G'day Ironbark and Norm
Always done the same weld the back of the stub axle.
I usually just get the Arc Welder out and weld the back of the axle ,if you put too much weld on just grind it down a little.
Gently heating a hardened metal and allowing it to cool slowly will produce a metal that is still hard but also less brittle.
Sometimes I've put a few spot welds on and it has cracked off again after about 5 years so have put more weld on when that happens ,it generally won't break the weld if you have it welded all around the back of the axle .
You could cut a relief angle/ substantial shamfer into the rear of both components and weld a ring of filler. but I
don't think it's necessary to make it that strong and would be a pain getting the axle off it it ever wears out.
Put 3 or 4 small tack welds on before welding in case the axle goes cockeyed if it does straighten with a big shifter and
grind a tack weld off to straighten if it won't straighten.(this is straightening the stub axle to a right angle to the flat plate.)
After it's welded together if it has still distorted you can still straighten the stub axle with a big shifter ,you are
not bending the stub axle ,just bending the flat steel so the stub axle is in the correct location.(just a little tweak if the wheel isn't straight)
If I let the metal cool down without using water after welding it should be good as I've never had a problem
with the metal being weak after welding.
Mig or Tig would also work.
Cheers
Max.
