OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers My new Victa's 18

Thanks Blue, I just hope I can do it justice! So do you have any idea what the alloy part in pics is for? Also, do you think with an engine number in the low 117 thousands, the correct starter for my mower is the later type with the exposed screw?

Sorry which alloy part? Stupid phone I missed a few posts, yours has the flap not jonesys,my appologies as I based my comments on his early model( but yours is still the same just later and maybee a TINY bit less in value,when its all complete,but id say negligable as they are all so rare...Ok Ive caught up Now I think lols. Please show me the part if you dont mind. Correct starter for yours is locknut with exposed pin. Sticker colour for early predicta (jonesies) concord/green/red. Now you need check what year they moved to milperra as I cant recall off hand as it is then full red. But im sure all predictas were concord,so green/red, others may know for sure. Also ill do some checking as your 117,000 may be the last predicta as this is where they crossed to the model 4 special/std where they ran approx 10,000 with left over bases, auto badges and starters,right up until the model 3 started at around 128,000. So I cannot be certain 100% yours was/a factory predicta....but I think it might just be inside the run....Check with Blumbly as I think his is a later version and you may be able to use his as a better example for accuracy.

"Which alloy part?" The one in the last two images I posted, sitting next to a couple of springs.

Cheers for clarifying the starter issue up for me. The search begins to find one now lol

Interesting stuff regarding the serial number. I was under the impression the Predicta's ran into the mid 118,000's, so I hope she sneaks in. If you're out there Blumby, can you shed some light ?!

Yes between 117 and 118,000 but i dont know anyone who knows for sure. But most are of this opinion...Im just a little wary when they get up to this number as ive seen many fakes and people who still dispute they went up to 127,000-128,000 which is definately INCORRECT.....There are other ways to clarify,but im sure yours is a Predicta.

Well, Well, Well lets just throw another spanner in the works, (by the way nice score with that front flap ya B%^*?/ard, ) the hardest part to find aquired first I would be smiling if it was me, anyway the spanner, look what I got today.






She tells me that 23 years ago it was rebuilt when they lived in Melbourne, it also had a different carby put on it??


So if the Predicta set up was such a flop, why would a front flap have ever been on a mower with this late an engine number???? SPANNER complete.

No spanner....The first clue is the engine rebuild. It was very common to just switch engines, exchange if you like. It has a std pull start and correct carby for this model 4 engine no. The line code of 4 is another clue as most 4 special stds had this code, predicta often carried code 2. My opinion is this is a factory predicta with the incorrect engine. To my knowledge Predicta went no where near this serial number......the fact it has again some of its correct parts tells me it was real originally. Usually when this model has its skirt bolts its often real as they were not parts carried over to the model 4 special/std like the auto badge was, it was just not necessary to add them. I think it impossible to dispute the predictas engine run to the17-18, 000 run as it has been highly researched, and well documented. But if for some reason weve all been misled id love to be proven wrong...I wouldnt mind learning something new....you may have somthing unique...that would be cool:)
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Major spanner there mate. It seems unlikely that a front flap would have ever been retro fitted to a standard mower given that they supposedly never worked. Also appears that it was changed to a regular style throttle at a later date. Seems like Predictas may have run well into the 120 thousands after all? And what about that line code 4? Does the carby still have the dual cable barrel? And what about the choke? Its got the old Rotomo style rather than smiley/sad face. More questions than answers eh what!

I recon Blue is correct with the engine swap (bastards weres my engine) and the carby is single cable slide, the choke who knows? I have started pulling it down and it was definatly painted while all together and I noticed the handles being a darker shade of green than the model 5's that I have seen some original paint on, was wondering if the early Mod 4 got the same colour as the models 1,2 & 3? what colour is that please Blue?

Sorry unkiemonk I must have been editing,when you posted. Re read my post if you like:) I deleted this second option as it didnt seem plausible. My point was however,that the other alternative was they had a Working Predicta with a blown engine and decided to put all the gear on the model 4 special....A long shot as it would be much easier to just swap engines from the special to the predicta,but yes Agreed it would be a fairly unlikely option,but an option none the less. Im sure it was just a simple engine swap from the model 4 special,as this mower in my opinon is or was a definately a Predicta when new. I doubt id take the view of later sequence/numbered Predictas because of the extensive research done on them over the years...Im sure about 95% of info on the Predicta is accurate and proven many times over...The choke isnt a real issue as it is where the models intersected and the use of earlier parts on next models was common,as for the carby it would have been swapped along with the engine,cowl and starer pully...
As for paint Jonesy As far as im aware..NOBODY knows of the exact paint code for the Victa green...Most use killrust epoxy enamel in Mid or Dark Brunswick green as its fairly close and with so many using it,has made it almost the uniform colour choice. So yeas since the model 3 came after the model 4 and has the same shade id say its the same as models 1 2 and 3. But in my opinon the model 5 is a lighter shade again. But seriously,dont spend to much time with paint as they often changed suppliers,mixed their own,shops mixed as well and the shades were always different so as long as its close go with it. The same applies to Galmet Hammer in avocado...You CANNOT get an exact shade with any formula so be wary... I found a paint match to be better and more accurate to the original colour. Just my opinion from My own experiences.

Yep thanks for the paint tip, will test a bit next to some original before I paint the bases, bloody cold weather

Ahhhh, makes sense. Shame though, it would have been nice to have two Predictas on the go hey Jonesy!?

Made an interesting discovery today - news to me but probably not to you more knowledgable types - I was stripping down a model five series one, with a number in the mid 180 thousands, and was curious as to why it didn't have a rubber guard on the tank strap, like my series two does. lifted the tank off, and realised that it also didn't have rubber feet under the tank OR noggins to mount the rubber feet. I held the model one cowling side by side with the model two cowling, and realised that they differ in that design element. So, my point is, I'd always thought that the cowlings were the same all the way from the model 4 and continued through the various model 5's - wrong!

Looks like the rubber mounts, and I assume the rubber tank strap, were not introduced until the model 5 series 2, so all those Autos and version one Specials (like the Predicta pictured earlier in this thread) are either using a later cowling or are adding the rubber tank strap thinking that it was period correct.

Anyone know when the iron bolt on safety skirt was first introduced as an optional extra? Model 5 version 1 or earlier?

Your theory is spot on unk...the first model cowlings had no strap or feet, not sure of intro model but im sure it was later even than series 2 but more likely late in the series 2 run. Also used on hg palmers of the same era. Also the first cowl of this type was released on the 2a with no previsions for a starter or tank. The toe ring was intoduced on the model 2 rotomo and continued on to the 2a,3 and utilities with the steel bases well into the 60s . I think some of the HG nobles got the toeguard as an option along with the height adjust.which would be around the middle of the rotomo 2 run.

AAHHH been wondering that myself, I have just been trying to keep track of what came off what ect, well got to pick up the one I have been trying to get for a while even though rough,






And guess what??????????????



NO slit????

Model 4's seem to be flying out of the woodwork at the moment, for a while I had none, now I got 4 in a couple of weeks, keep em comming I say.

Another good score! Low number and some nice extras
, your getting some hard to get parts too I see a few cigars and auto nuts for the groove covers. Good for sells if you need othr bits.they are fetching high prices at the moment. Im starting to get jeleous. Yes no slit....this shows you how after the predicta finished many left over parts where used on the 4 special and stds. This one seems to have got the whole package...badge groove nuts, cigar twin carb cap and the skirt bolts...this I would believe because of its low number. This is the mower a lot of people try and pass if as predicta to the unwary....another great piece and quite desirable...

Can I just say guys that I have been following this post closely, and I really thank everyone for sharing your valuable information. I now know a lot more about these old beauties. This has inspired me to get a victa automatic and join the auto club we have here now, lol.
Maybe the more people we have looking for them, the more parts we can give to others, to complete them.

No worries James! Glad we have inspired you to get involved - just be aware it can be quite the addictive hobby once you get started!

Don't suppose anyone has a solution for removing a broken side skirt bolt from a Predicta base? Putting a drill bit anywhere near the alloy has me pretty worried

Yes drill it out....1 Face the bolt,perfect centre punch. cobalt drills if you got em,if not HSS is fine,just go nice and slow with lots of lube.Step up your drills a good tapping compound,easy out if you have one. then retap. 1/4 UNC 20. 2 Heat the alloy with a torch,not the bolt,a few hits with a hammer quench and repeat 3 times or so. if the undeside is poking through see if you can vice it out after you have heated it..note if your going to drill it dont use the heat option as it will harden the bolt,making it near impossible to drill with HSS...if its only one bolt go for it..YOU CAN DOO IT! if its more than one,like another base I saw here,then just get another base,should be around 20.00 and save you a heap of time...OR i can post you my hands and they can do it for you....lols

And Unki make sure when you centre punch the bolt you have full support under the bolt as I would hate to see the side broken out of the base.

Thanks for the tips fellas. Will give it a try as soon as I get time. As you said Blue, worse case scenario is I need to get a new base, which won't break the bank. And besides, I've heard there is a guy with a whole bunch of newly acquired model 4's that just loves to help people out