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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,738 Likes: 6
Forum Historian
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That's true Bob, and to further the cost argument, when I can't get the pin out of a power torque, i find it cheaper to go to the tip shop and select a power torque engine with good compression and swap the engines.
Cheers Ty
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,819 Likes: 6
Junior Technician
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Smack the rod with the ball end of a ball pein hammer. Remove the piston, remove the crank. If the block was good its good to go again. Use another crank, or see if the vice and a soft face hammer will help you get the rod bolt out. Rod from a donor motor and a new piston and rings and its good to go.
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
Novice
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Hi all,
I think I've been misinterpreted when I said off to the local for full rebuild. I should have said off to 'buy' parts for full rebuild. Shop was out of rings last weekend as local council had called in and cleaned them out. They ordered more in during week.
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,738 Likes: 6
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Ah, i see now, My mistake!
Cheers Ty
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
Novice
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UPDATE
New rings and gaskets installed, no problem. Started mower and mowed lawn with out missing a beat. Last weekend halfway through lawn mower runs out of fuel and I re-fill it but can't get it started. Eventually get it started but it is running like a dog. Slow rev's and making a distinctive popping noise at what sounds like the top of the piston stroke. Leave for a day. Starts first time time runs till out of fuel and then I can't get it started again !!!! Will try again tomorrow but getting frustrated. Any suggestions?
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,819 Likes: 6
Junior Technician
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Decomressor
Or erattic spark, bad earth or bad module.
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,738 Likes: 6
Forum Historian
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I agree witg Bob, that sounds like either decompression or ignition.
I would suggest removing the deconpressor, and blocking the hole with a spare spark plug (pop the hose over the plug bolt to seal the intake) then run it till dry, then, when you start it back up after refill, you will be able to see if tge issue is the decompressor, or ignition.
if the decompressor is the issue, either service it(clip type) or replace it(sealed type) otherwise, check the grounding of themodule, and do a 3mm gap spark test when hot, in a dark place, look for a nice, bright, strong blue spark, acompanied by an audiable snap.
Cheers Ty
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 19
Novice
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As a note I did actually swap out the decompressor when I installed the rings. Interesting.... Have been busy but will run tests and let you know. Many thanks and Merry Christmas 
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,738 Likes: 6
Forum Historian
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The decompresser can be a temperamental part, however swapping it for new should make i all good.
Did you use a new or a used decompression valve, and did you notice any differences between the old and new ones?
If it's a new valve, I would focus more on spark, or the vacuum line to the valve, however, defineatly check the valve and do the no-valve test, as I have seen new ones with faulty diaphragms.
Cheers Ty
____________________________ Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
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