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#45033 08/04/13 08:39 PM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 6
Novice
Hi everyone,
I just purchased a Victa Utility at a garage sale for $10.
Gave it a spruce up, put in a new plug, and air cleaner, cost me another $9
It starts and runs, but it is an effort. I wish to know if it is a points model, or has electronic ignition. Hard to tell without removing the flywheel I know, but here are some pics.
Engine number 522000770
[Linked Image from i1173.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1173.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1173.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1173.photobucket.com]

Thanks,
Chris

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 418
Qualified Junior
G'day nice mower that's a 160cc it has electronic ignition there is nothing under the flywheel if you look under the back of the tank you can see the coil ,you can just see the coil in your 1st pic...A new pulg and air filter wich you have already done ,also give the fuel tank and carby a good clean out and you will have a top mower...

Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 6
Novice
Thought it may have been a nice one. Can anyone decode the serial number into year etc...? I think it is a full crank model?
Will look at the carb on the weekend, I have trouble starting it. It will fire once then stop. Many times. I only get it running by playing with the throttle, constantly moving it. It is not the kill switch, once running, if I pull the throttle all the way back it cuts out immediately. So that is working as expected.
Not sure on dis-assembly of the G4 carby. But will see how we go. I read somewhere that crank seal failure can cause hard starting?
Thanks
Chris

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
***
Well yes that is a full crank 160cc.Going of the victa code I find this. [Linked Image]
That puts it around the 1980-81,which I think would be very close to what it is.As far as decoding that engine number wow I'm not sure that is possible,as during the 80's and before the power-torque engines came in the engine number system went right out the window.However I'd say that 1980-81 would be the closest to what it is.As far as not starting and from what you've said I'd be looking at carby problems.Don't look at the worse problems first look at the simple first.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 6
Novice
A new carby O ring seems to have fixed the problem. I gave the carby as good a clean as I could, the old O ring was oversize and cracked so I replaced it.
Just have to work out how to re-attach the cut out wires, both have the same length pins and I can only remember where one went!
Time to look at a diagram when I can find one.

Chris

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,819
Likes: 6
Junior Technician
***
One other thing with those is the o ring for the inlet manifold.


Grab the carb and give it a wobble. If it moves a fair bit, especially if you can get the manifold to move, it might need the manifold o rings changed.

There a fat o ring around the manifold to seal to the carb. Then if you undo the two screws theres a little skinny one under the manfold. This usually deform a fair bit when fitted and if the manifold works loose it can leak. You can buy both o rings from a bearing shop they are common sizes.



On those motors some had points.

Best thing is to stick your fingers in under the metal cowling just above the hose that goes into the carb and feel for the electronic ignition module. Its about 3/4 the size of a matchbox riveted to the underside of the top part of the crancase that comes out to screw the cowling onto.


IMHO that there is the best utility they ever made. Even without the electronic igniton.

Only bad point about it is that the motor is pretty high which means you cant mow in under bumper bars and that sort of stuff like you can with a powertorque.


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