Gday ODK Followers. What a great forum with so much experience and knowledge being shared. Having owned a SB45 17 inch for 20+ years, I've wanted to restore it for some time now even though it works perfectly. Rather than have it out of action, I finally found a reasonably priced unit a couple of weeks ago for the purpose of a total restoration at a leisurely pace. The rails look decent although a closer inspection will reveal any faults once the machine is dismantled. The Briggs & Stratton starts, runs reasonably well (little bit of white smoke), and cuts pretty well given the blades look poor and are out of adjustment. Clutch is ok, will require work I expect. I've seen so many excellent restorations here but I particularly like Mr.Jones' work and his personalised Hammerfin Green paint. Consequently I think I will be unorthodox and not stick to the "genuine" kermit green, but rather run with Mr.Jones' colour scheme which in my humble opinion, best represents the Scott Bonnar brand. As the ID badge is in poor nick, is it safe to assume that due to the shape of the badge and the frame colour that the unit is a Scott Bonnar/Rover? Plenty of work to do and I will make a small start this weekend with an oil change, fuel refresh, spark plug and air filter replacement. Photos attached for review and feedback most welcome. Regards, Justin
Last edited by CyberJack; 30/08/1707:17 AM. Reason: Fix Gallery
Hello Sbtragic A warm welcome from me to these forums. Yes, this is Model 45 central I would say.
I have fixed your great gallery of images. The main problem was that camera resolutions are too big for the internet. This is in both file size and dimension.
Our 45 expert - Bonnar Bloke - is absent for a few days. In the meantime I can offer my thoughts...
This looks like a sound machine. I totally agree with your view about paint colour. Mr Jones' work and choice represents restoration at its best.
My main objection with this Kermit Green colour (used by Rover) is that the process has proved so bad. This isn't paint as such but a very poor powder coating. We do not recommend this process for many hard wearing bits on lawnmowers.
I don't think the engine is original - as it has on-board throttle and choke controls. Original machines would have had a remote throttle control. It presents as an off-the-shelf replacement motor.
BB should be able to comment further on his return, shortly.
I attach a couple of images of an original spec machine like yours. Note the lack of on-board controls. Also note the difference in the deterioration of the paint between the first and second machine.
Well I think you've picked up a bit of a Heinz breed mower there with it being made up from a few other machines.
Firstly the engine is a 1994 built unit being made on the 21st. of April of that year but I strongly feel that this is not the original power plant on this chassis as the engine is of the era of a Rover Red Model 45.
Yours is known as a Rover/Scott Bonnar and yes it is powder coated Kermit Green, some thing that will have to be blasted off if it is to be saved. This machine is the perfect example of why powder coating is a poor choice on a mower, just check out all the corrosion all over it and how the powder coating has flaked off over its life once it looses its bonding with the base metal.
I must agree with you that the proposed colour scheme that you intend to choose is also my favourite as well, so from my opinion it's a good choice.
Can you inform me as to what the small white sticker near the ID tag represents ? is it merely a number on there or what ?
The chains and sprockets look reasonable to me with only the cutter sprocket starting to show its signs of wear and will eventually require changing. Depending on how far you intend going with this project you may want to change it in the due course of the restoration.
Please do keep us up to date with lots of photos to document the work being done and don't hesitate to ask questions.
Cheers, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Many thanks Jack. I'm sure you're right about the engine. A good thing though in my view as it is younger. Photo attached of the right handle and 2 holes which would have been the fixing position of the throttle handle. I've reduced the image size to less than 500kb so hopefully it displays ok
Thanks for your feedback BB. I'm not too sure about that white sticker although I did see a post from another user on this forum where their photo showed a very similar sized and positioned sticker which actually stated the model, (Model No 45 XXX). As per attached image, there is not a hint of text to identify.
I've reduced the image size to less than 500kb so hopefully it displays ok
Yes Justin, perfect. Any image under 1.5MB will result in a gallery image.
Quote
I'm not too sure about that white sticker although I did see a post from another user on this forum where their photo showed a very similar sized and positioned sticker which actually stated the model
, Yep, I have also seen these with noise rating stickers ...
Whilst we're talking ID badges, what is the preferred tidy up method for a badge in such poor condition as mine? Drill out rivets, light/fine wet sand to remove old black paint, buff, new rivets?
Whilst we're talking ID badges, what is the preferred tidy up method for a badge in such poor condition as mine? Drill out rivets, light/fine wet sand to remove old black paint, buff, new rivets?
Hello Justin This is an interesting and important question you ask - about ID plates on mowers. The important thing is that the stampings are preserved for the model and serial numbers.
I am not a restorer, but a sensitive approach does give time to explore the options. Maybe, an experienced restorer might offer opinion?
I'd love to be giving responses but as I've just come out of hospital after surgery, I'm struggling to sit up yet alone type much.
In the next few days I should be a bit better and as I'm not allowed to do anything manual for 6 weeks I should have plenty of time to answer questions.
Cheers for now, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
hi Justin and welcome to the forum, sounds like you love your mower having used it for 20 years . thought you would have liked to restore your old girl first, maybe that will be next to do up there are plenty sellers on ebay selling most parts that need replacing at good prices for the 45s would not hurt to give the briggs a freshen up when you strip it down , new rings, lap the valves carb kit ect are cheap and have it running like new look forward to seeing your mower done up cheers freebird
Well those Rover ID plates are a bit of a pain as they are graphically screen printed on to the Ally plate, thus it is rather impossible to refurbish unless you are in the graphics arts game and have facilities to the equipment required to do this.
I guess the best thing you can do is lightly wet and dry it until you've got a nice brushed looking finish and it will only show the Model and serial numbers which effectively is the only info on the plate apart from the makers name and address which we all know.
After you've done that use a good clear enamel and seal it without getting any finger prints on it prior to spraying and this way it will look good for years.
The old brass ones are a totally different kettle of fish to deal with but certainly look much better after refinished.
Cheers, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Thanks Freebird. I would love to give the Briggs a recon but given this is my first restoration, I'm going to keep it simple and just paint the Briggs.
Well those Rover ID plates are a bit of a pain as they are graphically screen printed on to the Ally plate, thus it is rather impossible to refurbish unless you are in the graphics arts game and have facilities to the equipment required to do this.
I guess the best thing you can do is lightly wet and dry it until you've got a nice brushed looking finish and it will only show the Model and serial numbers which effectively is the only info on the plate apart from the makers name and address which we all know.
After you've done that use a good clear enamel and seal it without getting any finger prints on it prior to spraying and this way it will look good for years.
The old brass ones are a totally different kettle of fish to deal with but certainly look much better after refinished.
Cheers, BB.
Thanks for your feedback BB. I hope your recovery is going smoothly. I will give that a go and I like the idea of finishing with a clear coat to keep it looking good in the long term. Cheers.
Finally I have some time on my hands. Some hair line cracks on the front and rear rails will require the gusset method treatment. The fixed blade has less than 1mm thickness remaining so will replace that. Will send the frame parts in for blasting and painting in the coming days and crack on with ordering bearings, clutch parts etc.
I feel this topic will be helpful to 45 owners - in identifying good restoration practices. I feel you have made good information-based choices here.
The frame will have a much-extended life by intervention now!.
The 'gusset method treatment' is a most sensible repair method, because it is a repair done in situ; without losing cross-frame alignment. Many thanks to Mr Jones for his practical solution here.
p.s. This does not mean alignment should not be checked!
Forgive me, but the 'gusset method treatment' is very close to the 'cranial screw-top method' used by Steve Martin in ... a movie. I hate myself for this analogy, but I am of two minds:- Just Google 'Cranial screw-top method' for my thinking here.
Please keep us informed Sbtragic. Your topic is most relevant to ageing Scott Bonnar Model 45s
Cheers ------------------------ Jack
p.s. Whatever you do, do not powder coat without experienced paint re-coaters advice.
Well this one is a typical example of how many of the twin railers are today only around 2 minutes away from total failure.
It's lucky that you've caught this one before it totally cut loose and failed causing frame twist and misalignment. This damage is the sole responsibility of a flogged out clutch which has come about by it's owner not doing routine maintenance and checking the tightness of the cotter pin securing nut that's there primarily to hold the clutch body firmly on to the PTO shaft of the engine and eliminate any movement.
As Jack has mentioned above this is the perfect candidate for the "Jones Gusset Repair Method" which member "Mr Jones" was the founder of on this website.
If this repair is done correctly you'll find that the machine will outlast all of us. Just make sure that there is some type of corrosion protection between the gusset and the existing rail and do not leave them a bare steel prior to welding as you'll never be able to correct rust that will form between the two metals.
It also pays if you can after painting, create a hole in the surface finish that's not seen on the underside and force oil in between the two pieces, thus making it hard for rust to start in the first instance. A bit like the days of putting fish oil inside car doors and tail gates so that it finds its way into the seam folds of the body panels.
Please supply photos along the way to make this a reference thread for future readers.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
