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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 445 Likes: 1
Qualified Junior
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Hello Guys,
Again venturing out of my comfort zone and looking at a super 24 to tidy up.
This one is on ebay right near where my parents live. I wanted to know what you guys think? Too expensive perhaps? Iv got some spare full crank engines if that one is too tired so that doesnt worry me too much.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251263037497?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Also will these fit in the back of a wagon or will I need the 6 * 4?
Cheers
PJ
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 523 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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I think thats a pretty reasonable price. Doesnt look in to bad shape :-)
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 445 Likes: 1
Qualified Junior
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cool thanks. Dont suppose you know about the size of the units and what you need to transport them? Also interested in whether or not parts are hard to come by for the super 24 specific items. I know the engine is generic.
I work with a bloke who needs one for his farm so it will go to a good home. Id appreciate any other advice on these mowers. They seem pretty cool.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 523 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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I dont know much about them. But transport wise if the handles fold down enough it should fit in a wagon or ute.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
Qualified Junior
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Hey peter j . i have done a few super 24's price for one in original condition Is a bargan if under 100 wouldn't go any higher than 150. They are a big mower and the handles are bolted to the base they don't fold. i have had one in my falcon wagon but not advisable. beware engine Is least of your problems handles crack near the base front axles flog out parts are
scarece axles andd rear wheels and bushes are availible new that's all though remember these machines get flogged to death
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
Qualified Junior
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Just checked out your link good example of a super id buy it ! you have my blessing hahaha yell out if you need help with it in future if you win it
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 445 Likes: 1
Qualified Junior
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Thanks tomo. Dads given the ok to pick it up for me so I'm going to watch the auction closely. Hoping I can get it for less than $100. Appreciate your advice greatly. I am hoping next time I go up it will fit in the back of the outback with the seat down as I'll be towing my ski. Should be a good challenge to get it back to prime operating condition.
I don't suppose you have any good pictures of yours? Iv seen a few of mark electrics on the forum
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
Qualified Junior
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No worries . good luck will post a few pics of mine for you also have break down charts if need be
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 445 Likes: 1
Qualified Junior
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Good news I won the super 24 for 79 bucks. Dad picked it up for me and said it was in fairly good nick. He is a builder and not an engine man so I will reserve my judgement until I make my way from Canberra. I have noticed it has a g3 carby which is one I haven't worked on a lot. Mostly the lm and g4 varieties. Id appreciate any advice on servicing the g3 carby.
Tomo if you or anyone else could post some photos of their super24's that would be great!
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
Qualified Junior
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Don't be afraid of the G3 is a fairly user friendly once you get to know them. congrats man. just beware the rubber grommet from the air cleaner to the carby they are impossible to find
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 445 Likes: 1
Qualified Junior
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Not afraid just would appreciate some pointers on the g3 carby. Recently invested in an air compressor so it's makes a lot of things easier when it comes to cleaning.
Iv read a couple of ty's posts and would appreciate some quick simple pointers on the g3.
The g4 took a while to get the hang through reading this forum however we dont have that much on the g3.
Thanks guys.
Iv been looking at getting some g3 spares through outdoor kings shops. Any advice?
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
Qualified Junior
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the main things i would get as G3 spares are , vane gears, bowl gaskets , they seldom need parts ive gotten away with cleaning and adjusting them without damaging anything ill see if i can upload the instructions for setting the vane up in the next few days.
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 445 Likes: 1
Qualified Junior
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Too much stuff going on. The super 24 is still had the olds house after a visit because we took the small car on our trip. I'll try and bring it back to Canberra on the next trip. I have some positive news though. With a bit of fiddling the old girl got going and fairly well. It just doesnt have a lot of throttle response. Its ok though. I thought for $79 bucks on ebay it was a bargain and one to add to the collection! Is this type of model getting rare when it original condition? When I bring it back to Canberra ill start to do some work on it. ![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2013/05/full-6412-10997-img_0201.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2013/05/full-6412-10998-img_0200.jpg)
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
Qualified Junior
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Good stuff man , wouldnt say they are rare but any i come across are fairly tired , they do still sell super 24's new ...
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 349 Likes: 4
Apprentice level 4
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Hi,
I have recently picked a Super 24.It goes and I have used it to mow my yard but its a little rough as you would expect for this type of machine.
It has a full crank side pull start motor with the large fuel tank on the handle.
I have never seen a 24 before so I need a little information.
1. Its a fairly tired full crank but starts & runs OK but it will need Norms carby mod to counter the over revving.
2. Its obviously not the original engine. How is the boss on the drive end of the crankshaft supposed to work with the pulley? This one has the boss roughly ground down so the pulley can fit over it. It works OK but that can not be the way it was intended.
3. The snorkel is extremely long. Starts on the left handle then goes right around the front of the engine to the carby at the right back. About a 180 degree bend. Its at least 200 mm longer then any of my other snorkels.Not surprisingly the cable was kinked but I managed to straighten and lubricate the inner and it works OK now, I have seen 24's in photos with the snorkel on the other side but to do that the carby would have to be upside down. Might work like that after turning the primer cap up the other way.
4. Full cranks are getting hard to come by in my area yet Powertorques are still around. I wonder if I could fit a Powertorque to this mower? Might be the easiest way to get a better motor. I was thinking of just making up a new sliding plate big enough for the Powertorque bolt pattern Or any other engine maybe a Chonda.
5. No sign of the belt tension-er at all. I was able to get it to work with a large screwdriver as a lever but there are warnings that this is not the way to go.
6 Front axle is currently wired on. Works OK but looks rough. Front wheels look like ordinary Victa rears. How should the front axle be held on? Wheel bearings?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jeff
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,086 Likes: 220
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
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Jeff these are my favorite machine, lots of questions there just go one step at a time. 1 tired full crank, if it runs ok with no bottom end noise, a hone and a new set of rings shoul;d freshen it up. 2 The used a boss that was also the pulley, as long as yours works it should be fine 3 The snorkel is obviously from probably a Powertorque mower the snorkels from a utility are shorter and have instead of the lokg rubber tube at the bottom a little short 45 degree elbow fits straight onto the carby and as you thought the carby is fitted upside down with the primer cap facing forward and turned 180 degrees to the way it is on a PT. 4 Depends on the 24 Base, some were designed to take the Briggs motors so if you have that sort of base a PT will fit, if not it is a lot of work to fit one. I did one a few weeks back, should have fitted a PT to the one I was building but decided I wanted to use up some of the full cranks I had here, turned into a big job 5The tension adjuster is a ring around the crank above the pullet with a bit of threaded rod out through the back so tou can tighten it up before you tighten the base bolts up. 6 Depends on how bad the housing has torn where the front axle goes through the body. I have made up delrin bushes to fill the gap and a "J" type bolt to pull the axle up tight . Victa wheels were standard but I use whatever good wheels I have here. Hope this helps
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 349 Likes: 4
Apprentice level 4
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Thanks Norm,
Very helpful. I had never heard of a Super 24 until I joined this forum.
The base looks like its designed with a Briggs in mind. It has the centre slot about 50 or 60mm wide and then two long slots about 12mm wide running lengthways on the outside. I'm not even sure I would need the sliding plate, a PT might nearly go straight on. Plenty of Powertorques around here but not many full cranks. Unfortunately I might have to pay these days rather then picking up from the footpath.
The current boss seems to work. Looks like my pulley must be aftermarket the original is probably still on the original motor. No hydraulic puller probably. I'll get my old mate with a lathe to turn down a boss so it fits a bit neater.
Thanks again for usual expert assistance.
All the best Jeff
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,086 Likes: 220
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
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Hi Jeff, no hydraulic puller needed, boss/pulley removes the same way all the Victa bosses do, sit the boss on a block of steel/rsj or whatever you have and hit the other side with a hammer and it will pop off the taper. Does the muffler go through the hole in the base, if it does it is a full crank base because the PT muffler hole in the base is slightly further back . And no don't think of fitting a Chonda, defeats the purpose of being able to stand these up on the rear wheels and chew through high grass/scrub and with a modified carby you can get the revs up and lust keep pushing
Last edited by NormK; 29/11/18 08:22 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 349 Likes: 4
Apprentice level 4
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Thanks Norm,
The base does not really have a hole for the muffler, certainly not at all like an ordinary full crank base. The muffler exhausts just beside the sliding plate through a slot in the base. The muffler does not actually protrude through the base. The slot is much longer than the exhaust pipe and has space both before and after the exhaust.
This steel sliding plate (or adapter) is definitely full crank. It has the 4 holes for the crankcase bolts in a square or nearly square pattern around the round hole for the crankshaft . Does the PT base still have the sliding plate?
I won't be fitting a Chonda and definitely not a Briggs although that's what the new Mastercut 600's are. My motor of choice would be a Powertorque of which I already have a couple of good ones.
The current full crank is probably OK, just I do not have many spares and can not get them easily. I already used my only spare side pull starter.
The modified carby brings me back to the needle valve issue again. I only have one Carbymaster type and it is definitely sticking. I'll try to soak it in fuel for a couple of days. Have you had any experience with the 10 for $17 source yet?
All the best Jeff
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,086 Likes: 220
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
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OK Jeff I will have to do a bit of checking, I have a full crank one here and also one with a Briggs still on it. The Briggs still uses a sliding plate so I need to check if you can fit that plate will work on the full crank chassis, might be a day or so before I can get to it. The pulley off the FC will fit straight onto the PT, but I'm not sure how the belt adjuster will work on them, the Briggs I have pulled off haven't had them so I guess they used the screwdriver method. I haven't tried the other needles yet, I still have a few of the original purchase left maybe 6/7 been busy with other stuff of late.
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