Hi bonnar_bloke,
Thanks for your reply - that did the trick! There was a bit of mucking around as when I first tighten the set screw I must have gone too tight as I could no longer manipulate the lever - then it went back to too loose. Got it where I thought was right and started it up and it ran like a dream. I suspect that adjustment actually had impacts on the cutting reel itself when it was engaged, as it seemed to run much faster/better post adjustment. I did note that the lever still moves to the right about the same amount (i.e. past full disengaged) but the handle is certainly a lot 'tighter' to operate - is this correct? I feel the lever shouldn't really go past full vertical, the only explanation I can think of is that the flat part on the lever is overly worn and allows a bit of free play, even when the set screw is adjusted.
A quick query - which piece is the 'black plastic thrust pad'? Is that the first circular black piece with notches in it at the top of (what I assume is) the fork assembly? Should this piece not be as notched/worn as it is?
Also, can you please clarify your statement about the clutch half being closer to the engine - is that the gap between the silver clutch half and the orange side wall of the engine (shown in picture 6)? IS that as simple as undoing the two square headed set screws and sliding the clutch half closer towards the engine on the drive shaft and then re-tightening them as well as adjusting the clutch fork set screw accordingly to move the 'other' clutch half equally closer? Sorry if that is confusing, but this mechanical stuff is all fairly new to me!
Thanks again for your advice - I feel like I've had a small victory on a problem that's been nagging me for weeks!
Kenny.
