OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers My new acquisitions

Here are my first Victa 18's that I have acquired for my collection. Both Model 5's I believe. They both have letters before the engine numbers, does this mean that they are a later model 5? Possibly 2nd model, not sure. If so do they have any meaning? I mean I have seen on here A, AA, AAA, and now AC. Blumbly or Blue can you explain please. Anyway I am absolutely stoked. I was so excited, that when I finished work, I worked on one immediately. LOL.
I'll upload more pictures soon of the different components. Could you guys help me out on what correct parts I need to properly complete these please.

Here is first: With short snorkle:




2nd Victa with long snorkle:





So I started working on the Victa with the short snorkle, Took out tank, completely flushed fuel tank, cleaned carburetor, new fuel line, cleaned out tap.



Then I noticed all the wasp nests in the engine cooling fins, so I got to work cleaning them:



After all cleaned, checked for spark, had very strong spark so I left the points alone for now (just wanted to see if it ran), installed new plug. And fired right up!
First Victa 18 I have worked on and I enjoyed every bit of it. Just have to fix fuel tap leak and bowl on carburetor. I think it's a good start to my early collection.
Got some more mowers coming soon I hope. I am soon to pick up an auto soon hopefully, sshh don't tell Jonsey.

Ha Ha no good on ya James, I will try and let you know what I know about them, the one with the short snorkle is a model 5 series 2 with a later model engine No, as far as I know the series 2 did not have any letters in the engine No and I think also the series 1 which is the one you have with the long snorkle, the series 2 does not have the axel extensions on the front and back which were left over from the model 4 run (for the flap to hinge in) the series 2 should have the long snorkle but I think some of the last run series 2 got the short one as the series 3 was being releast (no edger groove in the base) both have correct starters on them and the series 1 starter could have been a wire rope starter???. cant see to much else I can tell you from those pics, good luck with the Model 4.

Thanks for that Jonesy (not jonsey). That all makes clear sense to me, except one thing. You said series 1 and 2 do not have letters in the engine number. I'm not understanding this as mine both have letters. But at least I can identify which series they are.

What that means James is that some time in the life of your mowers somebody has changed the engines to that later series. Now your series 2 could well be correct as during this run was where the numbers changed to having letters in front. However the series 1 defiantly has had the later engine put on it.

Hi James,
Great score,and im so happy...Your Happy! lols. I cant see the front of the base on the first mower,( or im blind,lols) The IAAA....But I agree with blumbly.

I would put the IAAA.... at the very late end of the model 5 run,VERY late series 2 possibly even series 3,I assume it has the flush front axle mounts?. It should have. Since it still has the edger groove and assuming its the original engine for this base,then yes VERY late model 5 series 2. (If its the series 1 base,then its incorrect). Also somewhere in the mid to late model 5 series 2 run,the number and letter stamping changed. Note the A" as an EG, is sharper and doesnt have its feet like the earlier stamping. This is how you tell the later engines,from the serial sequence,the stamping and the generally smoother cast crank cases.

The AC.... As Blumbly says,unfortunately is incorrect for this series 1 base. Going of lettering/stamping and sequence I would place this as an early to mid run model 5 series 2 engine. Should be Flush front axle mounts. For this mower id try to find an engine with the serial number between say 200,000 and 300,000 generally coded 5 on the lower. If your particular about originality

Enjoy your new toys James.!!!

So I've decided to strip down my model 5 series 2 engine off my series 1 base. I doing a full rebuild and restore. So hopefully it will come up ok for a first time restoration on a 125.
At the moment I am polishing the engine. Don't have any pictures yet, but soon.





Just wanted to show you the parts that I have ready for it. (and some future restorations too). Everything is new excpet piston which i am re-using, as it is in very good condition. More pics to come.

Good stuff James, looks like you are set to go, where are you buying your bits as $4 for the exhaust base gasket is good buying.

Awesome! Cant wait to see your efforts on the Crankcase.... Youll do an awesome Job! Enjoy yourself.

Jonesy I will not mention publicly on this forum where I got my spares from because I always encourage members to support Bruce and this great site we have here by purchasing from his online store. This way we can hopefully keep this great forum we have here going, and never become inactive. After all Bruce was the one that started all of this and if I advertise other stores and places to get parts, then I am not showing my full support for him.

Thanks Blue for the support, I just hope it will come out half as good as your restorations.

Well here are the results. I thought it came out very good for a first attempt. Also have blasted and painted the barrel. Need to polish port covers and head next. Maybe then can start to re-assemble.

Hi James and on an great job thus far....good stuff mate.

Great work James looks great and keep the photos coming

How did you polish it to get it like this?

Are you going to clear coat this baby to stop tarnish Or will it maintain its luster?

Cheers mick

Thanks guys.
Mick, this being my first time polishing cast alloy I was really trying different things to get this result.
Firstly I washed the parts in a parts washer then blew to dry, cleaned them next with brass wire brush. This cleaned any dirt off and started to sort of polish which was good. Next I used a buff on my drill with compound for alloy. Slowly went back and forth until I was happy with the shine, adding the compound regularly. Finally finishing with a polishing cloth to get any small remaining bits of compound left in the metal. Now I know this might not be the way everyone does it but I am always open for suggestions to improve.

As for the clear coat well I will be clear coating the hardware (nuts, bolts), but I am unsure about clear coating the engine yet. This engine wont be going on a mower for some time, as I am doing this for a practice. It's just going to be a show piece for now, lol. Not going outside at all. But if anyone has any thoughts on this I'd like to know. Thanks

Sexy

Looking good.
When doing alloy use reducing grades of wet&dry.
then when you're at 800 or so go to a high grade polish.
I use Mothers almost exclusively but that's me.
For metal it's hard to beat AutoSol.
Get some Auto 2 pack and coat them ASAP or they'll dull to battleship grey in a few months.
Preserve the shine. Some things I'll leave raw but they are bits I intend to polish regularly. The clear will keep it trick and make cleaning easy.
2 pack will cope with the heat fron the crankcase but do barrels and heads in heatproof expoy (VHT or similar).
VHT engine coat comes in many colours so you can get a good look.

2K has worked for me on blocks and heads in cars but be careful as the raw metal finish dissipates heat better. For my 20c's I'd just run it a little bit richer so it doesn't get so hot and go for the look.

Rgds
B

I forgot to add that if you want a mirror finish then W&D down to 2000 and then polish. A clear coat is essential as it will dull in weeks without continual polishing. I like to get a finish and wait for it to dull and then do a final polish before clear. I think taking that last oxide off the polished metal gives some extra bling. Brasso and silvo work well almost as well as Autosol.
I keep a tube of Autosol in my main kit for uick buff ups on the show cars.
Don't paint nuts and bolts, it chips off. Get them plated or use cap screws.
Use 2K or epoxy on tinware and bases, bars etc.

Engine enamel or 2k for crankcase
Hi-temp for barrels and head. (you might get away with engine enamel if it's not run hard)
Killrust type epoxy for almost everything else or powdercoat if you want to spend the coin.
Auto acrylic for any features (bars, fittings etc.)is good but priming is essential and polishing after paint is the key to a good look.

I'll be using 7 different paints for my new hot rod utility.
Plus acid dipping, sand blasting, flap wheel, wire wheel and good old fashioned elbow grease for prep.

Excellence is a hard won battle.

Good luck
It's looking great so far.

B