If there is no sign of aluminium swarf, given that it took a major effort to break it loose, it is possible that it was the big end bearing that seized, not the piston rings. That would be a bit harder to fix: replace connecting rod, and linish the aluminium off the crankshaft. All in all, probably the most practical thing to do is just tune it up, and use it. The bore looks fine, it does not seem to have been seized there.
The 92908 is my favourite Briggs engine. I suggest you don't separate the fuel tank from the carburetor unless you need to, because it has an automatic choke and you have to preload the fuel pump diaphragm to reassemble it if you take it apart. The choke should work very well indeed if it isn't maltreated. I think 1979 would be before the plastic version of the carburetor, so the only worry with it is that if it warps you will have to file it flat, but that is not very difficult with the metal body carburetors. The plastic ones are reputed to warp much more and be difficult to repair if it happens.
When you pull the flywheel and open the breaker points compartment, look for oil in the compartment. The points are operated by a plastic pushrod that runs through into the crankcase. Eventually it wears, and lets oil in. When enough oil gets in the compartment it immerses the points and stops the ignition. It is easy to replace the pushrod, but if the aluminium bore it runs in is worn, you are supposed to ream it out and bush it. That requires a special reamer, and is not worth doing.
