OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Collectors Corner Ride On Rover Colt 5

I have a colt 8 mostly complete with some parts missing off the engine
it was running as my dad used it to do the lawn then it started playing up and he pulled it apart and it's been sitting downstairs under the house since
got a few other mowers as well a Victa push mower it is running as I got the mower shop to give it a once over to see if anything major was wrong and it only had some very minor issues so got it sorted ,runs well for a 2 stroke, the other is a MTD and as far as I know it does not run yet,it's over at the mower place getting the once over if it's too far gone I'll try and sell as parts only.
now the ride on when running did a good job ,though brakes don't work on it ,he had a guy do the motor several years back ,last time my dad was talking about it before he died last year he said something about it needed the pulley's changed over and I think it was still running then but he pulled it apart abd it been in bits since ,it would be good to get it running again as I have a fairly large yard to mow usually takes about 2 hours to mow it with the push mower

So what actually is the point of your post? Are you looking for someone to rebuild it?, advice on how to do it yourself?, or looking for manuals or parts?, or just letting us know what you are up to?

turns out it's not a colt8 it's the 5 going by the diagrams of front end as the 8 is slightly different, so far have replaced front wheel bearings and put front end back together doing the back next, the engine that was in photo is going to be trashed as can't get any parts for it and it's not the right engine for it ,will have to find a 5 hp B& s engine, well could have fitted the 8 hp if it had had all the missing parts though don't know if it runs .so not worth all the hassle easier to find another engine complete and drop it in.
nearly had a complete mower with running motor for $250

Hello fixin-it

The 206cc cowl definitely relates to 5HP.
The original Colts were powered by 4hp (10 Series) and 5hp (13 Series) Briggs.
In the 1980s this was upgraded to 5hp (13 Series) and 8hp (19 Series).

Please keep us informed on progress.

---------------------------
Jack

as it turns out I am going to look at a mower over the wkend its a colt 5 complete and running ,sounds like a good buy ,this way i'll have one for spares and a runner ,and keep trying to find another engine for my mower ,got thr rear axle off but the hubs (inner half)won't budge ,and as for the old engine well might have to see if any other carby combo will fit ,same with air filter assy, just another option.

You can pick up brand new 6hp motors from Ballarat for $160

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321221293211?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

anyone tried stripping down the rear axle on the colt 5
how did you end up getting the inner hub off ?
this one's on tight and won't budge not even with a puller ,
I did go and look at the other mower but and there's always a but, it was difficult to start, had the wrong type of fuel tank leaking fuel from carby, so decided not to go with it, instead went with the above suggestion and got a new engine for it.

They are always super tight, rusted on, keep up the penetrene, try some heat, hammer it where you can get at it with the puller up tight, hammer the end of the puller, more penetrene, more hammering, sand the shaft clean in front of the hub, eventually it will start to move, work it back and forth, more penetrene.

well got the hubs off,But,one sheared off so will have to find another inner hub
it was the drive side that sheared off could have already been damaged and when I put the puller on it ,it finished it off for good
they were tight the other side came off even all the way out
so part required is A01713 wheel hub

well took the damaged hub over to sheetmetal welding shop to see if it can be repaired,the guy had a good look at it and said maybe,it will depend on if the first weld takes or not,if it does then they will be able to repair it if not I'll have to keep hunting for another rear hub for it.
see what happens.

update

ooops hit wrong key,
back to photo's above
I have been trying to get the flange bearings off so the wheel bearings can get replaced so far not moving used half can of rust penetrating lube I got and good rub down with emery paper and wire brush got the grub screws out
I am beginning to think these may be pressed on
and while I was there I noticed that the jockey wheel under the deck is missing so I'll take a trip up to the old bloke to see if, he has one.


computer locked me out yesterday took all day to get back into the damn thing
total pain in the neck but got in .
beat it.
and before I get asked what the piece pf bubble wrap[ hanging down it's on the crankshaft of the new motor

Not pressed on they are rusted on, you have to get the lock collar to move and in some cases the only way is with a bearing puller that hooks in between the collar and the bearing. You may get it to move with a cold chisel by trying to split it through the grub screw hole, this will start to expand it but it means you would need to get new ones. Lift the motor off again and tip the mower upside down, easier to work on

had a small win with getting part of the flangette bearing off ,the one in second pic
above,(in update) I took the whole rear end to a small engineering firm a one man shop, he took one look at the set up and said that the hole opposite the one with the grub screw are what he called centrifugal ,think that's what he called them ,he got a long pointed item like a centre punch but bigger length wise put it in hit it a few times and it came off with no problem what so ever ,the one he did say there will be a problem with is the one that's part of the disc brake could be very tricky to get off, though he did say if I get stuck just bring it in and he'll put some heat on it and try to get it off with out damaging it,so I am getting there slowly ,it would have helped more if the manual rover had on the colt 5 gave details of how these parts come apart and in what order,but then that would be too easy.
Life wasn't meant to be easy .

Well progress has been a bit slow but there is light at the end of the tunnel , the rear axle is already to go back in got it back from the engineering place after work today , they done a top job on it more than I expected ,not only did they strip it down they cleaned it , regrease everything and fitted the new wheel bearings as seen in the photo's so it's ready to go back into the mower ,might do it this wk/end,then can start toying around with fitting the new engine ,
shouldn't be to big a hassle just have to modify the back of the seat corners ,also got a new seat, then there's the pulley that the john (in Kirwan ) gave me it's a bit bigger than the original so will that affect the v belt or would I be better off trying to round off the damaged bits on the original and then refit it?
it' only the outer edge that's damaged

Looking good, one bit at a time and eventually you will get there. Put up a pic of the pullet so we can see what you are talking about. The bigger pulley may fit, depend on how much adjustment there is in the belt tensioner

here are some shots of the pulley's the one on the left is the old one (damaged) I did take it into work and rounded off the sharper edges at the damaged areas only .
the pulley on the right is the bigger pulley

the belt tensioner is another problem there isn't one,so I went up to see old john in Kirwan and he's got to colt 5's coming in to him in the next 2 weeks some I may be able to get the tensioner off one of them.

The one on the left I would say is out of the question. Are the bore sizes the same one looks bigger than the other. The bigger pulley should be ok but you may need slightly bigger belts. Do you have to original belts to check it with?

Well dragged the mower out into the yard and gave it a degrease underneath hosed off cleaned up well
it was originally blue as was the deck
then someone painted it red and black for deck
and as it's already half stripped just considering a complete strip down and get it re painted or sand blasted and the powder coat it. ,as most of existing paint underside is peeling off and will start the rust off .