work on the B&S engine CLICK HERE

Yes that would to replace the points. I use that universal ignitor on Kawasaki engines when their ignitors goes bad. It is also usable on the old cast iron crankcase version of the Briggs engine that have positive ground ignition systems.

But OP was refer to the HT (high tension lead , plug wire) being broken off. I said those are replaceable if the OP is resourceful enough. There are however some very old coils that you simply can't replace the HT lead due to design.

Tyler is right that most of the 2 to 4 hp Briggs engines used the same Magnetron coil and here there are tons of them sitting in scrape piles. They are mostly there because the mower owners were unwilling to pay for repairs needed and had opted for new mowers instead.

I can't even sell a repaired unit as most buyers are demanding for me to sell then for under $20 because they can go to any yard sale and pick them for that. To me there is a lot of difference between a good working mower and one that was cobbled up.