OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Twin Supreme Wire.

In pulling apart the top of the motor ready to rebuild the carburettor, I discovered this wire dangling from the magneto. It is the last one on the right.
Where does the ring attach?

looks like an earth.
speedy

Would have been attached to the engine shroud by one of the shroud securing bolts. Yes it's the earth for the cut out.

I do presume it to be an earth wire but there was another attached to the motor from the kill switch.
Are there normally two earth wires on the engine?

According to the Workshop Manual [Gregory's 'Small Engines' #199], that wire is the earth for the coil primary winding.

It's the other end of the coil primary that's connected to the stop switch.

While I had it off I decided to remove most of the rust and and paint the engine cowl. I used Wattle Killrust. Boy it takes ages to cure.

Yes that's correct there is two wires.The one with the elite should go on the bolt for the coil and the other should be for the kill switch for the carby.Then another wire come from somewhere on the cowl (Usually) to the carby.Then there should be anther wire (Your ignition wire) which goes into your ignition plate.
Here's a picture of one of mine and you can see the wires better.Also you've got this subject as a Twin Supreme Wire,but I can see it has the orange base so it would only be a 500 Twin.
Hope this helps.

My engine would look shocking next to that!
Are you sure the " mystery wire" goes back onto the coil?
I imagine it wouldn't make any difference where you bolt it onto the engine if it is an earth.

Another question. What is the easiest way to tell if only one cylinder is firing and which is having a bludge?
I ask this because for a mower that is renowned for being smooth, my finger joints feel vibrated numb after a very short time.

Yes the wire does go to the coil but if you want to put it elsewhere you can.
Remove the rear plug lead see if there is any difference.Yes 95% chance it is the rear one not working.These mowers as you said do run smooth and have little vibration,so if it's rough that could well be a tell tail sign.

Just reassembled and gave it a good wipe down with a wet rag. As seen in the following pictures, there is a bit of broken off aluminium from the casting ( where I point) and the screw hole has worn threads and the bolt will not fasten as well as the one on the diagonally opposite side which barely tightens before letting go. Stupid aluminium threads!
Got too dark to attempt a start, so will see how it goes tomorrow.

Briefly attempted to start it this afternoon. Wouldn't fire. Pulled out one of the kill wires. No difference. Pushed primer button a few more times. Nothing.
To top it off, the cowl rocks side to side as you pull the starter because two of the bolts won't tighten due to worn threads in the aluminium casting.
Will have to try and tall them with slightly larger bolt size. I only have a metric tap set, so will try my luck with one of them.

Probably not the best thing to put metric bolts on it but if you must take them out to 8mm

Well at least the piece broken off your timing cover won't been seen when it's together.
Which bolts can't you tighten?
You have the wrong cowl on it.It should be a white cowl.That cowl is off the Gold Supreme.
Should look like the ones pictured below.

The bolt hole just next to where I was pointing out the broken casting is one offending mounting point, and the second is on the other side towards the back, so you have this rocking motion when you pull the starter!! Not good.
The dark cowl may not be strictly original, but Iike how it looks with the red base and it is the same casting and that's how I recieved it so I'm happy to leave it. I can always paint it up down the track.
Normk, I would prefer to go imperial so do you know the next size up? I believe it is BSW system.

I'm happy to hear you are going to stick with BSW so you will need a 5/16th BSW tap

If you're going to buy the tap anyway, it might be worth considering a Re-Coil 1/4-20BSW thread repair insert kit.
Not hugely more coin than a quality tap - have a look on FleaBay.

Edit: See later post in this thread for correct kit

I wonder if Coventry Fasteners or similar type of business would have that?

Well, all of the industrial bearing supply shops around here seem to carry them...

One thing that appeals is it will allow me to retain uniform size bolts and not have to drill out the holes in the steel cowl.
Can the coil exceed the depth of the work it's going into or does there have to be a dead end in the metal to limit turning?

Yep, they're a really good tool.

I have M6x1.0 and M8x1.25 Re-Coil kits, and also access to a larger range that my motorcycle mechanic owns.

The basic coil length is ~1.5x thread diameter, but 1x diameter coils are available.

They can be used in through holes; the coil tang, with which the installation tool engages, is broken off after installation.