Its a HR194/gxv120 19 inch self propelled. I know its history since new, im the 3rd user.
The loss of power come on rather quickly really, my son just said "it stalled dad and I cant restart it". He was right, only got it going again after it cooled right down. that's how it is now, very hard to start cold, impossible to start warm after it stalls. new plug, oil, carby clean hasn't improved it much. seems to have bugger all compression.
Local Honda dealer tried it said yep no compression, cant be fixed.
after hours of reading threads here, a lot from Grumpy, I know it can be fixed.
I'm going to pull it down tonight expecting it to need a set of rings.
Dont really have a specific question yet but any advice appreciated, any observations I should make on the destruct.
Mark.
Edit; I now have specific question, Is my head gasket leaking? The bolts didn't seem to be very tight, that's when I started to look for leakage. If the black carbon was coming from the exhaust gasket then I don't think it would get down into the cooling fins whee the head gasket is....?
PS inlet vale clearance was 6 thou, exhaust was 11.
Last edited by Ralph63; 15/08/1708:19 PM. Reason: photo added
Update, I pulled the head off, the two bolts on the exhaust side were loose compared to the other side. there was WD40 in the cylinder, which must have leaked in past the gasket when I was turning it over trying to confirm the leak. So the gasket was definitely leaking, see photos. I was in two minds, fit a new gasket and put it back together or strip it down and do the rings as well. I pulled the fly wheel off. The key is sheared and the flywheel has been moving on the shaft. This thing was running (sort of).
You guys have been great so far, so do I keep pulling it apart to do the rings or fix the keyway and head gasket only, which im sure will make a big difference.
Hi Ralph, and welcome to the forum. Check the bore for scoring and scratches, check for slop in the piston (left to right). If all appears ok, do the head gasket and keyway, reset valve clearances at 6 and 8 thou and give it a go. It always pays to strip and clean the carb while you're at it. I'm lazy at times and do the bare minimum but if you're in the mood to do some work, then do the rebuild. Either way it should come up a treat. Cheers, Ted
Im pulling it apart now, well trying to, cant get the cutting disc off the crank. Im using my harmonic balancer puller with two 10 x 1.25 x 50mm bolts with assistance from the gas axe.... no movement yet. Am I missing something here?
I was bored so I decided to give the head a port job. before I started you could not see into the ports from the combustion chamber. I wish I took a before photo, Its a huge difference
1st photo is the bulk of material removed from exhaust port. 2nd is final work. 3rd photo is bulk of material removed from inlet port. 4th is final work.
Probably this will not make a noticeable difference but why not have a go. maybe my 4HP mower will now be a 4.1Hp mower
From memory they don't have bearing shells on these. The aluminium conrod runs straight on the crank.
You could try Outdoor King for the parts: Outdoor King
Oops didn't realise I was I was posting on a part supplier website, (embarrassed). I was refereing to the ball race on the bottom end of crank. top of crank is direct bushed into the upper housing.
From memory they don't have bearing shells on these. The aluminium conrod runs straight on the crank.
You could try Outdoor King for the parts: Outdoor King
Oops didn't realise I was I was posting on a part supplier website, (embarrassed). I was refereing to the ball race on the bottom end of crank. top of crank is direct bushed into the upper housing.
I meant to say that the other way round, bush at base and ball race at top.
From memory they don't have bearing shells on these. The aluminium conrod runs straight on the crank.
You could try Outdoor King for the parts: Outdoor King
Oops didn't realise I was I was posting on a part supplier website, (embarrassed). I was refereing to the ball race on the bottom end of crank. top of crank is direct bushed into the upper housing.
I meant to say that the other way round, bush at base and ball race at top.
No worries. What's the bush like?
If the valves aren't leaking you probably don't need to lap them. I usually do them because I've gone to all the effort to get the head off!
Got it back together last night and running this morning.
refused to start for half hour of pulling, then I removed the air cleaner element, took it off choke and back to idle, another pull and it started ticking, and didn't stop. from then on starts every time, even after I put the filter back in.
just finished the back and front lawns just before the storm hit. runs and starts nice.
even seemed to have fluked the governor adjustment, seems to work well.
Ive got a problem with the needle and seat, carb keeps overflowing, had it off three times, cant see why the needle wont seal. I stretched the spring a bit but no joy, doesn't seem to be a problem when its running or maybe just harder to notice.
besides that all good.
New; woodfuff keys gaskets Honda rings & hand hone PCV tube float bowl ball race top seal
i went to the trouble of sourcing a new top seal but had to reuse the old lower seal, I thought there was a new one in the OK gasket kit, but no just some rubber washer ring thing that looked like a seal in the pictures, actually don't know what it is or where it goes. im disappointed about the lower seal thing.
Rings, the old top and centre were at 16 thou, the lower oil ring was about an 1/8 of an inch end gap, see photo. all new rings are 15 thou.
Any advice on my overflowing carby? Im guessing I can get a new needle but can I change the seat as well? go genuine or the OK one from this website good enough?
Oh and oil, I thought it took sae 30 which I used, but now I read should be 10W 30. does it matter?
Most Honda engine usually have a manual fuel shut off valve as their carbs do tend leak pass the needle and seat when sitting unused.
You can try replacing the needle as it should Viton rubber tip. If that don't solve the problem then it a new carburetor as the seat are non replaceable.
The oil should be fine as you are going to need change after 5 hours anyway as when you first rebuild it a cleaning oil to removed contaminates that you didn't fully removed during the cleaning process. Manufactures usually recommend this even on new engines.
