OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines What Briggs Motor for Yardman Beetle

Hi have a Yardman Beetle 1997 rideon with catcher. People complain about them, belts and cables etc. Only ever had to change the belts once and not that hard to do and never broken a cable. Yes its a slow mower but its a catcher rideon and love it.

Motor is a Briggs and Stratton and finally started to smoke. Model 121607 Type 0152-A1 Code 97052856. I was told its 12 cu in which works out to 190 cc. This motor has a 22 mm shaft not stepped 70 mm long. Bought a Yardman push mower and did a motor transplant but, it kicks back when pull starting, apparently it has a light flywheel and relies on the blade being bolted directly to the shaft to run properly. It will run properly if i engage the blades but if i don't or try and drive it it looses power and dies. Sweet if i drive everywhere with the blades engaged.

I can get an expensive new motor but wold like to find out what mower would have a motor to suit second hand. The Yardman Beetle just used a push mower motor with a lot of reduction pully's.

Any help please would be great.

Seems like you need a bit of weight bolted to the engine pulley, maybe something like the blade carrier that would have been on the push mower (with the blades remmoved of course)

lol would if there was room lol. Yardman Beetle had to use an odd motor. Have an old 5 hp Briggs that sits there nice but has a stepped shaft 22 mm up to 25 mm and 80 mm long. Length isn't a problem could of lifted the motor with spacers. Cant get the double pully machined out because they can't hold it in the lathe. Can buy two lock on pully's but shaft isn't long enough to mount the bottom pully.

There has to be an older style push mower out there that has the motor i need.

You could find out the details about the shaft size on this one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/222220661141?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

here is another one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170896317344?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

lol thanks already waiting for their reply. Put the motor back on the pushy and runs sweet. No kick back because of the big heavy single blade. Wish i had of known. Skin missing between two fingers from the pull start kicking back on the first pull ooouch

Hi rudes, sounds like the old motor from the beetle might be running a weighted flywheel, like most ride ons do because they don't rely on the on the weight of the blade like they do on a push mower.
Why dont you swap the flywheels over and solve your problem, assuming the engine from the push mower is a 12ci, the flywheel should fit straight on.

If you find a decent engineering shop they can probably put the pulley in a vice on a vertical mill and run it out to size for you with an adjustable reamer. More than one way to skin a cat.

bigted, can't swap the flywheels, two different motors.

aussietrev, two very big engineering shops out here but they won't do it. The two pully's are about 100mm apart both welded to either end of a pipe. Small one at top bigger one at the bottom. Top one is 22mm id and the pipe is quiet a bigger id with a washer welded inside about half way down. When you slide the pully on the shaft it bottoms out on the washer and you feed the bolt up from the bottom in a socket with extension and tighten.

I did ask if they could make another pulley and they said if i can find two steel pully's the right size yes. Can't find any @#$#@##.

The ebay motor would be perfect and say's it suits lawn and rideon mowers but they can't confirm if it has the heavy flywheel.

I'm sure that ebay Briggs is fine, wouldn't think it would have a light wheel.

It is a Briggs and Stratton 8.5 hp motor.

Yeah thinking cast would be cheaper than alloy so they would probably of used cast. There are a couple on ebay for $160 to $170 plus postage which if it didn't work out for that price would look good sitting on the work bench lol. The Briggs 675 is $410 will think about it.

Sorry Power Torque guy which motor are you talking about?

Here is another one you could check out.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW-4-STROKE-ENGINE-with-Clutch-OHV-PTO-suits-21-honda-/282123606694?hash=item41afe09aa6:g:TJAAAOSwzJ5XfG4c

Yup they have really short shafts. Pulled the neighbours blade off his honda self propelled motor because i knew where i could get an identical motor but has really short shaft and checked two other possible honda motors and also very short shafts.

The closest Briggs I can find is the 121S02-2005-F1 @ 3100 rpm or 121S12-2008-F1 @ 3800 rpm. The crank on the 121607 Type 0152-A1 is .8735 inch diameter. The length wasn't specified in the crank drawings.

Now the 121S02 and 121S12 crankshafts are .875 inch diameter and the length is spec at 3-5/32 inch. Both these engines have heavy flywheels. So you to ream the pulley center some and may need to shorten the crankshaft some; unless, you the additional clearance.

Now didn't look to see these are fixed speed engine or variable but this should at least give you a start point for your research.

So can I just verify, if you had a pulley set with the small one at the top and an internal diameter of the pipe at 1" all the way, you could fit it on the 5HP you have there, even if it meant making a short shim sleeve for the 22mm section? Because if you can, I have one like that here. Alternatively, you already have the two steel pulleys you need, you just have to cut them off the piece of pipe then the machine shop could easily open out the diameter of the pulley then put them on a new piece of pipe for you.

The top of the pully ID is 22mm. The 15mm or so that you can see sticking out the top is 70mm long and has a hole in the end for a bolt to bolt up to the motor shaft. The pipe you can see holding the two pully's apart is welded to the bottom pully and big enough ID to slide over the pipe from the top pully right up to the top pully and welded (sleeved).

Every spare motor i have here has a stepped shaft 22mm to 25mm so cant use them. The motor that came out of the Yardman had a straight not stepped shaft 22mm. Yardman motor shaft was 70mm long and all my spare motors are the same 70mm but stepped.

What a pain

The tube between the two pully's has a bigger OD bit hard to see but it slides over the tube coming down from the top pully and is welded to the bottom of the top pully.
Put the bolt in a socket with extension and feed up through the centre of the bottom pully and tighten.

Plenty of ways to skin a cat, but it requires a good workshop and somebody prepared to have a go but as you are in QLD, not much I could do to help

Yeah no one really want's to even have a go. Finding it hard even to find these pully's. Their tinny type pully's and the new style are cast heavy with fancy inserts that lock on to shafts. The tube that is welded to both pully's is a tinny thin tube. The tube that is part of the top pully is quiet thick walled with key way.

Was told even if i cut the tube in half they can't machine the pully out from 22mm to 25mm because the cutter would catch the key way and damage the cutter. Find that hard to believe.

So try and find a motor to suit shaft, modify the pully or make a new one.

I recon if i can find pully's the tube would be no problem and get a guy to mig it up and problem solved. NOW SEARCHING FOR PULLY'S (pulley's spelt properly i have been told lol)