OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Ride-On Mowers Kingcat Ride-on Mowers

hi been awhile since my last post,i have picked up an old kingcat cheetah 700 and want to "fix er up"any info would be great,11 hp b&s i/c it's rough but will keep me busy,i need a lead on some parts,and need to rewire ignition, wire is melted,need governor spring the long one that goes over the linkage,will keep you posted,



have a good day

Hi gml, to rewire the ignition there is not a lot you can do unless you are talking about the starter motor wiring as I can see the pull start is broken. The next problem you will come up against is you will probably find the stator is toast so you won't be able to charge the battery for the starter motor, not that this is a big problem, it is just something to be aware of

G'day gml,

You can download an Owners Manual and Parts List from http://web.archive.org/web/20141006150849/http://www.kingcat.co.nz/index.asp?pageID=2145897474

This Kiwi mob may still have Kingcat parts, according to their website http://mes.sygnal.com/rideons/

I picked up a Kingcat Puma 1100 a while back which had a 12HP with a broken conrod which I swapped out for a 10.5 I had laying around. The 12HP looks pretty much the same as the motor you have there and I don't intend to rebuild it so if you can post pictures of the parts you need I can probably supply them for you.

thank's Norm,it's the wire's to and from the key switch that are melted,maybe they aren't that important,i had it running albeit screaming its guts out had to smother it to kill it,pull start is missing completely,don't know about stator yet,Gadge thank you i'm on it. aussietrev i may take you up on it once i work out what's what...today i threw some paint i had at it and it smartened it up like a diamond in a goats arse, will post some pics soon

Bit late to tell you now gml but it is a good idea to know where the magneto kill wire is and that it is going to earth out if you need to shut the motor down in a hurry, or pliers to get the plug wire off.

thank's Norm,some question's if i may,where to start looking at reasons engine wants to race no matter were throttle is set,carb has been pulled down and cleaned,..the long skinny governor spring is broken would that be a problem?also two wires coming from underneath(from trans i think) go to solenoid are they a cut out of sorts? thank's

gml, the throttle butterfly is fully open for some reason, most likely the missing governor spring is the cause. No idea what the wires are for without looking at it

Going by the parts list, there's a neutral switch - that would be wired in series with the solenoid coil, to prevent it being started in gear.

Throttles are normally fully open when the engine is not running and then are pushed closed by the governor as the revs come up so if your governor is not connected properly then it will rev flat out. The throttle cable doesn't control the butterfly directly, rather it sets a limit to how far the governor can retard the revs. At least that's my understanding of how these things work. I could be wrong of course, I often am.

thank's again every one,i had it running today and its blowing white smoke,will muck around with again soon at least i know it cuts and the gearbox work's,i am going to rewire ignition switch and do a few more things soon,
look's ok from 50 foot

Flash as a rat with a gold tooth.

guy's what causes the governor arm to flutter back and forward ?

Have you put a spring on it? Because the spring is there to prevent hunting of the governor so if you haven't replaced that it could be your problem.

have got a spring coming hope that is the problem aussietrev,i cant get my head around how that spring work's.we will see, thank's

Hi gml, how did you get on with this one, I'm just putting a motor on one I have here, bit of a dogfight to get at the front left engine bolt. They look like a very rugged well built machine that will not fall to bits like the modern stuff

This is wrong. The whole purpose of a governor system is to maintain a steady desired rpm. They are intentionally designed to hunt for the selected desired speed.

Sounds like someone needs a lesson of governor operations. The spring pulls the governor toward full throttle position and mechanical governor pushes the governor arm toward idle. It is a balancing act and as you throttle up the spring applies more tension on governor arm as to overcome the governor trying slow down the engine. Without the governor spring with proper working governor the engine would only idle.

With a Briggs and many other engines with mechanical governors the first thing you do when you have hunting is to hold the throttle vane steady to see if the engine runs steady or starts to die or accelerates. If it stays steady then you check the static governor adjustment; otherwise, it more likely a fuel delivery problem or air leak.

The reason a static adjustment is indicated by surging if not fuel related is the play between the governor push pin and governor cross shaft arm. You are wanting zero clearance between these two parts. Governor flyweights pivots do wear out so it can come a time that governor will need replacing even when static adjustment is correct.

Governor spring rates are chosen for particular sensitivity with lighter spring rates typically usually used on generators where minimum rpms variance from unloaded to loaded (smaller Governor Droop) is critical for output Hertz to be stable.

gml, the spring you are missing is the "anti-flutter" spring. because the holes in the governor and throttle shaft are fairly large to allow the "Z" link in the rod to slip into place, the lighter spring is slipped on the wire (shaft) then connected, this holds the assembly steady. I would post a pic but am not at home right now.

On the one I am working on in the wiring loom it seems like the charge wire goes to the ignition switch which once the ignition is turned on gives contact between the stator and the battery? As the switch is also missing, this is what I assume needs to happen?, Where is the rectifier is it inside the fly wheel with the stator?

Ok so what I have on this motor is a single wire stator and being that it is A/C only. Does anybody know what sort of rectifier I need to convert this to D/C?

G'day folks,

Norm, the charging rectifier on these Briggs is often just a single diode in the engine wiring harness, external to the engine. Sometimes in the charging wire connector, other times just inline and protected by heatshrink tubing. Otherwise it will be an externally mounted module, which will be fairly obvious.

You may find the downloadable owner/parts manuals at http://www.agriquip.co.nz/about-us/product-manuals useful, as well as the ones on the archived Kingcat site at <http://web.archive.org/web/20141006150849/http://www.kingcat.co.nz/index.asp?pageID=2145897474> - need to copy and paste this one into your browser's address field.

Unfortunately, Kingcat don't seem to have been good at providing wiring diagrams!

Thanks Gadge, the wiring here is for a 2 wire stator which was then wired to the D/C wire back to the ignition switch. The replacement motor is a single wire stator and I don't have any of the other wiring or the diode. Not sure if I can swap the stators over or if either of them work.

Maybe these docs will help in IDing what you need.

Briggs Alternator specs
Briggs Alternator visual ID chart

Hi AVB, yes I have read all that info, what I don't understand is what diode they use and what it actually does. Is it the fact that alternating current is travelling back and forth and fitting a diode allows it to only travel in one direction, therefore becoming a direct current, or is this simplifying it too much?

Pretty much what it does except it will be a pulsing DC current and voltage. It take full filtering to become pure DC. The output voltage will about .707 of RMS input voltage. This is called half wave rectification. Most Briggs AC single wire stators will be only capable of about 3 amps DC though there is regulator that can be added that will get you to 5 amps. Without the regulator you will only need a 4A 200PIV diode. Larger current rating for diode is okay just gives a larger safety margin. The surge current rating is much larger than the continuous rating mention above. When installing the diode the anode goes to the stator side and the cathode goes on the battery side; otherwise you will get a negative DC output.

Just remember to insulated things once assembled to prevent shorts.

With this being basically using to recharge the battery I would not worry about it pulsing as many battery chargers does the same thing. This why my 12V 5A solar panel charges a battery just as quick as my 10A battery charger.

Thanks AVB, I think I am getting my head around it now, even though charging the battery is probably not that important I just want to know how it all works

My current issue with this now is trying to find blades, seems like the Kingcat is not too popular out there, looks like I will have to get longer blades and cut them down, no big deal I guess.
Another issue I am having with this is the governor is not functioning and this is allowing the butterfly to start to open and this increases the revs and it won't drop back to idle. I'm not sure how it is supposed to work, it all looks to be in place. Also on these carbies I think the butterfly shaft is prone to wear although I don't think this is the problem here.
Avb, speaking with my son tonight he wanted me to test the single wire for volts. AC volts sort of around 4 volts DC volts climed to 19 volts before it would shut the meter down and start again, sort of start at 3 volts and climb to 19

For the governor you need to check the static adjustment. Basically you rotate the throttle butterfly to wide open while watching the governor arm and note the direction to moves. Then you loosen the retainer on the arm and continue rotating the cross shaft in the same direction until it stops. At which time you lock the retainer back in place. These cross shafts do get out of adjustment anytime one loosens the retainer. Once you get this adjusted try running the engine if it still accelerate uncontrollably check to see you are get any push back from the governor. If none then the governor has failed.

As for testing the alternator (stator) output there is good list of voltages that you should expect in the Briggs Repairman's Handbook manual for the pre-1981 engines. Note this file is about 21 megs.

Briggs Repairman Handbook 1919-1981

I guess the simple and cheapest answer here is a $20 trickle charger and keep the battery topped up

G'day Norm,
If you have the Cheetah with the 700mm/28" cutter deck, blades are available - the GA Spares BLS3603 type. A Google on that part number will bring up a few sellers.

The OEM type blades, P/No 750543 [flat] or 750556 [fluted] are still available in NZ, and these pages have the blade dimensions and pics;
https://justparts.co.nz/PS-5b3781/product/15-1398-Blade-Pair https://justparts.co.nz/PS-5b3781/product/15-1399-Blade-Pair

All fixed now Gadge, I went up to the mower shop in Narre Warren and got Cox ones that fit perfectly