Hey guys.. was wondering if some1 can shed some light on how to test the ignition module on a victa full crank 2 stroke? I believe the mower is 82 model and has the g4 carby
I have no spark whatsoever
Ive t disconnected both terminals on the coil and tested from spark lead to each terminal and getting a reading at about 6.5 kohms and between 2 terminals at about 1ohm (probably the resistance of leads)
Ive checked the connections in the carby and belive there is no issue there.
im thinking it may be the square module? Is there a way to test this? Also for knowledge... do both electronic and points ignitions have the square modules?
I have posted 2 pictures up to show which set up i have as i believe there are a few variations. Thankyou in advance for the help.... much appreciated
Sorry Charlie, I have no idea how to test the modules, if I don't have spark I just put another module on, if still no spark I change the coil. Easy for me as I have buckets of parts to mix and match. The modules for the full cranks are getting harder to come by but you can use a module from any of the millions of PT's kicking around. Points ignition does not use a module unless somebody has abandoned the points and just left them in there
NormK are the points and condensor on these side pull full cranks still at the top under the fan? I always assumed there wasn't any room under there but I can't think why not. I was just used to the idea they were all electronic ignition as all the SPFCs I've seen are EI.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
MF, I always move the module on the sidepulls to the top of the plate so that it can get airflow over to help with cooling, mounting it under the plate anf directly above the barrel was not the best idea, probably why they fail
Hi NK, MW and Charlie, on a recent scrap SP motor I found, I saw the under mounted chunky type module for the first time. No wonder Victa charged extra for this new feature as it looks like more of a big deal with the chunky unit. Full of surface rust. I replaced one that was already compact on another and took NK's advice and mounted it on top using a tiny nut and bolt instead of a pop rivet (my idea). I had to use needle nose vice grips on the tiny nut underneath as there was no other way to hold it there while I screwed in the little screw bolt.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
thanks for the reply guys... i did see that video on how to test the module.. i didnt do that test only because i thought maybe the ohms reading on the older module is different from the PT modules like in the video
Also.. whats an SP motor?
I will put my module off and do a test on it and see what it reads.
Also could it be surface rust on the coil or flywheel?
Charlie, I didn't consider a newbie was here. SP really SPFC means the side pull full crank Victa 160cc two stroke before the all new Powertorque half crank.
I have recently read rust on the faces of the flywheel magnets and coil does not affect spark performance.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Hi Charlie, One other thing to check is the surface between the coil and where it mounts, bit of corrosion between the surfaces can cause a problem sometimes but it is not common issue, it usually is the module
Yes no problems just need to change the fitting to plug the wire onto the PT module, no big deal
I was lucky there NormK when you guided me on changing mine as it had already the tiny PT one. Fantastic engine when it finally fired. Did some SPFCs get the Powertorque type module from factory?
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Hi MF, never seen one with the PT module so I wouldn't know and I doubt it because they would have need a wiring loom with the PT spade terminal ad that would probably have been all too hard
I've got a SPFC Mustang I found discarded years ago and it's a beautiful runner. Starts so easily and runs sweet.
PS I sanded some filler on the left side and touched it up. I then discovered two cracks on the front skirt . I'll hammer it flush and apply JB weld underneath.
I took the opportunity to swap a spare starter in as the other one had a short rope that didn't retract fully.
I swapped the Mustang label from the old cracked top before cleaning the top grill and fitting to the mower.
These fixes took most of my night but very glad to have finally gotten around to completing it.
I used screws from a discarded microwave to replace the rusty originals.
Last edited by Mowerfreak; 04/03/2101:18 AM. Reason: Pics and text added.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
I think you'll find both will work. They are just different makers. Ones a Stens and the other Jak Max. May as well save a couple of bucks and get the slightly cheaper Stens brand unless Jak Max its made in Germany lol.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!