OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Cutters not disengaging on old Greenfield ride on mower

Hi all,

I just bought an old Greenfield ride on mower in Sydney. Its a 25th anniversary IC11hp. It starts and cutters engage when short, (about 4 inches) lever is shifted into "cu" position,

But when the lever is shifted to the out position the cutters wont disengage. So i turn it off and on startup the cutters are disengaged.

Theres 3 options on the lever.
On the right is OUT.
In the middle is TF
And on the left is CU.
And theres a small chain welded onto the lever with a clip that only allows it to select in TF and OUT.
Doesnt do anything in the tf selection as clip has to be taken off selector to select cu to engage cutter.

Hi syd,
Welcome here, we try to help.
My guess would be the blade brake has worn out and is not stopping the blades when they are moving or the belt is a bight too tight

Hi syd666,
Welcome here, we try to help.
My guess would be the blade brake has worn out and is not stopping the blades when they are moving or the belt is a bight too tight. Problem is these are an old machine that many people could have played with. They are a great machine once you get them sorted, so bear with it and you will have a good mower

Hi Norm,

Is this the brake pad and can i buy it on this site?

And is it difficult to replace?

https://www.hendersonmowers.com.au/...36-genuine-greenfield-brake-pad-gt01267?

Hi Syd,
Not that I know of from memory it is rectangular in shape. From memory many years ago I just made one up from a bit of hardwood, bit of Flinstone style. The mate I did that one for, probably 8 years ago is still using it and has never complained about the blade brake not working. It is not too hard to get to, I stand the mowers up vertically with a chain block so things are easier to get to. I have also tipped a couple of Greenies on their side to work on them, but I think standing them vertically is the better option. Just empty the fuel tank and remove the battery before you do this.

I dont think i even need a brake. I dont intend on stopping it during mowing. It can stay like that for now.
Would there be a problem turning the mower off with the cutter still rotating as in the user guide it states to turn the cutter off then turn mower off?

As long as you disengage the cutter before starting as it takes a bit of strain off the starter motor because most of them have plastic gears on the starter motor. No big deal to replace those if you have to

Thanks for your well received advice Norm.

Ive just decided to do an oil change on it.
It says to use Castrol GTX oil.

Does it have an oil rating?
And how much oil does it hold?

Heres some pics.

I wouldn't get too fussed it is only a flathead Briggs anything will do. I forget what they hold, about 1.5 litres I think. Just work it out on the dipstick

So when the cutter is on and i turn the cutter off without the brake working it still spins. It doesnt slow down and eventually stop.
Why doesnt it stop?

As well theres an emergency brake label on the Greeny but thats it. And another next to it which is the hand brake along with a lever to operate it.

Is the emergency brake the actual brake?And how is it operated?

The belt is dragging the cutter because the belt is still spinning. The emergency brake is supposed to stop the mower rolling forward or backwards but it is a primitive design that usually doesn't work. The blade brake works off the cutter engage lever. They are separate braking systems. Years ago I fitted a hydraulic brake on one but it was a lot of work

The front wheels arent straight and the steering turns more sharply one way then the other.

Theres a long tie rod type of adustment and on the front theres an adusting bolt near each wheel.

Is this where these steering adjustments are made?

Steering setup on these can only be described as awful. It is obviously missing a stop to prevent it from turning too far and usually when it turns too far you have to get off and pull the wheel back. Where the steering comes from the column out to the pivot point is probably worn out and along with the tie rod ends. A mate and I rebuilt his earlier this year, rebuilt the whole lot and now it works as good as new. Also remember both rear wheels are in constant drive so this also makes the steering harder, the rear wheels just want to push it straight ahead

I was just outside trying to adjust the steering and came to the same conclusion. Probably worn parts causing too much play. Hopefully when i give it the first go cutting net week i wont have to get off and correct the steering by hand.

Thanks.

From memory I drilled a 10mm hole 40mm out from the edge of the king pin in the flat coming out to the drag link bar and put a nut and bolt in it and that stopped the wheel coming around too far. I did both sides and no more getting off the mower. As long as you understand this poor mower has had its heart flogged out over many years, it can be repaired but it takes time

How old do ya reckon it is?
Seventies maybe?
I emailed Greenfield for info on age yesterday.

Have a read of this Information on Greenies was a bit hard to establish


https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/74115/1.html

Maybe 1991.
If Greenfield was started in 1966 and this one is a 25th Anniversary model.
See what Greenfield says.

So even if it is a 91 or later it is still a 30+ year old mower, I don't you will see too many of the current rideons running around in 30 years or more

Today i cut the grass and twice the right wheel turned outward.at 90 degrees Could straighten it out the first time, but the second time had to jack it up and straighten it out. When i finished cutting the lawn both wheels were turned outward by a couple of inches.

Is this what it has been doing since brand new or is it just worn steering components?

The tie rod is adjustable to bring the wheels so they are parallel. To prevent the wheel turning out you will have to put a bolt in the bottom of the king pin to stop the wheel going around too far. It is a common problem with them. Some had stops to prevent it some don't. They have been butchered and bashed for over 30 years so a bit of maintenance is required

Hi Norm,

Right wheel turned in twice cutting the lawn. Im going to put in a stop like you advised. It turns to the right as normal but barely turns to the left after cutting yesterday. Just about pointing straight ahead now. The first part that comes off the steering shaft has a pin attached under it going through the mower and when i turn to the left it lifts up about 2 inches. But when i put my foot on it and then turn it just about turns normally.
If it would just not move upwards so much it would be much better.The tyres rub on the king pin as well when steering is at full lock either right or left..

The wheel turns around like that is exactly what they do without a stop on it. Yes the pin through the quadrant is another primitive part that does wear . Big job to set it up with bearings, I did it on my mates 11 years ago and it is still working fine. I was talking to him this morning about it and he loves it now he doesn't have to get off and fix the wheel. Tyre rubbing on the king pin , might have to put a washer on the stub axle to space it out a bit further. To get it to turn left a bit better you may have to adjust the rod coming from the triangle quadrant to the top of the left king pin. Mate and I spent many hours earlier this year just getting the steering set up properly on his making new bushes etc, but now he is super happy with it, reacons it will see him out

Thats why i bought it. Even with the repairs its very much worth it. I checked John Deere and the rest and they were literally falling apart. Plasttic parts failing in short time and expensive to replace as well. Even near new ones. They dont make anything like they used to. Im almost 60yo so ive seen the quality reduce over the years with most things. A throwaway society were in. Even expensive cars are falling apart as they have to be retired before they get to 5 years old or else. Its a joke.

Good one. Many thanks.

Another very important thing with a lot of the later stuff has the PTO drive to the cutter belt. A new PTO costs $300/600 so that is a good reason to avoid them

Its actually a 21st anniversary model. not a 25th, so if Greenfield started in 1966 its a 1987 model.I was 21 when it came out and now im almost 60 yo. Cut through 2-3 ft grass quite well.

Thanks.

The Good old mowers like this Greenfield were used a lot by schools and councils when they were new.

The newer mowers with PTO Clutches aren't great in a dirty environment .They are made to be replaced though.

I don't think most people are going to look after the PTO clutch in newer mowers.

✅ How to Reduce Dust Damage on PTO Clutches

Blow off the deck and clutch area after every mow (compressed air works best)

Don’t engage PTO at full throttle

Avoid mowing in extremely dry/dusty conditions if possible

Check for deck seals or guards to block dust kick-up

Lubricate and inspect clutch mechanisms if applicable (some have serviceable bearings)

I replaced the PTO on a Cub Cadet earlier this year, then a spindle failed and now the steering quadrant has stripped teeth, they just aren't as tough as the old Greenies, Cox and Rovers

Hi Norm,

I was going to buy a 5hp Rover before this one. But i wanted a little more hp.

That quadrant part in the steering that slides up and down on its pin.
Is it supposed to move approx 2 inches or is it supposed to not move at all?
If its the bush has had it, i probably should replace it ya reckon?

Hi Syd,
Preference is for it not to move up and down. I can't remember what holds the shaft at the bottom, I'm guessing a split pin but It is probably 10 years ago that I rebuilt the one on my mates Greenie. That is another one of those jobs for lifting it up with a chain block or tipping it on its side so you can get at things. I can't remember but if you loosen the bolt on the quadrant you may be able to slide the shaft up through the quadrant. I know I made a new quadrant so not sure what goes on there. I do have an old greenie sitting here so if you strike trouble I could pull it out and have a look.

I stuck me hand under the quadrant pin to see if a nut was missing but couldnt feel anything. Just a bush and the quadrant pin sliding up and down in the bush when i move the steering wheel to the left and right. I cant lift it with a block and tackle, but i do have a trolley jack to have a look under it.

Thanks.

Ok so if you take the quadrant off the pin might slide out through the top or the bottom, then you can see what is going on

The pin on the quadrant is welded on. Im going to take it off to see if theres something to stop it from moving up and down so much, but theres a part with a red wire on it thats stopping the quadrant from sliding out completely. It has a bolt on the top left and another on the bottom.

I knew there was something strange about it but it is so long ago.

Hi Norm,

The pin is welded onto the quadrant. I can see the weld on top of the quadrant without removing it. I cant get it off yet as im waiting for a socket extension to arrive to remove the bolts on the piece with the red wire above it thats stoppig the quadrant from being removed from the top., as i dont have one. I had a cheap little quarter inch socket set from Supercheap auto and i clean snapped it off a while back.

Ok so that is probably why I made a new quadrant and just had it grub screwed to the shaft so it can be easily removed if it has to come out for some reason

Hello Norm,

I removed the quadrant this morning and its just a pin thats welded onto it that slides into the bushing.

Would a new bushing prevent the quadrant pin from moving up and down so much?

Ok that sounds about right, new bushes won't prevent it from going up and down. Does it have a hole drilled through it so a split pin can be fitted. This will stop the up and down movement. If it doesn't hava hole you might have to drill one. From memory that shaft is probably 3/4 inch diameter. If it has a hole in the shaft you will need to pack it with washers to take up any clearance above the split pin

I was thinking the same about drilling the same and putting the split pin in. The washers are a good idea as well. Should have some split pins and washers from my old mans gear. he passed over 17 years ago.

Thanks. Will get back with a pic..

You need at least one washer to protect the split pin or it will get cut off

Hello, Norm,

I drilled a hole in the quadrant pin but require a thinner washer as there's barely any room for it, and the split pin so i just put the pin in for now and will replace it with a thinner washer to protect the split pin from cutting as you've advised. The steering to the left is much improved as it was almost straight with the pin on the quadrant moving almost 2 inches upward when steering to the left.
I jacked up the left side to get better access.

Now will do the wheel turning outwards on both sides and the washers to space the tyres out from the king pins shortly to stop them from rubbing.
.

Very good every bit helps with the steering, they weren't that good from new, and they have had 30 years to get worse. I can check the measurement I used on the stop bolts if you want me to

Hello Norm,

You're correct about the steering.
I haven't given it much thought in regard to the stopper bolts and how and why it works to stop the wheels from turning out 90 degrees, but i know from your advice that its a 10mm drill hole that's 40mm out from the king pins on the flat bar.

Is that from the actual pins or the frame that they're mounted to?

Yes, the bolt length would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Hi Syd,
Not sure where I got the 40mm from, I just measured the one I did here and if you actually pull the king pin out and measure from the edge of the pin out 30mm and put a 10mm hole there. If you leave the king pin assembled and measure out 20mm from the bottom flat of king pin housing and drill the hole there. As for the length from memory the bolts we used were probably 25mm. I can't remember what they come up against but it does work and stops the wheels from turning too far

So when the bolt is fitted into the 10mm hole drilled, does the thread part of the bolt point up or down?

For some reason I don't think it mattered but I would put the bolt looking up. If you jack the front off the ground so you can turn the wheels back and forth you will see what happens when you turn to the right. I think it hits the bar running across the back that ties the wheels together. I am doing this from memory from a year or so ago but you will see what happens

Hello Norm,

Yes that's what it does. I had a look today whilst turning the wheel and can see whats going on.

I barely have any motivation these days to do anything so your advice makes it a heap easier to get the job done.

Thanks.

Hi Syd,
Yep I am hearing you about the motivation thing these days, but now it is warming up a bit it is easier for me to go to the shed and fix something each day. Sun comes out after the rain and the grass grows and that means you have to cut it and the cycle continues, repair, mow, repeat

Hello Norm,

I plan on doing it this Monday as it will be cooler even though i could do it earlier but i dont go well in any type of heat or cold in general.

Hello Norm,

Drilled 1cm holes on the flat bars approx 2cm out from the king pins and put bolts facing thread up with washers and lock nuts of which i had here. So that's sorted that out.

Thanks very much for your advice.

hi Syd,
glad that sorted that out, fix one bit at a time. At the moment I am working on the steering on a Cub Cadet, and that is not a lot of fun

I dont know why but the tyres aren't rubbing anymore after i did the split pin on the quadrant pin. I cant work it out. And theres no movement on the rims from top to bottom or left to right when i see if they have any play.
So i dont have to do that.

Thanks.

Yes strange things happen like that, one thing has an effect on something else and makes no sense

Hi Norm,

What would cause the old bottom end bearing to be loose in the crankcase of a seventies 2 stroke power torque engine? It can easily be pushed out by hand. I have the piston and rings and will do the crosshatch as well. It has an aluminum deck.

Hi Syd,
Are you sure it is a Powertorque, they didn't come out till the eighties?

Hi Norm,

Yeah i was thinking the same after i posted.
Youre right, its an eighties model but not sure on year.

Hi syd.
the bearing should be a snug fit in the case, if it is loose use some bearing retainer on it but that might cost more than another motor is worth. Or just find another PT motor somewhere, they used to be found on nature strips everywhere. I would have over a hundred here, but trying to post is cost prohibitive

How much retainer would it need?

Just a bead around the outside of the bearing