I've owned a 21 Anniversary model for quite a few years. Bought it used and in excellent condition but now the replacement engine (TWM QPVS11) that it came with is starting to give in. Lots of smoke, lack of power. I'm considering just getting another newer used Greenfield but perhaps replacing the motor is cheaper and it is something I would be able to do.
The question is: what do I replace it with? What are my options here that would slot straight in? The current TWM needed one or two parts to be slightly modified, but nothing serious. Do I have to buy a B&S? Are there cheaper options?
How would I find out about the bolt-hole distances and configuration other than measuring it up myself? Are they standard / is there a standard?
Hi Oli, Bolt pattern is standard Briggs and Stratton, only motors I have found with non Briggs pattern is the small 160cc Chondas and they have a bolt pattern all of their own, they don't fit push mowers and they don't fit rideons. Just go on ebay and type in vertical shaft motors and go from there
Would you know about the shaft size at all? is that a standard thing also? Am I wasting money buying a brand new B&S on an old mower like that, although - it's still in good condition.... no rust. Yep a - bit clapped out and very loose in the steering but still does my little garden (half acre) no probs. Perfect size for that.
Hi Oil, shafts are 1" on all the rideon motors makes it easy Nothing wrong with a Greenie keep it going for ever, Anniversary steering was never too flash, pretty primitive design but as long as you can keep fixing it they are a great tough little machine. Ok just had a quick look at motors, nothing much there at the moment, obviously stocks are right down due to covid might have to wait a while for them to become available, the 13hp Chonda motors were selling for $400/$500 and they seemed to be reasonable.
Well that sounds promising - keep that mower going.
I probably don't have the luxury of being able to wait for a chonda f they're not currently available. And then there is the question of whether or not they will fit under the bonnet without too many mods. Where did you find those - just on ebay? Would you be able to share a link?
I've just about got the motor removed. Just stuck on getting the pulley off the shaft now. I'll have to see if it will somehow just fit through the cutout in the frame plate and then remove it when the motor is lifted off. If that can't be done then I'll have a bit of a task ahead of me to slide the pulley off without having to remove the cutting deck. I've taken out the grub screw holding the key, and the bolt at the bottom of course, but it won't budge.....
Thanks again for your help. If you could zap me a link as to where you would go to buy a chonda, that would be much appreciated.
It seems that only the last one on the list has a pull-start backup option. In my mind this is essential - been using that on my current motor for the last few years after replacing the starter motor once and it then failing...
Help me out here - would it be silly of me to spend the extra $$ to get a Briggs? Delivered to me it will be almost $1K. At the moment I'm thinking that this will be better quality (??) and I won't have any probs getting it under the hood. Am I wasting my money?
Thanks for your thoughts - you make some excellent points. I'll have to keep thinking about it. Just love that little thing I have and it's just the right size. Anything larger would be overkill and couldn't get into the small places I have.
Hi Oli, You might struggle to find one with a pull start now, seems they are all ES. The other issue is the fuel tank, the Chondas don't come with a fuel tank and fitting one can be a pain. On one Anniversary I did (13hp Chonda) I made up a fuel tank from a piece of 100x100 square tube and fitted it right up the front of the bonnet behind the grill with the filler cap through the bonnet.It just clears the front of the motor. Works well but was a bit of work. Another tip when changing motor on these things is if you haven't already done it is to tip the mower on its side so it is easier to see what you are doing. Just remember if you go to the bigger motors you will probably have issues fitting the bonnet
Last night I ended up lashing out on a new 11.5HP B&S from smallenginewarehouse.com.au. They have them in stock, has pull start & electric, with fuel tank and is highly likely to just fit. I reckon that will give my Greenie another 15 years of life.
Thanks very much again for your good advice NormK and everyone. So good!
So, for better or worse I now have the new B&S ready to install. It will require minor mods to make it fit, but nothing too wild or unmanageable: hack a little corner out of the bonnet to make room for the fuel tank, move & bend the steering linkage a bit to get around same tank, mod the forward/back foot paddle which currently scrapes the muffler.
However, there are more cables coming out of that motor than I have connections for and there are no instructions to tell me what's what. Furthermore I am not 100% on connecting the throttle cable although I reckon I've got it figured out.
I looked high and low for a workshop or installation manual but to no avail. The operator's manual is next to useless for this purpose. I'm sure I'll eventually work out what's what but I'd love my educated guesses to be backed up by some manufacturer's guidance.
Would anyone know where to find such documentation? B&S 11.5 Model 21R877
Just thought I'd document some of the bits that had me stumped - perhaps someone else will save some time and frustration through my findings.
The mystery of the wires coming out of the B&S. Here is what I know:
Intek 344cc 11.5HP Model: 21R877 0056 H5 200915ZD
This B&S does not have a built-in rectifier, nor did I need to buy one. Instead it uses a simpler method of a diode on one of the alternator (stator). There are two wires coming out of the alternator. Both are AC current but one of them has a diode, turning the AC into a very simple & lumpy DC current. Use this one to feed power back to the battery! The non-diode AC lead is used to power the headlights (useless for me as I don't have headlights).
Grey - Carbi Solenoid (anti-backfire valve) to switch fuel on/off. Needs 12 V to open solenoid/fuel. Connect to terminal 'L' on switch. Black - Kill Switch wire - connect to ground via switch. Connect to terminal 'M' on switch. Red - DC from alternator/stator. Should have a bulge for the diode. Connect to battery via the terminal 'B' on the switch. White - AC from alternator/stator. This is for lights. I don't need this on my mower.
There is also a thinner wire from the starter relay/solenoid, activating/closing the relay so that battery power goes to the starter motor. Connect this thin wire to terminal 'S' on Switch. Of course the heavy duty wires from the positive terminal of the battery and to the starter motor connect to the heavy duty connection on the relay.
And lastly, the heavy duty negative from the battery needs to either go to one of the mounting bolts on the motor or to the chassis somewhere.
