OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Corvette Kill Switch

Hi guys,
I have a 2 stroke Victa Corvette 300 that had a problem with the carbie leaking around the inlet cap. This I fixed by installing a new needle, 'O' ring and did the diaphragm while I had it pulled down. Since refitting, the mower starts and runs well but won't stop. I'm guessing I've made some error when reassembling the kill switch assembly but can't find an exploded view of this area of the carbie. Can anyone help with some pics or descriptions.
P.S. I've read the posts on modifying the ramp etc but will only keep using this mower to keep the grass under control until we complete the property sale and move, so really don't have the time to fiddle with it. I may make it a project for a little later.

Tanx
Bob W

There are a couple of you tube videos showing the correct way to put back the stopper pins. One of them needs a tiny rubber sleeve over it before you re -insert it in. I successfully did it a couple of times but have now forgotten the fine details sI haven't done it with enough repetition to learn it down pat.
It really is a terrible design.

Hi Bob, the kill switch is one of those Victa brain fade moments, fitting a new rubber may help, often doesn't. Easiest thing if you don't have time to fiddle with it, and fiddle you will have to do, is either fit a remote kill switch, hang a wire from it somewhere to short out to the frame or just turn the fuel off and let it stop when it runs out. If you decide to fit a remote kill switch remember you must retain the 2 pins in the existing switch because if you remove them the cam can turn too far and the throttle cable will pop out and then it is a strip down to re-install it. It is the wire that goes through the side of the switch that you need to kill the coil

Thanks Mowerfreak,
I'll check out youtube. I didn't see what they looked like as they came out when I pulled the carbie off. But at least the mower runs well now and starts easy.

Bob W

Thanks also NormK,

I didn't know about replacing the rubber on the kill switch or I would have done that as well. I've never had any problem with the kill switch prior to this and we've had the mower for at least 20 years and was given to us by my father in law, so I have no idea how old it is. Actually this is the first time I've had to do anything other than replace the plug and air filter. Not bad for it's age, but then it's never had to work hard.
The main trouble now is we're 50Km's from our nearest spare parts outlet and a 100Km round trip for a rubber cap is a pain in the A****E.
Might have to wait until the next shopping trip.

Cheers
Bob W

Just watched the youtube videos. Looks easy but I'll have to get the parts first as my cap is 'cactus'.
Will keep pulling the spark lead off for now.

Cheers Bob W

Bob, the kill switches seem fine until you have to pull the carby apart and then the fun begins with them. It is not so much the rubber boot but the rubber the cam comes up against that allows the switch to rock and make contact

Thanks NormK.

I ended up replacing both the cap and the cover 'boot' and all now seems to be working well. I don't seem to have much throttle control but watched a youtube vid that showed the need to replace the 'O' rings on the manifold, carbie and the starter to combat any air leaks so will try this when I get the parts next time I'm in town. I was going to buy from Outdoorking online but haven't been able to register for an account.

Hi Bob, not very often I find problems with the "O" rings. Glad your switch works, some seem to work, others won't no matter how hard I try. Pretty much given up on them, waste of time, as are the float needles