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#79482 24/11/16 03:36 AM
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5
Treb Offline OP
Novice
I previously replaced factory bump head with a "Real Easy" head. and all was good.Recently, the head has not been spinning fast enough to feed out line, let alone trim grass. With the motor at full revs the head doesnt spin fast enough.This machine has no clutch.Just put a new bent shaft assembly on and got the same result. I checked the drive end (motor) and cant see any wear.Anyone tell me if the drive coupling on the motor can break?

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Treb #79485 24/11/16 04:55 AM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,466
Likes: 143
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
So do you know how the drive gets from the motor to the shaft, this is where you will need to look

Treb #79494 24/11/16 06:23 AM
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 194
Apprentice level 2
Hi Treb. Does it sound like the trimmer still reaches full speed (hi rpm) or does it feel down on power in general. You may be in need of a tune up for hi rpm rather than a issues with the drive mech. Cheers

NormK #79789 06/12/16 10:43 PM
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5
Treb Offline OP
Novice
Hi Norm,thanks for replying.
It is the simplest of designs. End of the crank has a sleeve with a square hole (have had a good look, its not worn). The flexible drive shaft then goes to a coupling on the head end.The flex drive and and its housing are new. I have been thinking that maybe the flex drive is moving back away from the head end,but once its put together there's no way to check.The hex drive a the head end is new, the head coupling is good.The old flex shaft is stuck inside the housing. I"m going to cut the old housing apart just to see whats inside at the head end.

rusty.ute #79790 06/12/16 10:47 PM
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5
Treb Offline OP
Novice
Hi Rusty.Yeah the thing runs quite good.Starts OK and will rev its bum out.

Treb #79815 08/12/16 12:16 AM
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5
Treb Offline OP
Novice
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
Hi again Norm. Pics explain better than I can.

Treb #79848 09/12/16 11:27 AM
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,487
Likes: 23
AVB Offline
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
That coupler looks to be worn out.

Here is what that coupler should look like. Part suppliers here in the USA are saying the part is NLA but I still got one in stock at my shop hence I was able to snap an image of it. PN 638092001 > Homelite 98795A)
[Linked Image from i1329.photobucket.com]

Last edited by AVB; 09/12/16 11:32 AM.
AVB #80001 14/12/16 09:24 AM
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5
Treb Offline OP
Novice
Hi AVB,
Thanks for the reply and the pic.I have ordered a coupling(hoping it will fix the problem). Your pic makes me feel a lot better.Any tips on the changeover? Does this piece come off separately or will it loosen the magneto and potentially stuff the timing? Thanks again.

Treb #80004 14/12/16 01:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,487
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AVB Offline
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
It does hold the flywheel but if your are careful on removal the flywheel should stay stuck to the crankshaft. Most times I need to use a flywheel knocker to loosen the flywheel. Many newer flywheels have build in keys so be careful either way.

The easiest way to remove it is to use a piston stop. I didn't look to see if it is left or right hand thread though. You should be able verify this on the new part before removing the old one. I'm Thinking it is right hand but not sure.


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