I have recently acquired a couple of greenfields. One is a Tractor 8 with the cast alloy piece at the front and when looking at it from behind it is leaning to the left. The other is a Tractor 11 21st Anni Model. This ones has a good chassis but no cutting deck. Ideally I would like to retrofit the cutting deck off the 8 to the 11 as it�s chassis and steering is a better design. Problem is I can�t find any documents on how the idler pulley setup is on the Tractor 11. I have these parts pictured.
Here is a photo of the one with the slight angle at the rear. Might help with proper identification will get photos of the one with the missing deck tonight
Hi Julian the Tractor looks to be in reasonable condition, why not just fix that one? Any idea why it has a lean, has a bearing collapsed or is the chassis twisted somehow? I think that is unlikely because the bodywork is in good condition
Not sure why it�s twisted. They have a funny way of adjusting the chain. Where you move the axle in the frame, not sure if this is contributing to the lean, the steering is also very loose, mainly due to the alloy gears on the shaft. The other has a straight chassis, good steering and a better motor also.
Hi Julian, I have an Anniversary here that has the alloy nose so there is obviously some crossover on the models but how far this goes I'm not sure. Will the decks interchange, don't know and I guess the only way to find out is to put decks side by side. Where in Vic are you, I could pull the deck out of this one if that helps?
Hi Julian, Swan Hill is a bit out of the question so that is not going to help. I can probably measure where the idler pulleys mount and how wide apart they are. I know they are fairly critical because we had to file them out on my mates one so we could get enough tension on the belt a few months ago. The ones you put the pic up on are they off the Tractor?
The ones in the photo are off the anniversary model. (Not the one pictured) from what I have found they mount onto the cutting deck but not sure what the other part is that has a piece of spring steel attached to it.
I will check tomorrow , I think the steel leg might come up to mount the idler pulley for the drive belt. I can't remember how the Tractor is set up, been a while since I chopped the last one I had here up
Cheers Norm, if I can sort the one with the strange angle I will put some time into replacing some other steering components see if it takes some play out of it without having to replace the old alloy gears. But the one without a deck is a much better designed chassis and the drive chain idler set up rather then The adjustable rear axle.
Hi Julian, it is very difficult to measure without the deck off but with it on its side about the only measurement I can get is that the pulley mounting bracket is 70mm from the rear of the deck, that is to the rear edge of the bracket, not to the bolt holes. As for the arm on the pulley bracket, that fits in an east/west crossmember towards the rear, it fits in a slot you should be able to see on your Anniversary chassis. If you decided to use the Tractor I think you should be able to set up a chain adjuster similar to the Anniversary one. You don't need to use the small sprocket on the adjuster adjuster, a couple of similar sized sealed bearings on a bolt is all that is needed
Norm thanks heaps. Is it possible to get a couple of photos? Just to get my head around it�s layout a bit better. I gather it is mounted in the centre of the deck? I may even yet have a go at leveling the tractor and making a similar chain tensioner also like suggested.
High Julian, photos won't help much without removing the deck, near impossible to see in there. Not knowing what the setup is with the Tractor deck all I can say is that if you mounted the idler pulley square to the pulley deck (discharge chute outlet I think is probably square to the chassis) and sit the pulley bracket in 70mm from the rear of the deck you would be in the right area. Sticking with the Tractor might be a better option and don't let the steering fool you the Anniversary one is no better, they are pretty bad as well. The Evolution steering is a better design
Cheers norm. I might persist with the tractor and see if by letting the chain be as slack as possible. (Axel as far forward in the adjustment) makes it sit level. That being the case leave it there and add a tensioner/idler for the drove chain using a similar setup to the anniversary and also swap the motors out (tractor leaks and blows a bit of smoke). Will the steering wheels swap out? The one on the tractor has cracked?
Steering wheels will interchange but they can be near impossible to get off some times.I had one on an Anniversary that even with it in my press it would not move and I gave up because all that was going to end up happening was the wheel breaking
It's almost the exception rather than the rule for one of these old girls to sit level! . A difference in diameter between the LH and RH rear tyres is the usual culprit. A difference in tyre pressure, tyre size or wear will do it. Even tyres that are supposedly the same size but different brands can do it. Long since gave up worrying about it. In theory I suppose you could level the deck by adjustment to compensate for a lean brought about by a difference in tyre size but I've never bothered with that either.
The axle adjustment might be playing a part too. The axle is supposed to be adjusted evenly at both LH and RH bearings so that the axle stays square in the machine when adjustments are made to the chain tension.
I can't agree that the Anniversary Machine is preferable from a design perspective. In fact I'm firmly a supporter of the older models. Easier to deal with, slightly simpler design, slightly more repairable. That's not to say there is anything wrong with the the Anniversary machines. But if I was in your position and I had a good ol' Tractor model in good nick I wouldn't be bothering with the Anniversary.
Play in the steering of the Tractor 8 might be able to be cured with adjustment. There is a large nut on the RH side (I think it's the RH side) of the lateral steering shaft. This nut adjusts the play out between the two gears and it has a tendency to work loose. I replace this nut with a nyloc if it's not already. Don't overtighten it - just enough to take up the play.
. A difference in diameter between the LH and RH rear tyres is the usual culprit. A difference in tyre pressure, tyre size or wear will do it. Even tyres that are supposedly the same size but different brands can do it. Long since gave up worrying about it. In theory I suppose you could level the deck by adjustment to compensate for a lean brought about by a difference in tyre size but I've never bothered with that either.
