Thankyou CyberJack, that's exactly what I was after I will just print this off and take it down to the fastener shop next time I go past and get the correct bolts. I also noticed that the diagram shows the leaver on the right hand side yet mine is on the left, I thought maybe the handle bars were back to front but all the others I have managed to find online are also left handed. Will take a look tomorrow if the bars are reversable.
Got a bit of prep work done today, majority of the base is cleaned up and primed ready for a top coat just need to clean up the handles and a guard bracket then I will start on the pulley assembley. I also ordered 3 new bearings and managed to find the original Koyo Japan brand all for just under $20.00.
I can confirm the original handles were definately white, the green came right off with paint stripper and was a different shade of colour to the base. It's going pretty good at the moment, will get stuck into the pulley system sometime next week.
I finally got a bit of time to relax and get a bit more done on the model 38. It really feels rewarding when you finally get some parts back together as the rust removal and degreasing can get a bit daunting. Most of the base is done I obviously can't put the leaver and guard on untill the engine is mounted. Thanks to CyberJack for the exploded parts diagram I noticed a few parts are missing which I will try and source from my local fastener shop and some washers were installed incorrect on the leaver prior to me tearing it down. The leaver is now able to manouvour in different height positions rather than all up or down as it did before. Next stage will be servicing the engine and re-painting, I can't see me doing a full teardown and rebuild of this engine as it runs pretty good.
Started working on the engine and now it's in a million pieces, couldn't help myself it looks like it's going to be a full rebuild. I just love these Kirby's when there restored. Kind of glad I did as the rings could do with replacing and the sump was grubby.
This is the reason I decided to strip the engine down complete. I used paint stripper then blasted it with the gernie, what bits were left came straight off with a wire wheel on the drill press. It's alot easier getting into the nooks and cracks with the engine in pieces and well you don't want to be using the gernie if you don't strip it right down and dry it out. I also got these tiny hobby wire wheels you put on a Dremel to get in those hard to reach places, there like a few bucks for a pack of 5 on fleabay I put them on the drill or drill press and they work wonders especially cleaning inside the valve ports with a bit of carb cleaner. I just use the cheap paint stripper from Bunnings it's only $9.99 and works the same as the Selley's, just be carefully this stuff burns if you get it on your skin so make sure your covered up and wear eye protection when removing the paint with this stuff on it.
It's a labour of love, and why I always say I hate cleaning and de-rusting. Do you have a recomended way to clean the inside of the engine, as this one's pretty thick with oil and gunk, I got it fairly clean with carby cleaner and degreaser but there's still some gunk I can't get out of the drain plugs I may need to soak it in something would kero do the trick?
I wish i had a blaster cabinet with the correct setup but i have no room and way to many hobbies to house all my toys and tools. Definatly slow and tedious, i still have to clean the carby and fuel tank as i had enough after a few hours. Cant wait to its all done and the fun part starts with the painting and re-asembling as it makes it all worth while when you accomplish something your proud. No doubt there will be more photos coming up soon of the Kirby build as soon as this cyclonic weather we have passes.
So decided to get up early this morning before the wind decided to come up and I managed to get some paint down on the engine, it's all done except the fuel tank and recoil starter.
A bit of experience bit me in the bum that I was able to work quicker knowing what I was doing and didn't realise I had sprayed to many parts to fit in the oven, lucky I didn't spray the tank and recoil started and managed to squeeze it all in. Lesson learnt spray only what will fit in the oven, got a bit cocky I guess.
Anyway 85% of the engine is done just waiting on new rings and gaskets and need to clean up the remainder of the internal guts and it should be good to mount.
I'll cook dinner tonight darling - you stay there and don't peek till it's done, want another glass of bubbles?
Do you want fries with that?
Thanks for sharing your progress Bon - you take good care and "do it right". Seeing your work makes me try to emulate the quality outcome.
That Poly paint stripper is the best, but there is a push to ban it so I bought a litre to do my second '45 reno. You're right about the skin burn - only took me one hit to realise a bucket of water nearby is a necessity... The fumes are pretty nasty too!
It's full of Caustic and that's definitely not good for the skin. Also having too much of it on hand is also an issue as it becomes weaker everytime you open it up and take some out thus letting more air in with it, thus why I only buy it in smaller quantities.
Also it's better once opened to take it out of its tin and store it in glass, this way it doesn't react with the steel which the tin is made of.
Cheers, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
It's Kirby for dinner tonight splashed in orange sauce. I might have to go out and buy another tin as I have run out and still got a fuel tank to do, I almost forgot how time consuming the engine was. Still plenty of cleaning to do and then re assembling but I'm now at a standstill as its a waiting game for parts to arrive before I can get stuck back into it. Looks like its time to go fishing
I didn't want to divulge too much info as that stuff is really nasty if treated without respect, and not for DIY'ers.
There's a solvents company in Sydney we use for work and I have a glass bottle of 100% strength to top it up. You really know your stuff BB and after telling the boys in our metal shop, they'd love to pick your brain. I've often relayed your words and they look at me like I'm not supposed to know this stuff!! I'm the kind of mind that l learns by 'doing' rather than reading and I've learnt so much these past months from everyone on the forum. Add that to the opportunity to show off my work AND get feedback, well, thats priceless.
Bon - a very nice finish on the parts - what temp do you bake at and what sort of timeframe? By memory you're a spray gun kind of guy, yes? Is yours fed from above or sucked up from below. I've used a sucker for restoring furniture but have heard gravity is better/easier to use.
I don't use a spray gun just cans from supercheap/Repco I bake at 90°-95°C for 1 hour as recomended on the labels. I use the Duplicolor hi temp engine enamel paint which has a ceramic formula and designed to be baked so it withstands engine temps of 260°C, oil and petrol if spilled to stop the paint from thinning or crazing. I first hit it with the primer then the colour, If you check out my thread on the last Kirby engine rebuild I did for the 45 it's all in there (note someone just re-reserected the thread). Oh word of advise don't use your kitchen oven, your misses will kill you plus it smells and is probably not good to then cook food in
plus it smells and is probably not good to then cook food in 
