Just a question before I end up snapping off three of the four head studs.....
Once I remove the nuts holding on the head and remove the head, I am left with the four head studs that go all the way through the head, the barrel and into the crank cases.
I am trying to get those studs out, one of the four came out quite easily, but I am getting to the point where the amount of force I am exerting on them is approaching the point where the studs will snap.
I am using good tools - proper stud extractors - so I am getting a very good grip on them, but to no avail.
The barrel is still in place - and my question is this:
Should I be able to remove the barrel just by sliding it up over the studs, or does the threaded section at the bottom of the stud grip both the crankcase and the barrel??
If I can take the barrel off then I should be able to grip the studs way down lowers, thus reducing the distance over which my torque is applied, thus lessoning the chance the stud will snap.
I suspect the barrel should just slide off the studs, but mine is being held fast because the piston is quite well seized into the barrel.
So....should the barrel just slide off the studs, or do I need to remove the studs before the barrel should come off??
Any other tips for removing the studs would also be appreciated.
I have tried, lots of penetrating oil, heat, stud pullers - I will let it all soak overnight and try again tomorrow.
Polybus
Well for a start, what are you using as penetrating oil? I'm not at all a fan of WD-40 for this - it's not at all good in this application, and wasn't designed for it.
Acetone and Auto Transmission Fluid mixed at 1:1 v/v is better than most commercial products; and as a last resort, brake fluid can sometimes save the day.
Yes, the barrel should just slide off the studs.
With very badly rusted studs, they may be rust-bound where they pass through the cylinder fins, as well as at the crankcase.
If it were my engine, I'd be thinking about using a 1mm thick cutting disc, to cut the studs a little above the cylinder base. As well as a 100mm angle grinder, I have a 3" pneumatic 'exhaust pipe cutter' which is very handy for such tasks.
