OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames Greenfield 11Hp 21 Anniversary Model

I'll leave the subject of tips on assembling the clutches to Gadge. Graphite on the clutch facings probably will reduce any noise the clutches are making, but will not fix the cause. Because you only get squealing when going forwards, not backwards, it sounds as if it is more likely to be belt squeal than clutch noise. Greenfields are very prone to slipping their belts in forward but not reverse, if there is insufficient belt tension. There is an automatic belt tension adjuster built into the idler pulley right in front of the clutches, under the seat. That pulley is on a slide, with a spring pushing it forward and a ratchet to restrict it to only sliding forward, to tighten the belt. If it did not have the ratchet the pulley would be pulled backward, loosening the belt, whenever the mower is driving forward, and it wouldn't ever go anywhere. However all ratchets unavoidably have finite steps between engagement points, and they also have to move some distance backwards to achieve full pawl engagement. Both of these effects reduce belt tension. The Greenfield's fairly elementary ratchet mechanism also has considerable friction, partly because it uses a spring steel leaf as the pawl, and this exerts a fair amount of pressure on the ratchet rod. So, when you get belt slip in the forward direction from time to time, you need to remove the seat and lever the sliding pulley forward slightly, listening for a click from the ratchet as it moves forward a notch. A beady-eyed critic would say that in Greenfields, the automatic belt tensioner is more semi-automatic than fully automatic.

Thought that myself too grumpy with the belt tensioner. When I first got it, it never had the spring for the tensioner to begin with. Checked all of that, took the guards off. Hung off the ratchet until I was satisfied that my miniscule amount of weight had moved it as far as the belt would allow so I'm fairly certain it wasn't belt squeal. I'm thinking it may be more an issue of the corks or the drive plate having some slightly high spots.

Thanks for clarifying that Sparky. Putting graphite on clutch facings increases the required clamping pressure, but it does usually reduce the effects of high spots in the early stages of breaking in a new facing. I'd be reluctant to endorse it as an ongoing feature of your clutch, but for a break-in process, it makes sense to me.

Incidentally because you are pushing the tensioner pulley forward while standing behind the mower, the usual way to take up the belt tensioner ratchet is with a short lever applied to the pulley. I don't mean some six foot crowbar, which would damage the pulley, of course. One member reported some success with a size ten right foot, but he may be a rather meatier fellow than I am: I wouldn't expect much effect if I used my foot. Anyway, as long as you are pushing the pulley toward the front of the mower, with enough force to see the pulley move slightly along its slide and tend to stretch the belt, that is what is needed.

Hi sparky, squeal usually comes from a dry drive shaft, i know there's been lots of discussion on what to use on them, but i've only ever used the inox high temp bearing grease with no probs at all. make sure the shaft is smooth and square, no notches or chucks out of it, and most important , that the turned ends where the outer mounting bearings sit ,are not worn, if the grub screws come loose, they slide on the shaft and wear it down.......meaning the whole assy moves, which means building them up again or replacing the shaft. just a tip to , make sure you chamfer the inside edge of the small discs on each side of the inside square, this stops them catching on the shaft causing sticking. i wouldn't use graphite powder on the cork as i would think that would cause slipping, ?? and i would finish the drive faces with emery, you dont want to take to much off. doing it that way, you'll find the high spots arnt that high. shimming is most critical, and may take a couple of assemblies to get it right, and make sure the shims are in the right order or you get the problem of stuck/jammed springs that you mentioned, and as long as you get the last 'click' on the top pulley when you get it all back together, you should be right.......? cheers pete

If you would like another minus the engine, you are welcome to it. I'm on the Sunshine Coast. Some new parts.

I've owned a 21 Anniversary model for quite a few years. Bought it used and in excellent condition but now the replacement engine (TWM QPVS11) that it came with is starting to give in. Lots of smoke, lack of power. I'm considering just getting another newer used Greenfield but perhaps replacing the motor is cheaper and it is something I would be able to do.

The question is: what do I replace it with? What are my options here that would slot straight in? The current TWM needed one or two parts to be slightly modified, but nothing serious. Do I have to buy a B&S? Are there cheaper options?

Thanks for your help,

Oli

Thought I'd update this question of mine. I ended up lashing out on a B&S which works great. Pretty much bolted straight on without much fuss. The hardest part was working out what to do with the extra wires..... worked it out in the end :-)