Now, we'll talk about paint.

In this job I used Eleven (11) different paint products.
Each had a particular advantage or suitability to the job and in some cases was the only choice. Remember that each can was $15-20 then the right paint will add nearly $200 to a resto. Of course if you're doing several the cost get diffused but these thing if not accounted for can be unreasonably expensive. Also add paint thinners solvents spray guns, masks etc. Consider.


Unfortunately, there is no shortcut here.

Always use the right paint for the right job. I understand that most of you are servicing small engines and restoring smaller implements. These rules apply and this will be a long and boring diatribe. I've restored classic cars, race cars and maintained all sorts of machinery, I fly R/C planes where the weight is critical, I've run a successful hobby shop where the applications for paint are beyond imagining.

Let us talk paint, the difference between a winner or a loser.
On this particular job I was a total loser, did'nt get the epoxy thinned right and had some runs. But I learned a lot and will never suffer those particular indignities again.

Let's do one method every 5-6 posts, that will help the interested and I my ego can pretend you care about my mower smile

Application #1
A random sheet metal item that's scratched and some minor rust is appearing.

Wash, I use a strong household cleaner first and if it's REALLY dirty, a solvent bath with kero or petrol.
Toothbrushes are good as are scouring pads, there's no real need to go to specialised "auto shop" products, common household stuff and simple solvents are good.
When the piece is CLEAN. Examine for chips and faults. Now is the time to tap out any dents and to check for flaking paint.
If you have flaking and loose paint this is the time to halt degradation. Using course paper, either a random orbital or by hand rub the loose paint until the good paint blends with the underlying metal. we want a SMOOTH surface not smooth with an edge that may have some oxides waiting like cancer.
Apply a primer, if we have minor imperfections, use a filler primer, if not just a good metal primer.
It will dry quickly but leave for 24 hrs on a good day and 72 on a bad to let it shrink back. Sand then with a 400-600 grit paper and ensure all imperfection has been addressed. If you have issues the repeat but only in the areas needed. I use a course airbrush or touch up gun for 90% of my painting as it's mainly smaller areas on mowers and my Brother is a total ace on bodywork so I only really play with the smaller areas.

Then using about 30psi in my gravity feed touch up gun (see below), float 3 coats onto the object. Usually I'd do in batches so when I'm done with all for one coat, I'm ready to start again.
I't's very important to do all this in one session, going back after a few hours will bubble and lift the previous cats and the only solution is begin again. (I've been there trust me it's a real headfuck).
The last coat thin a little more.
I use about 20% for the initial coats but at the end thin to about 40%, in acrylic terms it's called a "flash" coat but the reasoning and result is the same that the thinned coat melts the ones below and the surface tension smooths the finish.
Epoxy dries slow so either awarm day or an oven for small bits for a good finish.
One of the many reasons I remain a bachelor smile.

I'll assume you have a compressor ?
Then grab a few of these...
I have both and they work well but have different feels.
The suction gun is more subtle but finer


[Linked Image]


and the gravity feed is closer to an adjustable rattle can.


[Linked Image]
I use this gun for more than 80% of the work so if only one than I'd use it for most things.

It's junk compared to an Iwata and I have those but compared to industrial work and hobby work it isn't worth me getting those guns out.

Keep it clean, look after it and it delivers 1000's of times the investment. As with all good tools, maintain and be familiar and they become good tools. I'll pick up my cheapy touch up gu now and surf the settings and get to incredible standards.

PLAY, PLAY, PLAY some more. make it comfortable is more important than its cost.

I airbrush with a Passche but won't get it dirty for a mower.

Last edited by Brycevr; 11/05/16 09:11 AM.

Quality is a direct experience, independent of and prior to intellectual abstractions.
R. Pirsig .