Can I request for help, I just bought a 11-30 model, noticed the rear bearing beside the chain is busted, the belt is already snapped when I got it.
Q1. What is the part number for the bearing, do I have to replace both?
Any suggestions or manuals on how to remove them?
Q2. There is a piece of red wire that came unloosed, not sure where it goes, I believe it's for the starter. The battery is working, the electric switch as well, but starter won't move, I think it's this red cable connected somewhere is the culprit. Can I also request for help or a wiring diagram please.
welcome here, where we try to help. This can be a very tough job replacing the bearings and there is no easy way. At least yours has the 3 stud wheels and that makes it a lot easier to remove the boss off the axle. You will have to remove the right side wheel and take the axle out through the body from the sprocket side. Get to this point and we can walk you through the next steps
Sorry arxty, The last one I did I used a standard sealed bearing instead of the original one, much cheaper and seemed to work fine. Just went to the local bearing shop and got bearings to suit the shaft and they fitted inside the cage without any problems.
G'day folks, Hi artxty, and welcome to the ODK Forums.
We do have a parts list for the Greenfield Tractor series available for download; it's the second file on the list HERE.
However, I'm afraid that the OEM part number may not be much use these days, as these models ran out of factory parts support [as they were over 25 years old!] before Greenfield sold out to Cox Mowers.
But all is not lost; Greenfield used standard industrial type parts wherever possible. If it's just a standard radial ball bearing, it'll be readily available from industrial bearing suppliers [or even the likes of Repco, for common types] - you'll just need the type number from the side of the outer race, once you have the bearing out. This will be a 4 digit number, and add the suffix -2RS to spec the double side sealed version.
Some Greenfields used clutch shaft bearings with an extended inner race, to allow the use of set screws to lock it to the shaft. These are known as the 'set screw mounted' bearing type. Yes, they are available through bearing specialists. NSK make a range of them, among others.
And yes, it's a long job to get the shaft out and back in, so definitely replace both bearings.
On the wiring issue, the wiring harness on these old models was very simple indeed, and I've not even seen a wiring diagram for them. But with the aid of a few pics of the setup, it shouldn't be too hard to work out.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
So which bearing has failed, the one on the rear axle or the one on the upper shaft? To make it easy just remove the rear cowling (2 bolts under the seat).
If it is the upper shaft you will need to remove the transmission pulley assembly. Not a huge job but is a little bit awkward at times. I actually have to pull one out of my 11-30 and i can take a few pictures if you need.
all bearings in the rear of these machines are standard flangette bearings; top shaft bearings part no. GT392 or BEX3898 5/8" center ($40+ each from a mower shop, should be under $20 from a bearing shop) and the axle bearings are in the book GT391 But i think they are a 1" center GT390 (same deal, I would go to a bearing shop)
It doesn't hurt to replace both, but the chain side bearing is under a lot more load than the other side, you would get away with changing the one.
If you are talking about the red wire that is hanging off the side of the engine, that is the alternator charge wire. These models have a mechanical starter solenoid under the dash, pushed on by a lever and are usually quite hard to operate, you have to pull the lever very hard.
The red wire from the engine would have connected to the battery positive terminal somewhere
Thats a fairly common bearing to fail. to start with you will want to undo the chain, there should be a joining link somewhere. To change the bearing you will need to remove the drive assembly, so that just means undoing the bearings on both sides from the frame.
You will need to remove the belt tensioner (the sliding pulley bit that goes from under the battery to the back of the frame, i see the belt is already off), forward reverse linkage (one bolt from underneath, has locknut on top).
Once all that is undone you should be able to take the pulley assembly out the top of the frame. Once out undo the grub screws, and you will probably need a small gear puller to remove the sprocket and then the inner bearing race from the shaft.
As for the electrical system, some photos will help, I could never understand why people would complicate such a simple starting system, but i'm sure it should be an easy fix.
