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#113221 08/11/21 11:02 PM
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
Novice
Hello

First of all I would like to say I'm a big fan of the old pt motors currently I have a tilt a cut two pt one early 80s one early 90s and I recently picked up what I believe is a relatively rare model that I would like to restore to its former glory and find out a little more about it. Its a victa mustang 20 self propelled from the engine stamp I'm.assuming it's a 88 model.

The mower itself is Is good condition runs starts and drives but has a few minor issues (air filter cover, pull start, rusted handle bars(lift mech) . I have started on the handle bars plus stripped the mower back to replace all seals, carbi and maybe rings (piston looks ok) What I'm struggling with though is the height adjust and clutch cable the height adj has been bodgied up at some stage looking close up I can see the spring on one side has snapped and the other is the lever doesn't seem to sit in the groves so I suspect one or the other is not original. Would anyone know what part numbers I need to try and source? My second question is I want to strip the handles back and sand and polish it back to original but I'm. Unsure as to how to safely remove the clutch cable and handle assembly without cutting or breaking the rivet, does anyone have an experience with this type and can help with part numbers?

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Membership information
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 164
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Howdy Ttocs1980 and welcome to the forum.
That's in fine general condition. I can tell you the height adjustment lever and plastic detents on the body side looks to be original. As you pointed out, the spring steel at the base of the lever stem has completely broken on one side, and as a result, is not sitting in the slots squarely and is causing difficulty to operate and probably can't hold a height position. Corrosion over time is the culprit.
It looks like the entire rear axle will have to be replaced unfortunately, necessitating extensive dismantling.
That may include the gearbox.
Very unfortunate that component has failed.
AS for the handles, you may have to try and work around the cable as it will be a hassle reattaching the lever. The self propelled system can make these more complicated to do repairs, hence why some people choose to remove it altogether and convert it to a push only mower.


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
Novice
Thanks mowerfreak I appreciate your prompt response. Yep it won't hold height correctly the previous owner screwed into the body and hooked up a spring system which keeps it aprox at slot 3. I picked it up pretty cheep tbh and it would be a shame to not attempt to put her back to former glory. I will remove the back wheels and Axel and see what I have to work with. I did a little bit of research and found there are after market springs for a slightly later model Thad I may be able to retro. Will post a few photos as I'm going along.

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 164
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
They're like rockinghorse### these days so well worth repairing, especially if the SP system is working well.

Those rear wheels have a lot of life in them and are expensive to replace new. Looks in such good condition overall, especially an 88 model!


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
Novice
Awesome thankyou and I'm apologising in advance this is the first sp mower I have worked on so I will likey ask alot of basic questions since it's rare and I don't want to break something I cannot replace. Before I shot out I thought I would take the tire off. It's pretty clean so my dumb question for today is how to remove the gear so I can remove the rear plate. I can see two grooves cut into the gear and a pin hole in the centre so I'm guessing they align and then I am unsure is there a special tool?

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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 164
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Are you planning on hitting it with a welder?
Might be better off lowering the axle off the base.
I don't think that gear is easily detachable or reattachable.


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
Novice
Long time since I updated this thread. In short I finally got the rear axel assembly sorted the bearings as well as the height adj were shot so I ended up taking it down to Armadale mower world (Perth WA) who sourced all the parts and rebuilt it for me. In the meantime I
1. removed everything.
a sanded back the bars (left some patina)
b. service the carb
c. replaced the head (the previous owner had put in the wrong plug and cross threaded)
d. replaced the plug, all rubber seals, (crank, manifold, carb and diaphragm)
e. replaced drive belt
f. sanded and painted (drive cover, tank stand, replaced all bolts, nuts, screws and air filter)
g. installed a new air filter cover + new filter and foam filter.
h. replaced the blade holder the original had been damaged and was unsafe to use. Interesting this model does not use the standard two blade unit the standard unit
(which I purchased) is to shallow and will not tighten as a workaround I used some compression washers up behind plate to hold it fast. its not ideal this mower will only
see occasional use however in the interest of perfectionism if anyone knows the correct part number or had the correct blade plate for a 88 mustang 20 please pm me.
i. also the blades were incorrect they were from an 18 so I fitted the correct 20in blades.
j. finally a good degrease and clean before reassembly oh and used a bit of Jb to fix up the previous owners attempt at fixing the lift mech.
k. still to do: I still have to sand back and redo the grass deflector/ rear door.

what I learnt.
a. dismantle everything dirt grub and crap will be everywhere (especially under the drive cover I was astounded how it was even working with the caked up junk under there)
b. the blade plate was a bitch to get off there is not as much clearance between the base of the chassis and the blade plate I ended up with a modified hole punch with a grinded down handle to slip in better to hold the drive shaft behind the plate), a lot of heat on the nut and a rattle gun to get it off.
c. as mentioned above the dimensions of the blade plate seem the exact same as all the other two strokes but the thickness is different at the shaft mount (again if anyone
knows or has the correct part number please comment) as mentioned above as a workaround I used compression washers between the plate and shaft but i am no
engineer so cannot say how safe that practice it for extended use.
d. you cant get official clutch cable so oil that up as best as possible (unless someone knows of a alternative part avail)


will do a new post in show and tell soon with all the images
and on a final note I absolutely love this mower cuts like a champ and goes through anything.

Last edited by Ttocs1980; 09/05/22 07:00 PM.

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