despite having posted previously it was so long ago that I feel like a first time poster....
My problem is removing a rear wheel from an Evolution Fastcut 34 (with 13hp Honda motor). As I was undertaking other, unrelated work on the unit I noticed the rear wheel (diff lock side) was loose. Closer inspection showed elongated holes in what I'd call the wheel rim (but what I believe is called the wheel hub in parts lists) as a result of the loose wheel. In attempting to remove the wheel I found one wheel stud was turning with the nut. Investigations showed the 'stud' was not a stud, but a bolt that was fastened to the inside of the axle flange by way of a weld. This was the case with the other 2 'studs' as well, however they were still fastened enough to hold from rotating while removing the wheel nuts. Subsequently, it was found that the 2 'studs' fell away from the welds and so now they aren't viable for wheel reinstall.
So, problem 1 is how to remove the wheel and tyre. I'm at the point of taking an angle grinder to the nut and stud given that the wheel is cactus, and the stud likewise. Prior to coming to this conclusion, I spent an hour trying to get something onto the head of the bolt (what I call the 'stud'), but to no avail- almost no room between the wheel and large sprocket (driven sprocket?) and a deep rim/hub in combination with remnant blobs of weld making a spanner virtually useless. I imagine this approach will see me able to remove the wheel and tyre, but......
I have had a few Greenfield ride-ons, and there are a couple of broken units sitting around ready to donate parts. I found a good wheel on a Evolution mk2 34 inch (badged as a 16-34, but I got it 2nd hand with a 17hp Briggs motor), removed it (noting a different nut size than that on the problem unit) and looked at the axle flange with the thought that I could possibly do a transplant of wheel and axle flange, instead of needing to get new studs and having them welded onto the flange with the real risk of having the same failure in the future. The donor unit has a bolt that appears to secure the flange to the axle, however close inspection of the unit to be repaired didn't reveal the same securing bolt. Further, the donor unit definitely doesn't have bolts welded to flange- more like the studs I'd expect to see (like studs I've seen holding heads in place in car engines), although in scouring the forum I've noted that a post of years and years ago suggests that a broken stud needs just to be punched out of the flange, so I'm not sure what stops it spinning)
So,
Question 1- Can anyone tell me whether the welded bolts are evidence of an earlier, non standard repair, or were they one method used by Greenfield?
Question 2- Are the flanges in each case removable and interchangeable despite the seeming different fastening set up?
The easy repair would seemingly be to remove wheel and tyre and have 3 new bolts welded into place, however the mower is in an unpowered shed at the bottom of a difficult to access slope- and not being a welder means I'd need to engage someone to do it, along with the power issue. Hence I thought that if I could exchange the flanges....... To compound matters, moving the mower, even towing it, would need to be done with only one rear wheel fitted. And to compound matters further, the grass is growing well in the Illawarra despite mild summer temperatures and I need to get mowing before it becomes too much of a trauma.
I realise how important photos are, but in this instance and at this stage of repair, it's difficult to get a photo that sheds any light on the subject. If this thread goes any further, I will make every effort to post relevant photos. I promise.
Hi wilbur, I can't help you much with the problem , I have an early Greenie here which has the bolt on wheels. The Anniversaries I have worked on are an absolute pig the get the wheels I have always thought that the used the same axel (taper/keyway) and just put the flange on the axel so you could unbolt the wheel to repair a puncture or replace a tyre. I assume this is how it is done so once you get the wheel off you are still going to have to get the flange off the axel. Do not hammer the axel because all you will do is damage the thread I have had to deal with that several times over the years. You may be able to get it off with a 3 jaw puller and a bit of heat. Without power to be able to work on it I think you are going to be in trouble
Thank you NormK, I appreciate the time spent responding. Merci beaucoup.
The 3 stud wheels don't seem to be a problem to get off under normal circumstances, however this scenario had me resort to the angle grinder to remove wheel. I now see that the axle flanges are different, with the donor model having the bolt and, I assume, a key holding the flange to the axle, but the recipient model having the flange welded on. This means I'll attempt to have three new bolts welded onto the back of the flange as it appears they were originally, although I'm not 100% certain of that. I've also located someone who will do the welding, and assures me 60 odd metres of extension cord shouldn't be a problem. Not having a cordless angle grinder, I did run the cords down to the shed to run my corded grinder with no problems. So hopefully a small portable welder won't have a problem.
I've attempted to attach photos, but they don't appear in the preview available so I'll post and hope they appear. If not, I'll try again.
So, to summarise for anyone needing some help, there appears to be at least two different flange arrangements (diff lock side) on Greenfields of similar sizes and with diff locks (are there Greenfields without?), although I'm not sure of the ages of each of these machines. One type has the flange welded, the other secured with bolt and key (I'm assuming). So no transplant of flanges possible in this instance. I think I've read about short and long axles- maybe the axle flange difference relates to this axle difference- I'm just guessing though.
Hi wilbur, Interesting stuff. I have only worked on one Greenie with a diff lock fitted and I didn't have to do anything to the diff lock apart from making sure it worked. Most of the Greenies have direct drive, meaning bot rear wheels drive all the time which makes steering a bit difficult. I'm wondering how you replace the bearings on the shafts with the welded flanges, but I guess there is a way of doing it. And the welder will work fine with 60m of lead Anyway glad you are getting it sorted, they are a good machine, just keep up the maintenance and it will last as long as you need it
