Need help?


Search OutdoorKing by entering Key Words Below



Who's Online Now
0 members (), 195 guests, and 177 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Online Spare Parts


Online Store


Newest Topics
Greenfield Evolution III 10.5
by CJay - 19/07/24 12:34 AM
Villers engine numbers
by Bevan12666! - 17/07/24 06:43 AM
Victa SSA201A Catcher
by PK5 - 11/07/24 05:16 PM
Greenfield Anniversary 88 Idler Sprocket
by Guliyas - 05/07/24 04:55 PM
Looking for service manual Cox Conquest
by MrG6 - 30/06/24 07:11 AM
Mcculloch Super 100 brushcutter
by sirzur - 29/06/24 01:12 PM
Topic Replies
SB45 Resto
by deviosi - 26/07/24 09:30 AM
Greenfield Evolution III 10.5
by NormK - 22/07/24 12:08 PM
Villers engine numbers
by maxwestern - 18/07/24 05:54 PM
Victa SSA201A Catcher
by NormK - 11/07/24 08:39 PM
Greenfield Anniversary 88 Idler Sprocket
by Guliyas - 08/07/24 06:31 AM
HORSE MOWER - Port Melbourne - c1910-1930
by Alan M - 04/07/24 08:43 PM
Looking for service manual Cox Conquest
by MrG6 - 30/06/24 07:11 AM
Mcculloch Super 100 brushcutter
by sirzur - 29/06/24 01:12 PM
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Hop To
#109029 19/10/20 07:06 PM
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 148
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Hi all,

When removing the blade plate hub recently I've used a 3 leg puller instead of 2 bolts that thread into
the bearing clamp and then the other end of the 2 bolts go to a harmonic balancer puller.

The last 10 done this way with the bearing clamp and 3 leg puller was much easier ,just had to
fit the puller on and give the puller thread some tension while holding the centre bolt of the puller to the crank
bolt with vice grips so the puller stays central then when you have tension on the puller put a block of steel
under one side of the boss ( I use a medium mallet with fibreglass handle) then I use a brass drift on the other
side of the boss and give it a hammering until the puller needs tightening again ,one you've repeated this
process a few times the hammers are not needed ,I would suggest using something like CRC to spray on the
boss to start with ,I usually let the penetrene soak down into the key way in the crank.

Cheers
Max.

Attached Images
IMG_1356aaa.jpg (239.89 KB, 44 downloads)
IMG_1357aaa.jpg (165.03 KB, 45 downloads)
IMG_1358aaa.jpg (212.04 KB, 44 downloads)
IMG_1359aaa.jpg (143.96 KB, 45 downloads)
IMG_1360aaa.jpg (127.25 KB, 44 downloads)
IMG_1361aaa.jpg (133.07 KB, 43 downloads)
IMG_1362aaa.jpg (126.42 KB, 43 downloads)
IMG_1363aaa.jpg (124.12 KB, 43 downloads)
IMG_1364aaa.jpg (176.1 KB, 43 downloads)
IMG_1365aaa.jpg (200.84 KB, 43 downloads)
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,478
Likes: 147
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Thats good Max, some of them are stuck so hard. My 6 ton jack setup gets them off with ease

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 148
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
G'day Norm

I was using a 2 foot shifter to tighten the balancer puller bolt and stripped a lot of bolts on the balancer remover,
always used shock loading to get the hub to move but this way now I use an 8 inch shifter and the hammers and
it's 10 times easier ,I was using a lot a force on a really tight puller bolt but it's not needed with the 3 leg puller just needs
to be tight with the eight inch shifter then shock the boss so it moves.

The 6 ton press would make it easy Norm when you cut the crank off an old motor it's a pity the whole motor
won't fit into the press.

Cheers
Max.

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,478
Likes: 147
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Max,
I use a bearing puller and a 6 ton jack in a frame I made up. Gets rid of the frustration of dealing with threaded rods and shifters and spanners and skinned knuckles. I can't get a motor in the press, not enough room from the underside of the motor and the boss.

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 148
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
You were talking about making that a while ago Norm ,I hadn't realized it was finished ,with a 6 ton jack
it sounds like the setup must be heavy duty.

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,488
Likes: 23
AVB Offline
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Personally that setup is pulling a little one sided which causes harder pulling. You need to be pulling straight. Here I use the regular T bar that came with my bearing separators and a little heat from cutting torch. Now I have stripped out the original forcing screw and have since reworked the T bar and have larger forcing installed. I also sacrificial blocks to prevent shaft damage from the forcing screw so I dont need to install a screw in the crankshaft end.

Also all you should need to do is the tighten the forcing screw as tight as you can and smack it with a heavy brass hammer. Of course you would to re-tighten the forcing screw several times and repeat until the item being pulled comes off.

Now of course I am having to pull stamp steel pulleys which get destroyed in the pulling operation. They really rusted on too which is why I use heat. The way these pulleys hubs are mounted the hubs are inaccessible so pulling the pulley itself is the only way to remove them. I got distaste for Cub Cadet ZTRs when comes to the drive pulleys as I nearly destroy every one of the drive pulleys just get the engines off. Just wish CC would use anti-seize compound the first around.

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,478
Likes: 147
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi Max,
It isn't a heavy setup, I sit the motor on one of those workmate benches with the bearing puller and the frame to hold the jack hanging through the middle, slip the jack in and pump away, off in a few minutes. I did put pics of it on here when I made it but not sure where they ended up.
Hi AVB,
it is simple, if they used anti-seize they would not get to sell you new pulleys

1 member likes this: AVB
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 148
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
G'day Norm and AVB

Yes I just saw the Jack puller you made Norm ,it looks like it takes all the effort out of removing the crank boss.

The other problem is the 2 bolt puller will not work on the boss above ,if you turn the bearing clamp so
the 2 bolts clear the base of the boss the bearing clamp gets stuck on the cranks key when you try
to remove the boss , I used to drill 2 holes in the base for the bearing clamp puller bolts.

With the 3 leg puller it just seems to need a lot less tension to remove the boss than when I was using
the 2 bolt puller.

Yes this 3 leg puller isn't pulling perfectly central but it's surprising how easy it removes the crank boss.

The Cub Cadet ZTRs sound like a real pain to remove the drive pulley , if you had plenty of time and soaked
the pulley in a bucket of vinegar for a month I wonder if the pulley would slide off easily.

Cheers
Max.


Moderated by  bigted, Bruce, CyberJack, Gadge, Mr Davis 

Link Copied to Clipboard
July
M T W T F S S
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9 10 11 12 13 14
15 16 17 18 19 20 21
22 23 24 25 26 27 28
29 30 31
ShoutChat
Comment Guidelines: Do post respectful and insightful comments. Don't flame, hate, spam.
Newest Members
LawnLuke, chris s, _s.fletcher_, Waynefury, yambuk
16,845 Registered Users
Forum Statistics
Forums145
Topics12,730
Posts104,732
Members16,846
Most Online2,545
Dec 23rd, 2019
OutdoorKing Showcase
20 Bucks from FB Marketplace
20 Bucks from FB Marketplace
by Return Rider, February 20
Victa Cortina 2 Shed Find
Victa Cortina 2 Shed Find
by Return Rider, January 25
My Rover Baron 45
My Rover Baron 45
by Maxwell_Rover_Baron, April 16
SHOWCASE - Precision Mowers - 2021
SHOWCASE - Precision Mowers - 2021
by CyberJack, April 14
SHOWCASE – Atco Rotary – Paul C - 2020
SHOWCASE – Atco Rotary – Paul C - 2020
by CyberJack, December 28
HOME |CONTACT US
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5
(Release build 20201027)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 7.4.33 Page Time: 0.026s Queries: 33 (0.019s) Memory: 0.7024 MB (Peak: 0.7785 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2024-07-27 09:10:33 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS