Hi MF, Norm and wce
Now the Camira is cooling system central at the moment. As I previously posted, I put in Nulon stop leak. Worked perfectly 3 drives then stuck the thermo shut and almost cooked it. I was standing at the side of the road shorting the thermo with fencing wire and smacking the housing with a spanner before it opened.
To its credit, even after flushing the leak slowed significantly and I haven't been worrying about it too much. Loses about 100ml over an hour drive. If I drove it every day, I would worry
Got all the parts to fix on clearance, so can't complain.
Replaced smaller thermostat housing ($11 instead $55), new tridon thermostat ($3.50) drilled with 2x 5/32in ? holes (can remember but sort of victa needle thickness size), reverse flushed and new coolant.
Goes up to a bit before half, thermo kicks in, back to 1/4. The problem is the gauges are known to give false readings, so I plan to run a test involving a multimeter, and a checklight. Checklight through thermo switch to see on off, multi between temp sender and ground. Check readings against gauge deflections listed in manual to see real temp.
My main back up is the knowledge that if it noticeably pings before 15 x10mmhg on the vac gauge, then its getting too hot.
I got the big thermostat housing base on clearance at repco ($35 is nicer than $212) and will install in december with new timing belt, and possibly one of my $5 repco water pumps if necessary.
Oil additives are a big can of worms. I have about 20 different sorts here I have either got given or paid under $10 for. Nulon worn engine repair does do what it says to a degree. Rislone oil stop leak works damn good - turned a briggs leaking its whole sump in a week to losing 50ml over 6 months. I have got other rislone, liquimoly and other ones I can't remember floating around.
