Long time lurker, and now just beginning my first restoration to my Model 33. I have owned it for a couple years now, but after receiving a new engine for my birthday, i feel its time to strip her back and return to former glory. Would also love everyone's view on a colour scheme. I am not sure if i will use the original green, or change things up a bit.
I will continue to post photos, and no doubt be a pest as im not very mechanically minded. So this is a true challenge in itself!
So my first question is, the lower part of the clutch cable doesn't want to come off the drum roller? Any tips on why this is, and where have i gone wrong? Photo included.
Any other questions you may have, i will endeavour to answer a long the way.
Have no fear about abilities - they are simple machines and a decent memory of where things came off is probably your best friend. That and a manual of your unit that I'm guessing will be in the forum somewhere..
There's a few senior members that will give you better info on the specific piece you're having issues with and I look forward to seeing what you decide to do with the colours - they're your choice! Look online for ideas, but put your own flair to it.
Are you going to continue to use it when restored?
So my first question is, the lower part of the clutch cable doesn't want to come off the drum roller?
Hello Basis and TheCount I guess the clevis pin on the cable stirrip is locked solid due to rust. So, is the issue how you free the pin (74) from the clutch ramp (73)?
Or, is the issue how you remove the landroll clutch from the rear roller shaft?
The reason I asked about it being a working machine as that could have an impact as to how far you go with your restoration. For me, I didn't go for the "showroom finish" as I know my mower (currently undergoing a restore) will be used on average 4 times a week. The groomer would be used say monthly.
The bit that stands out for me, now I'm refreshing my units is the need to spend a day or 2 during the Winter just going over and really cleaning them out. Dust, dirt, and grass gets into all sorts of spots you can't see from the outside and regular "grease and oil change" needs to be more than just that. Things like pulling out the reel and bits associated with that, opening the 2 clutch components and triple checking the cork, even removing the sole plate to get in behind that...
With your bed knife - take it easy as they will test your strength. Have you got somewhere to take the reel and knife to be sharpened? They may be a good option if you have trouble with it..
The post that got me enthusiastic about doing the restoration is here: emk3 restoration and is a great example of the steps involved.
Thank you TC. I have taken my reel to be sharpened once before. But this time around, i had a recommendation for a place in Pooraka, who seems to work on cylinder mowers frequently, and has a good reputation on the SB Facebook pages. Cheers
Hi all,What's the best way to clean the reel and in/Out of rear roller before priming? I have got most the other parts to a acceptable level I think, and hoping to start painting soon! Any help appreciated
Just take it all down to a blasting place and let them do it as the reel if done properly by hand will take a full day alone of hard Yaka !
Then just get em to do the roller as well if that's the way you want to go. Personally I wouldn't paint to rollers at all as the paint will be back off them in no time.
Cheers, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Pop a little tape on the top of the clutch piece to keep paint out of the inners. You can use a utility knife to get the right shape.
I'm about 90% of the way through blasting my reel at work and it is a far more economical approach than with wire wheels and the like. The sand gets into every corner and in the end you're left with a surface that will take the paint really nicely. In saying that, be careful when painting in cold conditions..
Thanks All, Would there need any other parts taped up? I am going to send the items to my blaster through work, and get them to apply a primer (Zincanode 402) coating straight after. Don't won't to damage anything or create more issues after if i haven't taped correctly. Also, if you can help me out in a couple other parts. Whats the easiest way to remove the cork from the clutch, or do i just leave it? And where can i find a replacement if i do get it off?
So my first question is, the lower part of the clutch cable doesn't want to come off the drum roller?
Hello Basis and TheCount I guess the clevis pin on the cable stirrip is locked solid due to rust. So, is the issue how you free the pin (74) from the clutch ramp (73)?
Or, is the issue how you remove the landroll clutch from the rear roller shaft?
Cheers ------------------------- Jack
Hi Jack, Where could i find such i good copy of the manual, like your attachement? The one i have is quite hard to read. Cheers Christopher
I found that areas to be taped are generally any part that will be in contact by another in the normal operation of the unit - such as the shafts, especially where the woodruff keys sit and where a shaft is inserted into a bearing or sprocket. The part of the shaft where the thrust pad moves along will never hold paint. It is easy enough to get off with thinners etc but its just more work.
Just to keep updated, I primed the parts that i felt were prepared well enough.
I still have a bit of prep work on the larger parts, and i will hope to do that over the weekend. I opted to not send them out for blasting, as i have most the equipment at my workshop, and wish to keep the costs for items i may need to purchase.
Got a bit excited and order my paint for this restoration, opting to go away from the traditional approach. Had the Protec rep for my business come down, and suggest some product, which i should have early next week. Am doing a 2k Epotec primer followed by a 2k Topcoat Paraglaze 64 - Colour is going to a shade of orange! All prepared items i can sprayed with an etch primer so they weren't exposed bare for too long.
All nuts, bolts, washers & the bearings i could get my hands on have been ordered. Which was fun to sort out!!
Hi All, May be a silly question, but do the sprockets need to be painted after stripping back? Or if not, is there an oil i should apply to ensure the rusting is slowed? Cheers
Nothing inside a 33 or 45 is painted apart from the chassis side plate that is visible when the chain cover is removed. All parts were left in straight steel and as you'll always have oily vapours floating around in there you'll find nothing will rust if used regularly. I've seen machines that haven't been used in over 10 years reveal perfectly rust free components when the cover is first removed.
Cheers, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Thank you BB & CJ Painting my 2K primer today, and then finishing colour over the weekend. With luck, re-assemble can start next week & i will pray that all the parts go together :-)
First time doing an electrolysis bath. Boy was i glad i did. Worked a treat with some of the parts hard to get to with a wire wheel. I opted out of sand blasting, due to the cost + i wanted to do as much of the work myself.
I did however try my hand at soda blasting, it worked to an extent. But without a cabinet i was really wasting way too much soda to make it viable.
Happy with my prep, i know it isnt going to be 100% perfect like some other examples on here. But for my first time, i feel happy with the result to date. Plus, being my regular mower it is inevitable there will be new dents & scratches to come with a tight back yard.
Looking forward to seeing this one assembled, Basis.
Don't worry about the dents too much. I left my 45 pretty well as is when it came to the dents. I've already added one dent to the catcher and put a lovely scrape down the side where it met the brick edging!
I don't collect mowers. I just require Multiple Mowing Solutions™.
