OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Reel Lawn Mowers, Atco & Villiers etc. Atco Drive Drum

Hi all,
I'm relisting the topic in the hope that someone can help me with the problem.
The drive drum rotates anticlockwise and engages the pawls on the drive drum. I assume that when you disengage the clutch and pull reverse back the rachets allow the drum to reverse?.
I cannot work out how to setup the spring loaded pawls, can anyone help me with this setup?
Thanks.

Pedro,

Those ratchets act like a diff so that when you are turning the machine it does not dig up the turf.

When you disengage the clutch the drum free wheels so that you can drag it back. If you are unable to pull back on the machine then it is a clutch problem.

Thanks for the response.
The clutch is working OK.
I've had the rear drum split during the refurbish as it was in a mess with mud water damage etc.
When I split the drum, the rachets obviously fell apart. I can only see it being assembled one way?.
The drive shaft gear through the drums ca only be assembled one way, but what I'm questioning is how the rachet pawls are positioned on the drive gear.
The machine drives ok, can turn left or right and the corresponding drum will freewheel, but I can't pull the mower back because the pawls lock the drive shaft.
I was hoping that you might have a drawing of this assembly.
Regards,
Peter

Pedro,

Are you sure that you have not put the internal sprocket on incorrectly?

As the pawls are spring loaded from memory and when you pull the machine backwards you should hear them clicking over the gear. They should only lock in when driving.

Hi Bruce,
I'm quite sure I replaced the internal sprocket as it was when I split the drums. (as per the pic in previous post).
Unless someone before me had it out and changed it, it was installed as when I dismantled. I tried reversing the sprocket and it allows you to pull back on the mower with ease over the "clicking pawls". However, you don't have any drive from the gear chain??.
It freewheels?. There has to be some basic thing with the rachet bits that I am overlooking, but I'm going nuts trying to figure it out. One day it will probably click with me.
Pedro

Pedro,

I was talking to a friend today that has used the Atco mowers for over 50 years and is still using the them today and we both have come to the conculssion that the clutch could be the problem. When you pull the machine back the clutch section nearest the chain side should spin freely(when not in the engaged position).

Can you upload a picture of the clutch assembly?

Bruce,
This is the only shot I have right now but if you zoom in it might be clear enough.
Thanks.

Peter,

When you have the clutch disengaged is it easy to spin the chain side of the shaft? :Wavey:

Bruce,
I have re-assembled the drive drum which I believe is now OK.
I had to use a lot of downward pressure on the mower when pulling backwards to get the clutch spinning.
Have checked the pawls in the cutting cylinder and there are operating OK, As I continued to repeat the action going backwards, it appeared to become easier. How much free travel is in the clutch operation?. There doesn't appear to be much between in contact and release?. One other thing, is it a dry clutch (in terms of lubrication between the cone surface).
I am convinced that your friend and yourself are right about the reversing process now so I guess I will check all gear trains etc tomorrow to achieve maximum freedom of operation.
Thanks for your help.
Pedro

Peter,

On the clutch shaft you have a collar that adjust the spring pressure on the clutch(on left hand side when you are behind the mower). Try releaving that so that you can get a bit more play. I think that you have about 3-4 positions for the tension.

Also make sure that your chain is not to tight that goes from the clutch to the cutting cylinder as that will cause you problems as well when pulling the machine in a backwards direction(you need about 1/2"play on chain).

Bruce,
Sorry for the late reply.
Not sure what you mean about the collar adjustment?.
There is a taper pin that holds the collar in position which backs onto the spring on the shaft.
Are you saying that there are additional holes in the shaft that you can choose to adjust spring tension?.
Looking at the clutch lever, I assumed that the clutch was adjusted by the double threaded bolt that goes through the side plate of the mower?.
Hope that makes sense?.
Pedro

Pedro,

The picture below shows the collar(check arrow point) that I am talking about, it should have pin through the shaft and when you turn it, it adjust the tension on the spring.

The correct adjustment on the clutch is usually about 1/2" (picture shown below) of play before it starts to disengage (play at top of the handle).

Bruce,
Thanks for your wisdom.
I have attached a pic of the clutch with a couple of comments for your perusal.
Regards,
Pedro.

Sorry, resend larger for type.
Pedro

Pedro,

That does not look like original setup for that clutch. I will run it by the person that made them tomorrow.