OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Trimmers and Brushcutters Two Stroke Trimmers & Brushcutters Echo 2150 Line Trimmer - Not Starting

Hello Forum!

Long time no post.

I recently(today) got my hands on a Echo 2150 line trimmer.

Now, the issue is it just won't start, or stay "on" if that makes sense??

So, I do all the start up cold procedure, put the choke on, turn the on button on, pull until it kicks. Flick the choke over and pull again. It kicks into life and runs for 5 seconds and then just dies.

It has fuel. It obviously has spark. But it just dies out.

I think it maybe the carby and I assume it should be a basic fix. I just don't know where to start.

Also, can I be directed to any user manual for this machine if there is one available??

Quite likely you need to (at least) replace the metering diaphragm in the carburettor.
Before you do that, you could try turn the mixture screws out a 1/4 turn to see if that helps. Your echo may have a barrel carby, in which case there is the low speed screw down the middle of the barrel (pretty poor description, so just ask if you need a more in depth explanation).

There are plenty of tutorials on how to remove the diaphragm if you are unsure. Basically, it is retained by 3 or 4 screws on the carby. Also, you should look at your fuel lines to see if there are any splits, and clean out the little gauze filter in the carby whilst you have it all apart.

Once you have done a few of them, you get the hang of these little cube carbies.

Regards
Tyler

I believe that going to be the GT-2150. What I finding on it, it is considered a brushcutter trimmer. To me a curve shaft model just isn't designed to be a brushcutter but this model does have a clutch so it is possible. Doesn't appear to have been available here under that model number.

If it is the GT-2150 then it has a Zama C1U-K53 cube carby. Doesn't appear to have any of the tamper resistant caps installed. As said most likely you will need at least the metering diaphragm and maybe the internal filter screen.

Tyler here the Zama rotary barrels on Echos normal have EPA plugs installed on mixture adjustments. They easily removed if no one tried to get them without the extractor which is 2.5 screw size. The Echo tool is 2.5 left handed threaded. They also sell a 3 mm one just in case someone has stripped the plug.

I will add this too. That is if this is an used piece of equipment it would be beneficial to clean the carby with an ultrasonic cleaner as the metering passages maybe partially clogged by old fuel residue.

AVB and Tyler,

Thanks for taking the time! Some helpful feedback. I've heard it said that whipper snipper engines are good to muck around with and learn on. However, I started my love of tinkering with a Victa 2 stroke and anything bigger or smaller is just well out of comfort zone now!!

That being said, I'm always keen to learn and try new things, such as this whipper snipper.

Now, I removed the carby. I didn't completely strip it down as you say Tyler as I don't know what the metering diaphragm is??

I discovered a split in one of the fuel lines and repaired that. I don't have any fuel line that size so I just cut it down for the moment.

I sprayed out the carby with carby cleaner and it is fairly clean shape anyway. Put it back together and.....it ran. Well sort of.

I had the choke in the closed position and it fired up. While it was still running I moved the lever to "run". It died. I tried again and same thing, fired up in the "cold start" position and then dies when at "run". Then I got it going again same way, and just slightly moved the choke to "run" so it was sitting about half way. And it continued to run. With the throttle down it goes but then when I let the throttle off it dies a slow death.

I figure this isn't how it is meant to work. To me the choke is closed or open. And I want to be able to idle.

So can anyone tell me what the problem is?? Where do I start to fix it? It is obviously a carby issue. So should I just buy a new carby from the eBay for simplicity sake?

Any help is appreciated.

Here are some pics of the carby I took.

Also, did I happen to have the metering diaphragm at my fingertips and where just to stupid to know it?!?!

in the first photo, in your finger tips is the metering diaphragm haha. easy done.

I am just running off to the tip shop before it shuts, so will explain when I get home (if someone else hasn't all ready)

Back from the tip shop - very uneventful. Except I now have a good working remote for our VCR (yes, we still have it connected to the tv. In my defense, the Betamax is packed away).

Anyway, back to the Echo;

The bit in your fingers in the first photo is indeed the metering diaphragm. It needs to be flexible - if it is rock solid, stiff, or crinkles like a Smiths chip packet when you wobble the middle bit up and down, it is old and aged hardened.

You can soak it in brake fluid for 2-3 days, then wash it off with petrol and reinstall. If it runs, then you have found your problem, but replace it.
I am currently experimenting how long the brake fluid fix actually works for - so far 3 months fine.

Take the 2 screws out near the primer bulb and remove the primer and the carby body under the primer - there will be a small mesh screen (like in the photo) - remove it carefully and shoot carby cleaner or degreaser through it.

With the mixture screws, the benefit of having usable screws is you can easily adjust as required. The downside, is anyone can - often they are buggered with.

Screw them each clockwise until they lightly seat (stress lightly). Count the turns (do it slowly as I always lose count if there is background noise). It should be around 1.25 turns from where they are currently to being lightly seated.
If it is, turn them back out to where they are currently. Then turn the one marked L (right in your second photo) anticlockwise 1/4 turn.

If it isn't, write down the number (just in case) and set each at 1.25 turns out. That should be enough to start it and for it to somewhat run.

It is then a matter of adjusting the low jet so you get a good idle as well as pick up off idle to full throttle - you should be able to mash the throttle and the engine rev up without hesitation. Then adjusting the high end for the right rpm.


My first machine was a whipper snipper - 1982 MSAA Craftsman with a sliding barrel float carby and ignition points, closely followed by a alroh edger (4 stroke tecumseh) and 4-6 weeks later, a 1989 Victa PT.

They can be really fiddly to work on, other times really easy. I once grabbed a Talon Farm Hawk trimmer (that had been used on a farm), off the curb on the way back from New Norcia.
Tore the thing to bits over the next week trying to work out the problem.

Turned out the 2 spark plugs I was trying (1 older champion and a shiny new NGK) were both buggered. It was a fake NGK, and I enjoyed smashing to pieces with bricks and a big hammer

The Talon run like a champ with a good plug.

Regards
Tyler

I can say from the just the looks of the metering diaphragm it needs replacing. As the initial mixture settings it is 1-1/2 turns from lightly seated per Zama. Also check the metering lever (the lever that operator the inlet valve) and make it is level with the carburetor surface. Use a straight edge across the carb for this check.

Also note these mixture setting do interact so adjust L first then the H and not vica versa.

Thanks to all the members for their help.

I pulled the carby apart and gave it a thorough clean and it came good! Not so daunting after all!

I'll just need to get some fuel line to lengthen the line i cut!!

Yes they are fairly to repair once you know how. Just don't be attempted to wire probe these as there are tiny rubber check valves. Also you don't use harsh cleaners and strong compressed air. I do recommend using an ultrasonic cleaner on these if you do several a year. Well worth the expense of the ultrasonic cleaner. Besides they are safer for the user as you are not exposed to dangerous cleaners. A simple soap and water solution is all I use in them.

Other than that most cubes are repairable but there will be exceptions where corrosion is too bad or you come across a leaking needle seat or check valve.

And as Tyler mention the rotary barrel ones are harder to get to working correctly for some reason once they cause problems. Still working figuring out what I am missing on them.

I have found the Zama's tend to have the check valves on the fuel tank return line fail (common on mccullochs for some reason) so they wont primer properly.

AVB, the best way I have found to do the barrel carbs is unscrew the low jet that is down the middle of the barrel (which I suppose acts like a variable jet) until the threads don't contact, then screw back in 13 turns (from memory). Screw the idle screw in all the way, and then unscrew 3 full turns.

Start the machine as normal and fiddle with the choke to keep it running until warmed, and then screw the mixture screw in until it smooths out. Unscrew 1/4 turn to richen a bit more, and unscrew the idle screw until a moderate idle is reached. Now you can adjust the mixture for best pick up off idle.

Thats the way I did 2 that were a real pain

I think may found the problem the ones used on the Echo trimmers here with the adjustable main mixture screw but I haven't got to try checking it yet as I got get in problem carburetor. In the following image you the tip has a cross hole. Well through the center of narrower tip is hole connecting the cross hole to the tip. I am think that hole is getting clogged. In order to get this needle out you got to remove EPA plug (cup) retainer.