OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Rover Ride On Mower Rover Rancher 2 belt adjustment

Gday` new to the forum.
I have an old Rover Rancher 2 a RED one. The belt`s where a bit past there date.
So I replaced the B76 and B58 belt`s last week, she was working ok. yesterday I replaced A870/A33 drive belt on her And now when I put her in to gear she will not stop moving even with the brake on or go out of gear till the engine has stopped?. Is there a manual on these old Rover`s?

Hi alwood, and a warm welcome to the forum. we all love to learn new things and tinker here.
Regarding a Rover manual, we would need to know more about your machine. Could you please post the exact model and serial number; (usually located under the seat) and also a pic of your machine? This will help see if we have the correct manual for you.
Once again

Thanks you for the warm welcome Deejay.
Rover Rancher 2 Model No: 11050, Serial No: 3911807

The parts and manuals sections has an illustrated parts list for that model, but no owner's manual. Most likely the owner's manual would explain the belt adjustment procedure - the parts list doesn't.

Thank you for the prompt reply, alwood, I have checked the Parts List and Manuals and there is a parts list and further info on the Rancher 2.
Access to the Lawnmower Parts Lists and Manuals area is by subscription, all the details are contained in the very first post on any topic in the main forum, "How to Access Parts Lists and Manuals" and follow the instructions.

Once you have access, go to "Questions on Lawn Mower Frames"; Lawnmower Parts Lists and Manuals; Ride on Manuals, Rover Manuals and when open scroll down to bottom of page Rover Rancher 2; 11050.
Best of luck with it,

PS. grumpy is correct, there is only the Parts List for the 11050 but there is an earlier model Rancher 2 manual.....I will see if Bruce can upload one for your particular model.

I have sent Bruce a PM, hopefully he can source one for you and upload it.Please be patient tho, as he is very busy at present.

Thanks guys for your help.
I check out the Parts Lists and Manuals area later tonight.
Deejay if you can get the one uplaoded for my particular model would be great mate.

alwood,

I should be uploading the parts list later tonight for your mower.

Thanks Bruce,
That be cool when ya can.
Been looking in the Parts Lists and Manuals area and can only find 2 parts list in there: Rancher 2 Models 11044, 11050, 11055.pdf , Rancher 2.pdf .

alwood,

We don't have the operators manual only the parts list at this stage. I suggest that you post some pictures at this stage so we can give you adjustment advice.

Had play with it today had no luck,

It is the top belt that I am trying to adjust.

The only adjustment I can do is the plate under the gear box that lets me move the gear box back but doing this puts slack on the drive chain and then it fulls off.

Or do I have the wrong Belt?
A870/A870 is the one I have put in.

looking in the Rover parts list (Rancher_2_Models_11044,_11050,_11055.pdf) it is (35. A05071 Belt (7313)Is this the same?

Do I make the rear Pulley open up more by puting in a biger Shim

As far as I can tell from the parts assembly diagram, the upper belt is tensioned by the jockey pulley, not by moving the gearbox (which would be used for adjusting the chain, not the pulley). In your first picture you can see the swinging link that the jockey pulley moves on. The parts list calls the moving arm the "clutch arm", suggesting it is part of the clutch mechanism. When you push the clutch, does that tighten the top belt? If it doesn't tighten it enough, the clutch adjustment may be the solution (it is a locknut adjustment on the back of the clutch pull-rod). I find it difficult to see how the mechanism works from the parts diagram, since I can't find the connection between the clutch pull-rod and the clutch arm (they are on two different diagrams) but that is my first guess as to how it works.

When I push the clutch pedal it does tighten the top belt tho thats not the problem.
The Problem is that the top belt seem`s to hold on to the two mine pulley`s even when the clutch pulley/jockey pulley is not press in and tighten. the clutch arm or clutch mechanism are working well even the clutch pulley truns freely when the clutch pedal is not press in.
I am srating to think the belt (A870/A33) is to wide tho it looks like a nice fit.

Do you have enough clutch pedal travel to have the top belt a bit looser? New belts are not as flexible as old belts: it could be applying some tension even with the jockey pulley loose enough to have de-clutched an old belt. If you want to check whether that is the problem, adjust the clutch pull-rod so the belt is looser in the de-clutched position, then see if it disengages properly. If that works, you can re-adjust it back to normal after the new belt is broken in.

If the belt sits just at the top of the pulley, or a little bit lower, it is the right width. There is an alternative V-angle, but I think it is only found in automotive belts. (Using a belt with the wrong V-angle could cause the clutch to stick).

Hi alwood,i have the same machine-i measured the said belt and the outer flat side of the belt is 10mm wide.when the pedal is NOT ENGADGED i can move the belt with my finger towards the tension wheel about 50mm.i cannot read the size of my belt due to ware and the kids took the camera to melbourne...ken

have adjusted the clutch pull-rod back and tryed removeing the clutch pull-rod from the clutch pedal.
Both times the back of the clutch arm is hitting the frame when clutch pedal is not press or clutch pull-rod removed. The belt`s still not disengages properly with this new one.

alwood,move your gear box back slightly towards the back axle 5mm.on your middle photo it shows your tension pully has tension on the belt(pivoting towards the left of the frame where as mine is in the strait line position with the pedal virtually straight up and down until you start putting slight foot pressure on it.ry to take pics of mine or i can take measurments if you like.i consider these a very good and robust mower,how wide is your belt-i recall the"a"type are narrow and the "b"type are wider.the latter mainly used for driving blades and final belt drive on some mowers...ken

Thanks for that info mower man,
Movemet is the same with my one when the pedal is not engadged I can move the farside of the belt 50mm towards the jockey pulley.
Have move to box back 5mm tho it makes the drive chain a bit slack.

I was told some time back the belts were,
B76,for the Drive belt,
B58,for the cutting belt,
A33,for the clutch belt,

look at the new belt it is 13mm wide? well that be the reson why!
Got the old one out and she`s 10mm but it,s not going to live to long.
there`s some numbers stamped into the old belt 2385 used some chalk to bring them up
I,ll ring around after the new year for a new 10mm belt.

Thank you guys for all help.
I update this when I get the right size belt and the rideon`s working right

mower man, I think there robust mower too, Got two of them and one shell, The secon one has no motor or belt`s and need`s some bit`s here and there, Plan on latter getting and low HP motor in it for the kids to play in with.

Thats good to hear alwood,as stated before and with you checking your belt width i believe that the alphabetical letter is for the width and the number is the length in INCHES so if you put your fingers in-side the belt and pull so the belt forms a oblong shape you measure end-to-end from the inside.being measured in inches it would make a big differance if the wrong size(length)was used.cheers for the festive season...ken

Ken is correct, A section is the narrowest standard-type belt, B section is wider, etc. up through the mega-belts used for heavy equipment. If you have a B section belt on an A section drive, the belt may not be flexible enough to wrap around the smaller diameter pulleys used for A section drives. That would make the belt act as if it is tighter than it is. It would also make it overheat from excessive flexing, and not last all that long. And yes, on that series of numbers, the number after the letter is the belt length in inches. However it is measured around the outside of the belt, not the inside:
http://seekbelts.com/daycobelts/apv-belts.html
It sounds as if you have the wrong belt on the clutch drive, and that would be enough to explain the problem you're having. You should be able to adjust the clutch pull-rod satisfactorily with the correct belt in place.