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Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
avp Offline OP
Novice
Hi Folks,

I'm tearing down a Scott Bonnar 45 17 inch Twin Rail with the Kirby H4-5A engine (assume this is the same as the HK25 and H30 models). The mower was working when I purchased it a few weeks ago, but I specifically purchased it as a restoration project. It had a new carby but everything else was (or seemed to be) original.

I have already read through a couple of the Kirby engine rebuild threads on this site and downloaded all the manual's for everything from the other threads.. So a huge thank you to those that have traveled this path before me (and I am just a novice).

I'm up to removing the fly wheel (see attached pic). I have removed the hub starter cover and nut, but the actual fly wheel doesn't want to just slide off. Do I need a special tool to remove or just use more force.

Also on the flip side of the engine I assume I have to drill out the oil seal as well. See second image attached.

Anyway, appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
AVP

Attached Images
Fly Wheel.JPG (61.13 KB, 160 downloads)
Oil Seal.JPG (58.69 KB, 160 downloads)
Membership information
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 80
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Those Kirby flywheels have been amongst the hardest ones I have ever had to remove. I used a 3 legged puller on one and I was at the point of being scared to tighten any further when it let out this massive bang and came off the taper.

A bit of penetrene soaking in won't go astray, though a taper being a taper, if it wants to hold to the bitter end it will

Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
avp Offline OP
Novice
more lube it is...

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 137
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
G'day avp and Tyler

Yep those flywheels can be a problem to remove , I made a puller assembly to remove them ,I have one flywheel
that was drilled with 2 opposing holes then a steering wheel type puller was used but the holes were close to the centre
but not into the steel centre, these flywheels are easily broken if they are stuck tight..

The crank seal I prefer to hit a small sharpened nail into, than drill, that way no swarf will find it's way into
the motor then i use a slide hammer with a self tapper to pull the seal out ,punch a couple holes opposite
one another to pull the seal evenly.

Cheers
Max.

Attached Images
IMG_20210422_183814_481aaa.jpg (77.87 KB, 143 downloads)
IMG_20210422_183740_360aaa.jpg (62.1 KB, 142 downloads)
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
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avp Offline OP
Novice
Thanks folks for the tips. Today I have managed to get everything off without breaking anything.

Now for the cleanup job.

Will post some photo's once I've cleaned it all up.

Cheers.
avp

Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
avp Offline OP
Novice
Hi Folks,
Been a learning curve for me.
Managed to clean up the engine so far and had it powder coated. Then I spent some time finding all new screws, bolts and nuts to make it look brand spanking new.
I've attached a few before and after shots, but really happy with the way it looks. I've just found a replacement oil seal so almost ready to pull the handle and fire it up.
Still a bit unsure of how the governor works with the piece the comes back out the engine case and attaches to the governor lever. Is there any special way the cover cylinder goes back on. How does that Governor gear interact with the metal bit inside the engine?

Anyway here are some photos

Cheers

Attached Images
20211010_172242.jpg (74.63 KB, 102 downloads)
20211010_172230.jpg (55.33 KB, 101 downloads)
20211010_172253.jpg (59.62 KB, 102 downloads)
20211010_172318.jpg (61.75 KB, 103 downloads)
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
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avp Offline OP
Novice
Also how do I replace the bearing in these parts?
Large inter sprocket assembly (has some sort of pin in it). Do I just use pliers to yank it out?
and the bearing in the inter adjustment bracket assembly and small inter sprocket assembly

pic attached

Attached Images
20211015_165954.jpg (31.34 KB, 98 downloads)
20211015_165959.jpg (47.41 KB, 98 downloads)
20211015_170028.jpg (19.86 KB, 99 downloads)
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 49
Likes: 8
Novice
Hi AVP
I have a Kirby Tecumseh KAV 74 that was totally in a shambles when I found it, and spent 12 months off and on restoring it. Runs like new now. Had exactly same flywheel as your pic.
I bought a steering wheel puller from Repco ($40 approx), drilled 3 holes where the 3 lumps are on the flywheel, then tapped thread into them, and pulled it off with the puller. Came off with a bit of a shock, but was ok. They are fairly tight first time around.....
The metal is fairly soft-can pretty much just thread the 3 bolts you are going to use to pull it straight into the Aluminium. I didn’t even need a proper tapping piece.

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 137
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Originally Posted by avp
Also how do I replace the bearing in these parts?
Large inter sprocket assembly (has some sort of pin in it). Do I just use pliers to yank it out?
and the bearing in the inter adjustment bracket assembly and small inter sprocket assembly

One easy way to remove the bearings is to block the hole in the other side of the bearing with a bolt
that is a snug fit ,preferably without the thread on the bolt ,if the bolt is under size (loose fit) then some
insulation tape can be used around the bolt until it fits the hole snug.

Then fill the bearing hole with grease and use a rod or bolt that is a snug fit in the bearing ,use insulation
tape if you are using an undersized bolt ( shaft) then hit the shaft with a hammer and when the bearing moves
put more grease in and hit the shaft in again.

The orange shaft to block the hole in the pic below would need to be facing the ground when attempting
the removal of the bearing to stop it from being dislodged.

The roll pin ,you could try removing it with long nose pliers avp ,if that doesn't work I would snap it off with a pin punch
and then use a round file if any bit of the pin is still sticking out.

Another way would be a slide hammer but you will need a big bench vice or a pilot bearing puller .

Cheers
Max.

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Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
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avp Offline OP
Novice
Thanx folks...that was a great help....managed to separate and replace these bearings.

Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 1
Novice
Hey AVP just to drag up an old post. Where abouts did you source all the nuts/bolts/washers/gaskets etc from??

Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
avp Offline OP
Novice
Sorry for the delayed response, been out mowing me lawn...LOL

Classic Fasteners - 1/75-77 Grange Rd, Welland SA 5007

https://www.classicfasteners.com.au

Full range of all the old UNC/UNF bolts and screws etc.

I ordered them online and picked them up. All neatly zip locked in separate bags. If you are not in the Adelaide area, they do deliver.

Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
avp Offline OP
Novice
Sorry for the delayed response, been out mowing me lawn...LOL


For the Kirby engine I got all the bolts/screws/nuts/washers from

Classic Fasteners - 1/75-77 Grange Rd, Welland SA 5007

https://www.classicfasteners.com.au

Full range of all the old UNC/UNF bolts and screws etc.

I ordered them online and picked them up. All neatly zip locked in separate bags. If you are not in the Adelaide area, they do deliver.

Gaskets I got online rzpartssurplus (off ebay I think)
Tecumseh Gasket kit #33233,
piston ring set #27565

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