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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 164
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
I brought out this chainsaw I have used once since I bought it about three years ago as I needed to cut some branches. I found it had dribbled it's chain bar oil supply all inside the case in storage.

After cleaning up and putting in some oil, the engine struggled to move the chain (chain brake off) but loosened up enough to operate but the chain remains dry. What is the first thing I need to do to try and get the oil to do it's job. With my old chainsaw, the auto oiling failed in that but it had a manual oiling button. This does not.

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Last edited by Mowerfreak; 03/05/21 07:41 PM.

Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 80
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
MF, first thing I would do is remove the chain and bar

Look underneath and there should be an oil feed adjustment screw (sometimes not). Max the screw out, then start and warm it up for a few minutes then run it about 1/4 throttle.

Quite likely what ever is blocking it will clear out

Next step is empty the tank and fish out the filter and see if the oil has congealed in it

Unfortunately leaving oil in them is the worst thing for the saw since the added tackifiers in bar oil tend to set like sludge in some brands

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 164
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Thanks Tyler.
I found this also. Will take a look at those things and report back.

I remember with my old McCulloch 584, as soon as you pushed the oil button performance would boost immediately.



Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 164
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Pulled off bar and ran, only to find no oil oozing out the slot above the two bolts. Pulled out the pick up tube as you said Tyler, and no congealing evident, so pulled off the filter end and shot degreaser through the tube. Then blue compressed air through it and could hear air coming out the other end.

Tested again and finally some oil dribbled through while running. Did the cardboard test running the end of the saw just above and was able to draw lines of oil mist.

Many thanks Tyler as I wouldn't have known to check the pickup tube like that. Now ready to try and get rid of the Bougainvillea that's trying to destroy the roof and carport, as well as blocking the guttering.

PS how tight should I run the chain? It feels a bit stiff to move by hand even though I followed the 5mm pull away in the middle according to the instruction book?

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Last edited by Mowerfreak; 04/05/21 04:13 PM.

Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 80
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
No worries MF

With regard to chain tension, I personally like to tension so that if I pull down a chain tooth in the middle of the bar and get it out of the guide bar up to the 'notch' in the drive link with a reasonable force without really yanking on it.

Then check every 10 minutes or so as it will heat up and stretch. Then when you finish, relieve tension as it will tighten up when it gets cold.

Since my saws will see a full day up to 2 days use, then packed away for 2 months or more, which is probably what yours does as well judging by condition, I drain petrol and bar oil, remove side cover and get all the wood chips out, check the oil port is clear, remove the chain and run a piece of wire and spray degreaser down the bar groove to ensure the oil port in the bar isn't clogged.

Sharpen the chain, and grease the sprocket tip, check air filter.

Reassemble and stick a nice wad of paper towel at the bottom around the chain to absorb the 50ml or so of oil that will end up leaking out.

Then next time you use it, its just fuel and oil, flick the paper towel out, check chain tension and off you go

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