OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Victa Lawn Mower Frames Victa Utility 550 self prop

I have recently overhauled the 160cc motor on this beast, piston rings, spark plug, bearing and o rings.
The unit went first time for about 20 mins then died, found the fan unit was not tight enough nad the d hole mutilated, replaced the fan and since then I have been unable to get the beast going.
Any home handy-man hints
Alfred

Is there any spark at all? by your description you have the full crank motor with the side gear start yes? They are a great engine, I have ample second hand spare parts if you need them.

Has the magneto been damaged from the flywheel spinning off center?

Since I put the fly wheel on there is a spark as it is a two stroke you cannot check the fireing synchronisation easily but I have a nice blue spark ample petrol but the thing won't kick over as it did after the origional overhaul, so I am at a loss to diagnose the relctance to start
alfred

alfred,

Try checking the bottom seal on the mower.

The bottom seal is a special bearing which is supplied by Victa which has a built in seal this is pressed into the engine casting which supports the crankshaft, the upper bearing is the one in the bottom two stroke chamber, both these have been changed, the bottom bearing (with built in seal) does not appear to be distorted or damaged in any way since it was put in.
Alfred

alfred,

Ok did you replace the top 'O' ring (large one on starter).

Did you check the two 'O' rings on the block for the carby spout?

What side did you put the ring gap on and what gap was on the rings?

Is the electronic module built into the coil or is it one of the small silver ones pop riveted onto the block?

How long ago did you buy the fuel?

Is the engine flooding?

We will start with this first just answer the questions.

alfred,

Sorry is the ring gap facing the exhaust port or inlet port?

Sorry is the ring gap facing the exhaust port or inlet port? [/quote] The rings locate with two dowels on the piston at some 40degrees apart this pair of gaps faces twoward the top of the engine, the starting mechanism
alfred

alfred,

Here is part of the workshop manual from the parts list and manuals area of the forum.

I origionally had the con rod upside down, when I assembled the engine and the whole thing would not cycle freely so I reversed it, the piston cycles freely and this i believe is the reason why it started first time when I assembled it the first time, as I say it ran for 20 mins before the fan through some centrfugal/centripetal force mutilaed the D whole on the fan, this threw the firing out of timing, which I subsequently replaced, the origional Fan had a tin cover on it which when removed liberted pertinent information about the torque setting for the rotor blade bolt, which should have been 60nm, origionally I just did it up firmly until the rotor blade assemble stopped turning on the pully assembly, I believe I did it correctly this time, however I do not know how to check the correct timing as there is no obvious markings, it may have done it again but the assembly is very tight this time and I would need to use a puller the remove the pully assemly, previously it came loose with two taps of a hammer.
Alfred

Alfred,

Question:

When you turned the conrod over to the correct position did you remove the piston?

If not read my answer in the last post that I did very carefully as I will not go any further till I get the correct answer.

We need to go one step at a time otherwise we will go around in circles.