OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Trimmers and Brushcutters Two Stroke Trimmers & Brushcutters Tanake TBC2211 Wipper Snipper

Hi Got given a tanaka tbc 2211 wipper snipper there is no spark and it appears it needs a new coil,
I contated the local mower repair man and he said he cannot get a replacement one for me.
So I am wondering if anyone might know of where to locate one.

Cheers Glenn

Hi Glenn

From what I have heard, the current issue is that a company called Allpower distributed Tanaka and Shindaiwa new products and parts. They are currently under administration , and until the liquidators get everything in order, no one can order parts.

Might have to wait a couple more months until they sort things out.

Otherwise, try to buy a used one, or see if another mower shop has one in stock (be aware, most will charge like wounded bulls as they know the current situation).

Here is couple things to check on this coil.

Disconnect the kill lead at the coil and see you now have spark. If you do then is a short in kill wire circuit.

Another to check is the high tension (plug wire). These have wire push spring terminal. These have a tendency to break the internal wire of lead. The lead itself is replaceable if need as just off the bad portion does make the lead too short most times.

As for the coil itself look for the Hitachi 6687652 which supersedes the Tanaka 1672054090.

You can get this through Hitachi 6687652 but they have it listed as special order.

I have a vendor on this side of the big pond that has 2 in stock but I would think shipping would a killer. I think a little searching the above might show what is available in your region.

AVB, how do you replace the HT lead? Is it only on this sort of Tanaka/Hitachi coil?

I have a Ryobi one with a damaged end, so I am quite interested.

It depends on the coil design. Many are replaceable but there are a few that are not. Many coils the lead is simple pushed in onto a pin cup or sometimes the pin is a screw in the cup. Either way they are normally cemented in place on some like the Briggs and Kohler coils. I replace several leads every year where mice most times have the lead in two. In the case of the above the lead appears to be the screw in type with a rubber boot sealing the area.

As for Ryobi I don't know the specific coil used so it may or may not be replaceable. If replaceable usually there will a cup where the lead goes into the coil. Easy to determine if replaceable as the lead will have this plastic cup the lead goes into otherwise the epoxy of the coil will the same all over the area with lead coming out of it.

As mention above many coils lead can replaced but it takes a little work to get the old lead out if glued in place and to all the glue out.

If you post the Ryobi model number I see if can find a picture of the coil to look at lead area.

Thanks AVB
The one I've got has the cup you mentioned

Thanks again
Tyler

Tyler, you can solder a new piece of plug wire on,silicone over it to build it up to the original diameter, and once cured slip a piece of heat shrink over it

Norm, do I need a specific type of plug lead, I have a set (only a couple of years old) for a Holden (NGK leads) that I replaced (turned out to be the distributor rotor button). Anyway, they are blue, and looked crappy in 10 seconds flat (bosch are black so don't show the dirt).

I just went out to see what was written on them (silicone resistor leads), and found someone had knocked over my oil can - marvelous. Luckily it was on a piece of MDF, and it absorbed everything.

Do I need to get a specific lead (either to do a full replacement or solder repair) or will the NGK ones be fine for either or both applications

Thanks
Tyler

What NormK describes will work though what I do looks a lot more professional. Note solder will not work on the carbon fiber leads

These leads are 5mm version. Strand wire (tinned copper) center conductor.

Here is a picture of the lead remove from the coil on a Ryobi 700R brush cutter (string trimmer) coil. A little hard to get out due the epoxy they used but patience is key; although, my fingers were numb from the freezing temps here (about 15-20 min). It kinda hard to see the pin but that is the best I can do with the current camera I have. The pin on this one is a straight version. When I replace these leads I use a two part epoxy to glue them back in place. Just measure the depth of the hole and mark the lead as to know when you get it bottom out. In this case I did need to trim back the cup as I damage it some but it is still above the coil surface.


I know it seems like a lot of work but when things are no longer available or hard to come by it worth it to at least try. This should help on other coils too as the OEM prefer to just sell us new coils and many of the younger techs are just plain lazy.

Tyler, you must have an old coil kicking around, dead Briggs, (everybody has dead Briggs laying around) whipper snipper, whatever. I haven't come across any of these machines with a silicone type lead, that doesn't say they don't exist, and no the leads off you Holden will be silicone and they are very hard to solder. LOL

Tyler thanks for your info I appreciate it and AVB I will try your suggestions and thanks for them. I think I will just keep looking for a used one one may pop up.

Glenn

The info on the 700r is great thanks AVB. I have amassed quite a few of the Ryobis and MTD's with the ryan engines. The one with the current problem is like a CS26, so I will have a go on that one - only cost $1.50 from the tip, not in great condition, it works - but the lead is only just long enough.

Norm, I feel pretty silly now - I have 3 buggered coils (infinite resistance between lead and coil body) - 2 trimmer ones and a Tecumseh. Almost threw them out 2 weeks ago - knew they would come in handy.
Thanks
Tyler

Coil HV side can still be bad internally so before going beyond the lead removal I would check the resistance from the pin to coil body. Just saves a little frustration later and is just common sense to check. Of course if the coil's primary
trigger is bad we can still be wasting our time. What I am referring to about replacement is mainly when we know the lead itself is bad. Example chewed in two or the internal wire is broken. Here mice is a big problem when comes to wiring problems.

The short leads are a problem at times even coil swap outs as I ran across a few that knew were the same coil but where the OEM had shorten the lead to dress out the engine. Handhelds are the worst for short leads. Sometimes all you need is an extra 1/4" and it is not even there.

AVB, when you say pin to coil body, do you mean the kill pin, or where the plug attaches on the end of the ht lead?

I seem to recall that a Briggs coil should be 3-8000 ohms, between coil body and plug lead terminal - if any coil is infinite resistance between these points, then something in the windings is buggered.

What I was referring to is when you have the HT lead removed as in the image I showed the pin there to the body. It would be the same as the measuring the HT lead to the body except the HT isn't present. Hopefully I did just muddy the water even more.

And yes the current Magnatron coil (new design) do have a secondary (HT side) resistance of about 6K and the primary (Kill tab to coil body) of about 1.6 ohms. Of course this just checking the winding resistance for there is no way to test the trigger electronics which are on a surface mount circuit board as the kill tab connect directly to the ungrounded side of the primary winding via the internal circuit board trace. It just go / no go test on these otherwords either it works or it don't. What Briggs and others are having you to is check the whole HT side of the coil including the lead so if the lead is broken you will get an open reading. Now if the transistor across the primary winding should short the coil Primary will be below 1 ohm but not zero due the trigger circuit design. Now if the trigger circuit opens you still get the 1.6 reading. It more likely you will get an open reading as the circuit traces and semiconductors can not handle the current if +12v is applied or if the solder connections break down. Due to the gauge of wire used for the windings it highly unlikely for them to open though being enamel coated wire they can develop shorts in the HT side. The primary is unlikely to short the winding themselves due to spacing. How I know how the new Briggs are constructed is because I actually cut one apart.

When you get an open reading on the HT side is when you can try replacing the HT lead but as I said I would test the HT winding first after removal just to save some time. Here on Briggs 4 cycles I replace the HT leads mainly due to physical damage; mice, burn, cut, etc. On many handheld it is because that spring wire push in breaks the HT lead. The broken connect then burns back until the gap is too large to jump.

Anyone waiting for Allpower to start supplying spares again is still in for a bit of a wait.
Apparently, the new owners (none other than Briggs and Stratton) are having problems integrating Allpowers parts inventory into their warehouse (or something along those lines).

Anyway, mid January is supposed to be around the time they can supply parts to shindaiwa, echo, tanaka, etc.