OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Help identifying Victa 2stroke mower

Hi everyone,
I have a Victa two stroke mower which has just died on me. I suspect it has blown a crankshaft seal out. can you help with identifying the motor so I can find some spare parts for it?

Cheers

Thanks!

It died while i was mowing my heavily overgrown yard, made a popping sound, ran for a short while longer and slowly died. Now it will start and idle rough then stall.

Any help with the diagnosis?

Where would i find the the crankshaft seals if this was the problem?

That thing looks trashed.

Why let it get so crapped out before giving it some love???
Your only loving it because it died.

Anyway ive had a cry. lets give it some love.


Theres a seal top and bottom.
Bottom one is easy to check, is the top of the blade disc all covered in oily gunk??? If it is its shot. Check the bearing, try moving the disk side to side.

Top you can check. First check the bearing by trying to wobble the crank side to side. If its got movement the bearing is gone.
You need to get the flywheel off to check the top seal.


Best thing you could do would be to get some degreaser and dose it up. Hose it off all clean. Let it dry.

Check for spark. If its no good sort it. Id say that one would have electronic ignition, but it could have points. Youd have to put more pics up with the black steel cover off for me to be able to tell. The ignition module should be rivited under the aluminium housing just behind and above the carb. If its got points bin them and get a module for a power torque, best spot for it is under the flywheel screwed on the post that the points were on.

If its Ok, Remove the carb. Strip it and clean it out. Check the body and back cover for cracks.
The Power torques use the same carb, i explained in another thread how to go about the carb clean.


New Muffler will cost under $30. Get some muffler clips while you are there. You can buy the gasket individually. Having that sealed up will help no end. The muffler acts like an expansion chamber on a motorbike.


The nut on that spark plug is as dodgy as all get up. New plug. $5.

That plug lead is dodgy too. If i remember right the leads screw out of the coil. Swap it for another with the screw (not the ring type like you have) in the end then get a rubber boot cover (the orange type), a bit of WD40 in it will help it slip on.

That will stop the long grass earthing your spark.



And when you are at the mower shop see if you can get a wheel centre cover for the back wheel. The cover holds the circlip on and it could save you a lot of looking the grass and pushing a 3 wheeled mower.



Or what you could do is go find a running steel base Victa with the same motor and just swap them.

Some had a tank similar to that but flat at the front and sloping up to the top of the tank. They are better for getting in under things.


To swap the motor you will need a 26mm or i think its 1 1/8th socket and rattle gun to get the blade plate off. And 15mm works well on the engine nuts. I think they are WW.


If you are putting new blades on it there are two different lengths. Long and short and the look the same. It will depend on the blade disk you have on it, theres a small diameter one and a larger round or later model oval.


Bob.

With a bit of work on it , your mower could look like this one, maybe not the same colours ,( did this one for my daughter )

I went by the saying of not looking a gift horse (mower) in the mouth.

I agree the spark setup is dodgy but spark is OK.



Would love to be at a mower shop, but the nearest mower shop is the best part of 1000km away!

I was planning a major overhaul, just need to get the parts. I noticed there are no crankshaft seals on the outdoorking website?

The cylinder and piston look to be in pretty good condition (through exhaust port).

More investigation to be done on bearings etc, but I am a bit stretched for time at the moment.

Thanks for your help.

Mark,

Check the website later tonight and you will find the seals listed under engine parts. Don't know how we missed listing them. Thanks for the heads up about them no being on the site.

Bruce,
can you help with which ones suit this mower?

Cheers,
Mark

mark.walters.0,

It depends on the size of the shaft either 17mm or 20mm note that the top should be 20mm and the bottom could either be 20mm or 17mm. Click HERE for the seals to choose from.

Thanks Bruce.

I bit the bullet this afternoon and pulled the beast apart. Turns out I was half right in the start, it had blown the upper seal right up to the flywheel. See the photos

The lower seal seems to be hidden behind a metal cover which I cant see how to remove?






For the record I measured the flywheel side crankshaft seal as 32mm OD and 20mm ID.

You need to remove that blade boss, which is pressed on to a taper, so you have to use a hammer and anvil process to persuade it to pop off. Remove the engine from the base plate, and set it up with the crankshaft horizontal so there is a heavy piece of steel flat and square against the underside of the parallel part of the boss. Smack it hard with a hammer, vertically down onto the upper parallel part of the boss, directly opposite the anvil. The squarer and more rigid your setup, the easier it will be to get it off.

It looks fairly rusty - you should squirt it with Penetrene or WD40 the day before you try to get it off, allowing it to enter the joint between the boss and the crankshaft.

Hi Mark, the top seal popping out seems to be a common problem, I've had a couple do this
when you peplace it I wld seat it down a little in the Crankcase,not just flush with the end face, maybe a little Gasket Goo wld help too
As to the bottom seal, if the Crank isn't chockers with string etc, I'd leave this for now as it's not weeping, just do the top & try it!
Cheers Terry

Im with Pontiac on the lower seal.

If it doesnt feel sloppy in the bearing i would leave it. If it was leaking there would be oil gunk all over the place, especially the top of the blade plate.



Cheers, Bob.