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by maxwestern - 25/04/24 10:58 AM
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Joined: Feb 2017
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Hi, I'm pretty much restoring a Victa tilt edger, and have some questions, I've stripped it right down and the bore was pretty bad so I bought a 60thou over piston and I'm having it bored at the moment, the guy said I need to drill up one size on the jet, so first question is if I drill the jet will the plastic seat it sits in need to also be re-sized as it seems to look roughly the same size, also the idiot I bought it from had filled the seat hole with silicone, so it was totally blocked as he was holding the white plunger cap on with a self tapper, now whilst I was digging and poking the silicon out a small white coil/helicoil type thing came out with it ( from where the main jet sits ) is this a normal part as I broke it and threw it away, maybe about 4mm long and 3mm across. is it available or do I need to find a new body I've bought a complete carby kit, gasket kit, piston, gudgeon, rings, etc so hopefully I'll have a virtually new edger for less than $200 * re-bore is $100 because I've gone up 3 sizes and he has to bore it twicwe but the entire piston kit was only $26, edger $25, gaskets $8 and carby kit about $25, hope someone can help and sorry for the life story Thanks.
Last edited by Gadge; 19/03/17 07:13 PM. Reason: renamed for clarity
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842 Likes: 14
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Greetings Tiztom, and don't worry about the 'life story'! TMI [too much info] is always better than not enough, in this game. It's certain that you actually have an LM carby, as the G4 was only made for a year or so [Correction; three years - mid 1975 to late 1978] - and that was long before Victa brought out the first Tilt-a-Cut edger. As far as resizing the jet goes, I'm afraid your 'guy' is full of it. Totally unnecessary - after all, we sure ain't talking about a high specific power output racebike engine here. Like the Yam TZ350 donks my bike mech has built - 100hp @ the rear wheel! You can download a workshop manual excerpt on the carby from this page - Section 4; https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/54967I don't recognise the 'small helical part' you describe - it may be a 'stripped thread artifact', caused by the self-tapper, though.
Last edited by Gadge; 18/03/17 10:36 PM. Reason: correction as noted
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466 Likes: 143
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Hi Gadge, my grandson brought over a Victa, I guess a tilt edge cutter yesterday, I didn't look too closely at it but I think it has a G4, I will have a closer look today. Tiztom, the G4 is a good carby but with built in Victa faults but can be sorted into a brilliant carby
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466 Likes: 143
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Gadge, what is the story with these, were they any good, worth the trouble,dangerous, can you get cutting blades for them or are they just a curiosity item?
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842 Likes: 14
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G'day Norm, Yup, that's an early 160cc full-crank Victa Tilt-a-Cut edger; the later models had the PowerTorque engine. Some good threads on these TaC units are over in the ODK 'Edgers' section, too. They're a great edger, particularly when fitted with the 'segmented disc' cutting blade - which does a better job, as well as being much safer than the 'bar' type blade. This one: Well worth a little 'fettling'! I've actually been on the lookout for one of these [for cheap, of course] . But it looks like I'll be going the 'edging by brushcutter' route, after yesterday's bargainza pickup at the local Tip Shop; I dropped in there just to see what mowers etc. they had. We need an 'OPE Bargain Gloat' smiley for deals like this - a pair of Echo SRM200DB 22cc straight-shaft brushcutters, not missing any engine/frame parts, for $20 - the pair! One with a genuine Echo 250mm circular saw blade, the other with an incomplete nylon line cutter head. Both turn over easily, with good compression, too.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466 Likes: 143
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Excellent Gadge, I think he paid $15 for it, so I will get one of those segmented blades for it, has to be a lot safer. Glad you had a score there, sometimes things come to those who wait
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675 Likes: 164
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
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This tilt-a-cut edger is another example of Victa extending it's mileage with an engine cowl mould. In this case they employed the cowling from their long time utility and low arch models. Previous examples were the VC160 resin fibre base dress cowl later used exclusively on their self propelled "Auto Drive" models and then the use of the Impala/ VC Sports/ VC 125 mk III/ Victa Jet cover for their "Auto Drive" replacement, the Victa Self Propelled in 1978.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
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Joined: Feb 2017
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Thanks for the answers guys, weirdly mine has the pull start at the front of the engine and it pulls out to the right
Last edited by Gadge; 20/03/17 05:24 PM. Reason: localise image to ODK server
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842 Likes: 14
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G'day Tiztom, Nah, not weird really; that just means that yours is the 'late full crank' engine, with the 'side pull' geared starter. Almost certainly, it will have electronic ignition rather than mechanical contact points, too.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675 Likes: 164
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Normally that series motor was always mounted East West (head facing side), which is why the fixed side starter is located on the odd spot on your machine, as the motor is mounted north south instead. The motor and cowl setup on the machine that preceeds yours (see photo below), was normally mounted the same way as the TaC so the starter faced the rear as normal. I found the following pic via Google images showing the round blade Gadge mentioned.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
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Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 7
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Thanks, that pic above looks like it's got a tilt front wheel, maybe a wheel alignment is in order, so roughly how old is mine then? I've watched the video's of the guys re-building the carby and the only difference is the black cap on the outside where the white needle with a b c on it goes has no cap or adjuster like most that I've seen on the computer, is that the only difference?
Ignition - It has the curved coil on the side of the motor next to the pull starter and the same rubber cap next to the carby as the others I've seen on video where the pos and neg coming from it which I'll probably delete it with a switch even though I have new parts to replace the old one.
Last edited by Tiztom; 20/03/17 11:48 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675 Likes: 164
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1980- 1984 vintage for a full crank side starter electronic ignition yours is. G4 carburettor has grey knurled idle adjuster knob. Very similar LM hasn't got this idle knob. The poppet valve with A B C on it is normally white I believe, but the Vortex mower's version of the LM carb is modified with a black one instead and is aligned differently to the regular white poppet version on all other models. Early G4 carbs have ether no primer button, or a remote primer button situated away from the carburettor with a grey float chamber cap. I'm not sure whether the white float chamber cap with the integrated primer bulb was introduced mid way with the G4 or only came out with the LM carb in 1980.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466 Likes: 143
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
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I have detailed here previously on how to modify the G4 carb so it works with full throttle control and you are right, get rid of the stupid kill switch. You must either retain it in the carb(not the best idea) best fix is to tap and fit a 6mm bolt to prevent the cam turning too far and releasing the cable
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842 Likes: 14
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G'day folks, I'm not sure whether the white float chamber cap with the integrated primer bulb was introduced mid way with the G4 or only came out with the LM carb in 1980. It did come out with the first LM carbys, and the year was 1978, according to Victa TB No. M85. This past thread has a comprehensive collection of the G4 and LM carby Technical Bulletins from 1975, when the G4 came out, until 1978; https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=38908
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675 Likes: 164
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1978, that early! That link is gold. I have thoroughly enjoyed reading Mr Davis's contributions before.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
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Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 7
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Ok, mine has the white abc poppet valve, I'll study it up a bit more when the barrel is bored, prices ranged from $100 to $150 for the 60thou over bore as I think I said before he needs to bore it twice then hone it being a tight arse I went for the $100 cash guy Also as said before I have the later motor as it has a block which needs to be split to get to the crank whereas the one I saw on YouTube was I think accessible from the side???
Last edited by Tiztom; 21/03/17 09:53 AM.
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