When I did my engine cowl and went to clean it, rust would start appearing before your eyes as it was drying. I didn't know what to do about it so just painted it straight away as soon as it dried. It doesn't seen to have emerged anywhere so far.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
I do a bit of hand tool and parts refinishing, utilising a Molasses de-rusting bath, and a traditional 'rust blacking' process. This involves deliberately forming a uniform coat of red rust, Fe2O3, on the surface, and then converting it to 'black rust', aka magnetite, Fe3O4.
There are a couple of simple techniques to 'passivate' a reactive steel surface, after it comes out of any de-rusting bath.
The simplest is to treat the surface with boiling water - but you must use high purity water. Distilled or demineralised water is best, followed by rainwater. Tap water just doesn't cut it here; bore water even less so.
Pouring the water over the surface will work OK, if it's done straight away. The residual heat will ensure that the workpiece dries off quickly, too.
A related technique involves a 'steam cabinet' - tap water is fine to use in this one, as the workpiece never contacts the liquid water.
As I often work with longish, skinny workpieces, I've built a 'steam pipe apparatus' based on an old leccy frying pan, and some PVC DWV pipe and fittings. Pic of this setup attached; also a couple of refinished tools I've done. Rust blacked, then given a couple of coats of Boiled Linseed Oil - this is a good old-time anti-rust coating, and it doesn't stink fishily...
For an average thickness workpiece, 10-15min of steaming is all that is needed. Some of the 'black rust' is not bound to the metal, so this is removed in a process termed 'carding', using a soft wire brush or degreased steel wool.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
I have a hand held trigger steam cleaner that I use distilled water in. Is that useful?
If you mean one of those 'Steam Genius' type jiggers, then no. I have one of those here. Won't produce sufficient steam, or for long enough.
Edit: You'd need to use something like a pro type wallpaper steamer unit, as a steam generator. Something like the Andersen oil-fired industrial steam cleaner I used to have would ace the job, but be serious overkill!
Last edited by Gadge; 28/04/2004:18 PM. Reason: Elaboration
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
with this pastime I spend minimal money, so there's two chances of obtaining one -non and Buckley's. It sounds like that is what I have. It cost me $20 at Aldi down from thirty something ninety nine.
I bet some dreamer on SleazeBay is attempting to sell one for $120.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Yeah, I'm a dyed-in-the-wool scrounger, who does stuff on a minimal budget, too.
For bigger items like deflectors, it would be quite easy to set up a 'steaming chamber'.
Made from say a 20-60L steel drum with a clip-on lid, or just a loose cover of plywood or sheetmetal, and some sort of arrangement to keep the parts out of the water. Sit it on a decent [double ring or better] LPG ring burner, add a half bucket or so of water, and away you go.
The drum would need to be thoroughly degreased though, if it had contained oil or grease of any kind.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
I was tempted to leave the motor alone as it was running so well. Lucky I took head and barrel off as top ring was stuck in with carbon. I released it and decoke . It will be good as I will keep this mower for myself..... cheers speedy
........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Got to be patient, watch the paint dry and harden... I don't want to end up with scratches all over. I used Boston Black Zinc for cowl and black parts and underneath. Motor is almost ready. Looks like it had new rings, good bore , no lip. The cream plastic cover had sun degredation, it was powering, but not inside. I water blaster some stuff of and snaded and spayed some white paint on to fix it.... probably last longer than me... cheers speedy
Last edited by speedy; 09/05/2006:09 PM.
........................Keep your blades sharp......................
I screwed the cowl phillips head bolts in with my drill and screwed them past the stops and busted the three long ones. You gotta make a few stuff ups...... I'll fix it with long bolts and washers .......... The lawn is growing and it will do me..... cheers speedy
........................Keep your blades sharp......................