OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames Greenfield 11Hp 21 Anniversary Model

Ok guys I need some help here. I've got an old 11HP 21 Anniversary model Greenfield ride on that needs some work.

So far i've had to strip this thing down to the very last bolt, and I mean quite literally down to the last bolt. Nothing is left bolted together so I have a million parts in the garage at the moment.

Now my biggest problem isn't getting all of this back together, that's the easy part, my problem is trying to find all the bearing sizes and numbers, replacement belts and a few other parts such as cork drive discs etc etc.

Now I know its an 11HP 21 Anniversary Model, its got an 11 HP B&S engine and im assuming its about a 28 - 30" deck. Also as soon as I find out how to upload photos i'll upload some photos of the billion pieces of this poor old mower for you guys to see.

Essentially what i'm undertaking with this is an entire rebuild less the engine. Engine runs fine, no smoke, starts first or second pull so pretty happy there. Everything else is being done, body work, all bearings, all bushes, de-scaling the entire chassis/frame of rust, priming, repainting, panelbeating etc so this is a fairly big job which im hoping to complete within a month or two parts pending.

Any other info you guys may need from me to help me find the parts I need just let me know.

Cheers.

Edit - I looked up the serial on the B&S engine and nothing comes up on their website. The engine serial number is 255707-0422-01-87092431 and the chassis number is 8365 F.


Luke

Are sure it isn't 255707-0122-01?

Thought that myself but it certainly appears to be a 4 to me. Have a look for yourself.

There is a full illustrated parts list for the Anniversary 12-32 in the Manuals section. I can't tell you how similar that is or isn't to yours, though.

Thanks Grumpy. I've contacted greenfield and they've supplied me with two manuals for the 8 and 11Hp Anniversary Model and for a 12-32 model aswell. I'll be printing these out later on today and working out what parts I require from greenfield and what I can source myself through our contracted bearing supplier at work.

Fingers crossed this project doesn't become a black hole for money! Majority of the work I will do myself. I've got to face off all the drive disks as they're all galled up from having no cork left on the plates. I'll spin up all shafts in my lathe and correct any high spots and polish them up.

This thing is essentially a 'ground up' rebuild.

If those are full owner manuals, not just parts lists, could you send them to me attached to a Private Message please? We have a reasonable range of IPLs, but I think only one full owner manual, and that is for a later model.

Grumpy, just spoke to Greenfield again, they don't even have any copies of the original owners manuals. All they have left literature wise is just the parts lists.

Seems also that my particular mower has been through a few upgrades over the years. Majority of it still runs the standard 11Hp setup however some parts have been changed to the 12Hp parts like hand brake for instance. The standard 11HP Anniversary model runs a park brake disc with notches in it. Mine runs the allow drum brake version which was standard on the 12HP but retrofitted to the 11HP after a certain month. Also things like the flanged bearings etc are different.

This is really doing my head in having to consult two different schematics for one mower!! Haha!

Okay, silly question. Has anyone replaced the drive axle bearings in this model without going through dealerships and buying genuine bearings?

I'm trying to work out what the bearing code is for these bearings so I can just order them from the bearing supplier so it'll be cheaper. Best I can work out so far is that the drive axle bearings are, and this is just in SKF brand, a YEL-205-2F bearing.

Anyone come across this??

Do you mean the bearings usually used on the clutch shaft, with the extended inner race with grub screws through it?

If so, these are known as the 'set screw mounted' bearing type. Yes, they are available through bearing specialists. NSK make a range of them, among others. You'll need to determine the type number, stamped on the edge of the outer race. Or go by the dimensions.

But unless you can get them at trade price, Greenfield may be OK on price, and certainly less mucking around.

You might find THIS Greenfield drive rebuild thread useful. The ODK online shop can supply the belts and probably the clutch cork facings - there are a couple of different sizes.

Gadge, I'm definitely going to have to replace all belts and the drive cork liners. Not much left there if any.

As for the bearings I'm pretty sure we get a better price than greenfield would get from our bearing suppliers. I don't know how but some of the discounts we get from some suppliers makes me wonder if they make any money of them at all!!

I've come across these bearings before through jobs at work. However I generally deal with larger, much larger bearings than 1" shafts! I was just hoping that someone had a bearing number I could cross check to make sure I had the right one.

Interestingly though is that the clutch shaft bearings operate the set screw mounting for its bearings yet the drive axle bearings use the eccentric collar method to locate the bearings inner race. Why use two types?! Doesn't make much sense to use the same bearing that allows for a certain amount of misalignment but change your actual clamping method! Strange.

Okay so update time.

So far it's only taken me a week, and that's been purely weekends and after work in the evenings to get some work done. I've stripped the entire mower down to pieces and I mean quite literally to the very last bolt. Nothing was left assembled.

I then went through the process of working out what was stuffed and what was salvageable. All bearings were replaced as they should be on a rebuild like this so axle, clutch and all idler pulleys were either replaced or refurbed.

All components from the base chassis to pitman arms, steering rods etc were hit with a needle gun to remove as much rust as possible and all parts were painted with a red oxide coating to ensure that even after final painting any surface that is unreachable is still protected from corrosion. All bolts were cleaned, threads inspected etc and either considered good or replaced. All bushes were done with the same.

I did run into a few problems however. Seems some moron who owned or repaired this mower at some stage prior to my Inlaws owning it decided it would be in the best interests to cut, and I mean quite literally cut, the support bracket that bolts the from beam axel on, off from the reduction pulley frame. This resulted, once all back together and free moving, an extreme and I mean extreme amount of flex in the entire front end which was noticeable right through to the steering. I couldn't leave it this way so I welded it all back on.

I also found the solid bar or tie rod between both front wheels to have nearly in excess of 20mm of free play in the bushes which would allow the two steer wheels to point in almost opposite directions. Rather than make a new bar and do all the bending and slotting of the old one I just found a nut the same size as the bolts that connect the bar to the spindles, drilled it through so it was a nice slightly oversize fit for this bolt and welded it to the bar as a form of bush which has now settled the steering problem.

I've replaced the drive corks on both forwards and reverse plates, selector bearing and also shimmed to remove as much slop out of the pedal as possible. I've also adjusted the tie rod for this too so I can wind it in to adjust in future for free play. I've test run the machine and it drives great but noticed that in reverse it make a hell of a noise because the shaft wasn't fully in the right position which allowed for the drive plate to smash into the selector fork support frame when reverse was selected. I adjusted the shaft but it continued to do this so I shaved about 5mm off the upper plate to allow plenty of clearance but still do its job right. I know not necessarily the right thing to do but there was no way around this as the amount of shim that were in the clutch was the minimum I could have without the thing driving itself with no neutral.

Anyway all this work has been done, next step is to tidy up the engine and electrics, engine runs great, need to tidy up all the old grease and dirt etc and give it a lick of paint, then rebuild the cutter deck and then panel beat the guards and respray. I'm waiting to hear back from Greenfield as to wether they have a sticker set for this or any of their mowers of wether I need to get them custom made. Also if anyone wants to know I used a Dulux Red Oxide primer for all parts and the base frame was painted with Dulux Metalshield Epoxy Enamel in gloss black and I'll be using the same for the exterior and deck also. A very easy one part paint to use, I don't use thinners to spray so it went on rather thick which allowed me to get enough paint into seams and panel joins to seal up to mitigate water ingress. Very happy with the results from this enamel paint. I would normally use a 2 pac paint like Dulux Durebuild for anything that's out in the weather or submerged but for an enamel this paint is pretty [Censored] close to what I expect of the Durebuild so far.

Anyway here's some pics. I didn't quite photograph the whole venture but I'm sure you get the idea.

An interesting project Sparky, and well worth-while if you are keeping the mower for your own use.

I didn't really follow what was wrong with the drive clutch mechanism causing you to turn some of the clutch plate off to get clearance, so I can't say there was a better way, but I hope there was: that is pretty desperate stuff.

Grumpy, It was a fairly desperate move i'll tell you!! To have to take a 5" grinder to something that should never change is definately desperate!

The problem was as the drive plates slid over to engage the forwards driven plate, the reverse drive plate on the backside, so the face that is on the selector bearing side, was smashing into the support frame for the selector fork. It still drove fine but it would just make this loud smashing noise which no one would put up with. If I removed or added anymore shims to the clutch pack it would have been far too sloppy on the pedal for anyones liking and the cork liners would have been engaged almost constantly and just prematurely wear down. I could have spun the drive plates up in the lathe but I really couldn't be bothered making a mandrel to suit the square shaft!!

Hopefully this picture shows you what I cut back. It hasn't and won't affect the structural integrity of anything so i'm not overly concerned that I had to cut it back.




So while i'm at it i'll do another quick update. I've got the engine 90% refurbished, a decent coat of paint in Dulux Metalsheild QD enamel in Signal Red. Looked the closest to an original B&S red that I could find. Just have the fuel tank straps and the starter motor to do and the engine is done. The plastic throwout gear on the starter motor is stripped badly so i'll have to chase a new one of those. Also when I was removing the covers on the engine to remove all the old wildlife and dirt from within I noticed the positive wire from the alternator/generator had deteriorated and been shorting out on the crankcase. So I removed the flywheel and the generator and repaired the wiring, cleaned and reassembled all of it. Also gave the generator a quick coat of Isonel Clear spray varnish just to give it that bit of extra protection on the coils.

I've now got the engine bolted back down onto the chassis and thats the last time it comes off!! Unless it fails or whatever. Fixed my handbrake after I found a few pics of some machines on here to see what was required. So hopefully tomorrow i'll attack some of the guards and get some new paint on those. I've stuck with the Dulux Metalshield Epoxy Enamel for the body and chosen Golden Yellow for the color. Seems to be the closest I can find to original color in that range. I emailed Greenfield to see if they had any stickers available at all to replace the important ones such as cutter in/out, E Brake etc but got given a rather rude response and told very bluntly no theres nothing. So i'll take photos of the ones that are left and see if I can get them made somewhere.

Anyway heres some photos. Enjoy.

I agree that if you haven't taken much off, it should do no harm, but it must be the result of wear or a missing part along that clutch axle, between the two disks.

That machine is coming along nicely: congratulations.

Fully agree with you Grumpy, you should never have to cut material off to allow things to clear. I did look into what parts had too much wear etc but couldnt easily track it down.

At this point I don't see why you couldn't just put spacers between the disks and the clutch thrust bearing, then back off the nuts on the ends of the shaft to suit. I don't see why that would affect size of the correct shim stacks, since it allows both plates of each clutch to move outward. No doubt Gadge will sort me out if I'm full of prunes on this.

True, but I'd exhausted all my shims taking up the slack.

I also believe that this support bracket for the drive idler pullers and the selector fork has also been repaired at some stage. So whoever repaired it welded on a price of steel larger than the original thus reducing the amount of clearance. I believe this is more the case than any sort of misalignment because the plate was actually welded on crooked not straight.

I noticed the crooked welding - it was the main reason I didn't feel badly about you grinding the sides of the bracket.

All good grumpy, good to throw other ideas out there as to what may have been the cause, makes me think about looking at other components but once I noticed the average crooked weld I knew what was wrong. I'm no expert welder but I can weld fairly straight so lead me to believe that it was a novice or a repair shop that didn't want to spend much time on it. The mower was originally bought by my I laws second hand for $800 from an agricultural dealership and I've seen this particular stores repair work first hand so I'm fairly certain they fixed it.

All that aside when I get home I'll reassemble the freshly painted guards and upload some more pictures for you all to see.

The nuts pull the inner races in the clutch pulley bearings hard against the drive shaft shoulders I think, grumpy. So it wouldn't just be a matter of backing the nuts off; shims between the shoulders and races would be needed. I'd say equal shim thickness on both sides would be necessary, too. Then the clutch discs would need to be shimmed, to suit the wider pulley spacing.