OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines rebuilding a 125

I have 2 Victa 125 motors I want to rebuild, one is siezed the other starts on starter fluid but won't run.I'm thinking seals on this one, it also feels not too flash in the bearings. With the siezed one, any tips or tricks in getting it apart. Getting the barrel off without too much damage?I'm assuming when run on straight fuel the sieze is in the piston. What am I likely to find with the big end, any tips or tricks here? Big end bearing are they available? Does it require a new crank pin? Anything special about the seals, are they obtainable. Lots of questions I may find answers to when I pull them down tomorrow
Thanks Norm

53 views and not one bit of advice????

No expert but I'll give it a shot. WD40 has saved me many a headache with seized engines. Take ou the plug and give it an almighty squirt down the plug hole for a few seconds. Stand the donk on its nose, head facing to the sky and let it sit over night.

Next day try and turn her over just a little, backwards and forwards - any movement at all and you're making progress. Repeat the process for a couple of days. I've had success after one night and also after as long as four.

A lot of guys have their own opinion on which fluid to use - everything form molasses to diesel, but WD40 always done the job for me.

Once you've got movement in the piston, remove the head, then WD40 the hell out of the barrel nuts. They are dry mounted so rarely give any grief.

Once the barrels away you'll be able to give the conrod a bloody good pull/push to see how much play there is. Also rotate the crank and listen to how the bearings sound.

As far as seals go, if the bottom seal is shot, there will usually be an almighty mess on the lower crank case half. Another check you can do is rotate the crank before dismantling for a compression test. You should hit two points of resistance on each rotation. The second weaker point will indicate how well the seals are performing - no resistance and it's time for new seals. Seals are still obtainable but watch that you get the correct internal andexternal diameter correct. The guys at Outdoor King will help I'm sure - just message them on the website.

Bearing sets can be found quite easily. FarmerJ on ebay does them.

As I said, I'm just a tinkerer, and there are plenty of experts here that would disagree with me but that's my 2 cents - hope it helps.

Gee thanks Bestseller, was beginning to think I had the plauge or something. Do you know if there is anything special about 2 stroke bearings and seals or can I just get them from my local bearing shop. I had planned to pull this motor down a few days ago but life has got in the way again

Hi NormK,
You will have no problem with obtaining the bearings and seals from your local bearing shop, any good established mower shop would have the gaskets and spark plug/points if needed for a Victa 125. I have unseized a few engines, if it's just the rings stuck in the bore there ok. If it's water in the crankcase just move on unless your desperate. You can't replace the larger conrod bearing without splitting the crank and that requires real effort.

Good luck and keep us informed, a lot of the views that you may get on a post are from non members so don't become disheartened :-)

Hi Paul, what is involved in splitting the crank, I have done countless Enfield motorcycle single cylinder cranks. I have a press and lathe and can jig them up. This one is not a water problem I believe it was caused by not using 2 stroke fuel. Not sure if this causes a top or bottom end lock up. I was only being a bit funny about all the views
I also have another one that will fire on starter fluid but will not run, this leads me to believe that it might be seals preventing it to be able to draw fuel in

I second that one. There also a few that interested in what going some these engine as your repairs unfolds will help us to better our repair abilities too. Personally I have never seen a Victa in person and probably never will being the US.

Most of my two cycle work is with handhelds are usually destroyed when straight gassed. On the more expensive models I usually try get the piston assembly as lower in the cylinder barrel so I can split the crankcase and get the rod cap retaining bolts.

I do know that here straight gassing usually does quite a bit of cylinder damage but simple struck rings from carbon build up can also be pain to get a part sometimes. It will take lots time and patience working with back and forth movement. Once you it get it part the worse is usually over with.

I just spend over 9 hours removing the front differential (final drive) out of a Kawasaki 750 ATV just to replace it later after it is rebuilt. What a pain get to along all the rusted hardware.

AVB, thanks, I know about rusted bolts etc, I have been repairing old motorcycles for many years. Biggest problem with most of those is hamfisted repairs by previous owners, in particular Enfields that have been "repaired/restored" in India by Indians. I am never failed to be amazed as to how they can totally damage/destroy pretty much every component they have touched

Ok so I got a chance to split the cases and it has had water in it. I am going to split a motor off a utility and fit that crank,rod,piston and barrel into the earlier cases and use the original head.This way it keeps the correct engine number. Inlet port is the larger diameter, is there a thinner sleve I can get so I can use the original carb or do I have to make one, if so what material should I use? The only other downside is that the barrel does not have the bolt on transfer ports but I doubt anybody would notice this seeing it is an early sixties model first of the utilities.

I got the piston out yesterday, my 12 ton press was at about its full limit before it let go and it had to be pushed all the way. Bore looks surprisingly unmarked. What did interest me was the 2 sets of cases I split had a lot of rubbish inside them, I'm wondering if this is normal, rather odd. Anyway I will swap cranks, fit new bearings and seals and get it running and then decide what to do with it, do I paint it or just leave it the way it is